I know what the FSM says, 3/4 full, what does that come out too when I order grease from Amazon? 3 tubes, 6 tubes, a case?
Rebuilding knuckles over Christmas Break, how much grease do I need to source? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Rusty Marlin
- Start date
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MrMikeyG
SILVER Star
Get a case. You can't fit all that in there, but shoot its hard to brag about how much grease you have without it.
- Thread starter
- #4
Hey baby, I got a case of moly tubes and box of rubber gloves, wanna grease my....
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Knuckles?
Edited:
I think 4 tubs (or tubes) will be sufficient. (28-32 oz per side based on all the comments)
Thanks guys.
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Knuckles?
Edited:
I think 4 tubs (or tubes) will be sufficient. (28-32 oz per side based on all the comments)
Thanks guys.
Last edited:
REKCUT
SILVER Star
2 tubes per side as stated. I use John Deere moly cause they keep it in stock down the street
2 14oz. tubes of Moly grease per side to be exact. My first rebuild I did I bought 4 6 oz. tubes by mistake and ended up getting rust on the top portion of the swivel ball by the trunion race due to lack of grease.
Then a tub of wheel bearing grease for the hub bearings and races.
Then a tub of wheel bearing grease for the hub bearings and races.
Pick up two rolls or blue shop towels, I like the ones Kimberly Clarke make. It is a lot easier to throw them away as you clean. Also pick up to axle c-clips that hold the birf to the axle. Most times they break when you take the birf off to clean and take all the balls out to inspect. That is the only way to rebuild them and allows you to check for excessive wear in the bell and on the balls.
I wouldn’t bother taking the cv off the inner axle shaft unless you knew you had an issue, or wanted to run them the other way. 
If there are no signs of a issue, it’s fine to just wipe off the old grease and force the old sludge out of the Birfield with new grease. Then give them a little kiss, and slam them back home.
If there are no signs of a issue, it’s fine to just wipe off the old grease and force the old sludge out of the Birfield with new grease. Then give them a little kiss, and slam them back home.
^ key step!
Hi, I pick up one approx. 1/2 gallon plastic tub of grease. Mike
It’s a good idea to always separate the birfs from the axles. Not only for not contaminating the new grease with the old but also the fact that not all grease is compatible with one another. With a little practice it’s not so bad. And just wipe out the joints. Using an aggressive cleaner can leave behind a residue which can inhibit lubrication initially and cause clicking
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
@Rusty Marlin im doing mine now. I’m in a bad spot as my rig at 250k has never had it done. Grease, 2 containers of valvoline moly (gray kind) 1 tub of Lucas red n tacky for the bearings. Use full synthetic... And guess what? If the inner seal has failed and you pull the birf, your going to have the yucky soup which means you’ll need 3 quarts of 80w-90 gl5 gear oil. Don’t forget to replace the diff fill and drain plugs and gaskets. Mine looked like crap.
the hardest part is the brake caliper lol
the hardest part is the brake caliper lol
Two rolls?????
Try ten, some great gloves, some good hand cleaner, a galleon of degreaser, and some clothes at Goodwill to throw away afterward!
And yes, extra C-clips for the axles.
Haha i didn't even use two whole rolls of paper towels. But i did buy a spatula and some turkey pans so i think that limited it a good bit. Goodwill clothes is a good idea too.
Cans of brake clean get some, a bunch. Might as well just get a case
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Answered my own question lol
oh here are some photos of the original races I just knocked out with my brass punch. Bottom one is from the left knuckle. Did take me about 30 mins. The bottom race has deep gouges and the bearing basically crumbled out. Complete failure I am thinking.
can someone confirm if KOYO is the OEM brand from new? Trying to determine if this was replaced in the last 20 years or so, but probably not
oh here are some photos of the original races I just knocked out with my brass punch. Bottom one is from the left knuckle. Did take me about 30 mins. The bottom race has deep gouges and the bearing basically crumbled out. Complete failure I am thinking.
can someone confirm if KOYO is the OEM brand from new? Trying to determine if this was replaced in the last 20 years or so, but probably not
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Or a bucket of gasoline...
About to dive into this myself for the first time.
Question: re: the 2 x 14oz. moly per side. Does this take into account loading up the trunnion bearings too? I spent the time last night to prepack all the bearings and store them in zip lock bags in advance. For the 4 trunnion bearings I use about a 1/4 tube (of which about 1/4 of that ended up on me and the bench and the cat and my beer). Does this mean I'm 1/4 tube shy for packing the knuckles, or am I cool? (I have more moly on hand, just don't want to over pack the joint, actually sounds like I'm about to host a rave)
...and yes, I used a different grease for the wheel bearings.
Question: re: the 2 x 14oz. moly per side. Does this take into account loading up the trunnion bearings too? I spent the time last night to prepack all the bearings and store them in zip lock bags in advance. For the 4 trunnion bearings I use about a 1/4 tube (of which about 1/4 of that ended up on me and the bench and the cat and my beer). Does this mean I'm 1/4 tube shy for packing the knuckles, or am I cool? (I have more moly on hand, just don't want to over pack the joint, actually sounds like I'm about to host a rave)
...and yes, I used a different grease for the wheel bearings.
