Rebuild of 4-Speed and Transfer Case (3 Viewers)

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Started the bearing on the output end of the shaft onto the shaft and the case, then installed the input shaft. Seated the output end bearing against the snap ring and the case and the put the rear bearing cover/adapter plate to hold the shaft and bearing and hot bolted. Then started input shaft and bearing in the input end of the case and lined up the shafts so that the internal needle bearings road up onto the output shaft journal. Then seated the input shaft bearing in the case. I removed the rear bearing cover and installed the front bearing cover and tapped the output bearing and shaft forward to finish seating.

Checked the rotation with the reverse idler gear out of mesh as the bearings were seated.
ROTATION CHECK AS THE BEARNGS WERE BEING SEATED.jpg


Rear bearing cover on for seating the input shaft
REAR BEARING COVER INSTALLED TO SEAT THE INPUT SHAFT AND BEARING.jpg


Rear bearing cover removed again

REAR BEARING COVER REMOVED AGAIN.jpg


Front bearing cover removed and bearings seated

FRONT BEARING COVER REMOVED AGAIN.jpg
 
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The manual shows a transmission with a PTO cover that is convenient to support the counter shaft to line it up to install the bearings. The 1978 version does not have a PTO cover so it was interesting getting the shaft, bearings and case all aligned.

I found the shift lever and hot bolted the shift tower and checked the shifter and it was shifting through the 4 forward gears and the reverse.

TESTED THE SHIFTER.jpg


Painted the shifter cover

PAINTED THE SHIFTER COVER.jpg

Does the rear bearing cover help to seat the bearings?
It was the only way to hold one end at a time to seat the opposite end. I had to seat the input shaft onto the main shaft and push the main shaft through the output bearing against the thrust washer. I don't have SST 09309-3603 that must thread to the output shaft and has a tube to set against the inner race and the all thread can pull the input shaft as the nut is turned.

SPECIAL TOOL FOR PULLING THE MAIN SHAFT THROUGH THE OUTPUT BEARING.jpg
 
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Once I have the snap rings installed on the counter shaft everything locked up. I removed all the gears from the box and had to go back to work in AZ.

I got back home last Friday and new gaskets arrived today, so I went out and cleaned the ultra black from the box and the bearing covers.

I put the rear race on the counter shaft again and set it in the box and put in the input and output shafts back in the case with the bearings.

Made sure that all 17 needle bearings were back in the input shaft. Made sure the synchro ring was in place on the input end.

Ended up putting the front bearing cover on to hold the front bearing in place while tapping the rear bearing into the bore.

Then, once the output shaft was started into the inner race of the bearing I set up a series of spacers including the input and PTO gears so that I could pull the shaft through the bearing with the nut and impact wrench.

The manual shows a special tool that I don't have so I improvised with what I had available.

PULLING CONFIGURATION FOR GETTING THE OUTPUT SHAFT PULLED INTO THE BEARING RACE (2).jpg
 
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I spent most of the afternoon getting the gear train right yesterday. The two shafts were crowding each other and would not spin freely of each other in neutral.

I pulled the counter shaft bearings again to drop the shaft away from the main and output shafts and starting checking.

One problem that kept happening while getting the output shaft and bearing seated was the thrust washer was coming off of the pin in the shaft. And the washer and shaft would not pull up against the inner race of the bearing. See 12 and 13 in the photo below. I found that if it came off of the pin you can't see the slot in the washer from above looking into the case at 1st gear, but you can see the pin if you have the shaft rolled around to is is at 12:00. So the last time I pulled the rear bearing to get the thrust washer out I put it in the vice and used a file to mark the location of the slot on the edge of the washer.




THRUST WASHER AND PIN.jpg
Then, as I pulled the shaft into the inner race of the bearing I used a screwdriver to pry against the thrust washer to keep it against 1st gear and on the pin for as long as I had room for the screwdriver.

Once that end was solved I was still having the crowding issues with the input shaft in place and while using the bearing cover and the bolts to press the bearing into the bore I was watching when the shafts would lock up. I could not close the cover with a gasket between the cover and the gear case. I also noticed that as the two shafts got closer it would start to chunk as the shafts were turned independently then lock up.

I pulled the input shaft back out and found that the synchro ring had wedged its self onto the input shaft so it could not line up with the 3 keys inside the clutch hub and that was causing the clunking noise. The synchro ring has notches that match those 3 keys held in by the snap rings and the ring has pressed onto the input shaft and was not able to engage the keys. Taking out all the clearance.

CLUTCH HUB SNAP RING INSTALLED AND FITS.jpg



Here is a photo of the ring seated on the keys.

CLUTCH HUB SYNCRO 1.jpg



I put assembly grease on the ring again and put it in place again and lined up with the keys.

I installed the input shaft and was able to tap the bearing all the way to the snap ring and the clearance was good to prevent crowding the two shafts and they both turn freely in neutral. All 4 bearings are seated in the gearbox with the required snap rings.

This a link to a great video by Terrain Tamer that even talks about these two problems.

 
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Had a busy day closing up the gear box.

Put aviation Permatex on the front bearing cover because it is more controllable than the Ultra Black Permatex and didn't want to block any oil passages.

FRONT BEARING COVER WITH AVATION PERTEX FOR GASKET.jpg



Torqued the front bearing cover and check to see that both shaft turned independently

TORQUED THE FRONT BEARING COVER.jpg



REAR BEARING COVER WITH AVATION PERMATEX.jpg



Rear bearing cove with the gasket and aviation Permatex torqued and setting up. Checked again to make sure the shafts turned independently

REAR BEARING COVER WITH GASKET AND ENOUGH BOLTS TO LET THE AVATION PERMATES SET UP.jpg
 
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Both covers installed and the shift cover, and checked the shifter it shifted in all 4 forward gears and reverse. In neutral both shafts turned independently.

BOTH COVERS ON AND THE SHIFT COVER INSTALLED TO TEST THE SHIFTER.jpg


Gear box ready for the shifter cover gasket

READY FOR THE SHIFT COVER GASKET.jpg


Gear cover gasket

SHIFTER COVER GASKET IN PLACE.jpg


The shift tower ready for the gasket

SHIFT TOWER READY FOR THE GASKET.jpg
 
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Shift tower gasket in place

SHIFT TOWER GASKET IN PLACE.jpg



Shift tower springs in place

SHIFT TOWER SPRINGS IN PLACE.jpg



Shift tower in place

SHIFT TOWER IN PLACE.jpg



I bought 1/2" all thread because it fits in the metric and English nuts on the board at ACE hardware and the 18 TPH is the same as the metric bolts, but I found out that the 1/2" is larger than the bolts and would not thread into the transmission as I had planned. But the rear cover was deep enough that it worked any but would have been nice to use nuts to pull the transfer case up. I stacked 2x6 pieces under the transmission to get it up high enough.

TRANSMISSION AND TRANSFER CASE LINED UP WITH  ALL THREAD.jpg



I also kept checking the manual for which of the two spacers went between the rear bearing and the transfer case gear first and the photos you can tell so I had a 50-50 chance to get it wrong and I had the longest spacer against the bearing. So got to do it twice.

I do not know how anyone can do this with the transmission bolted to the bell housing under the truck because you have to have the transfer case far enough away from the transmission to get the input gear and the PTO gear on the spines. The 18" all thread was just right to accomplish this.

I was surprised that the PTO gear would go on the splines because when I used it to pull the output shaft with the nut on the end it was so tight on the splines that it was hard to line up and get it to start. I would then use a puller to get it back off the shaft.
 
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With persuasion the TC and the gears were pushed to the transmission until the 3 long bolts would engage in the threads on the transmission the bolts pulled it up smoothly with taps on the PTO gear to follow on the splines. I should have gotten metric all thread and I would have been able to use nuts to push the transfer case to the transmission. The new output bearing is sitting there ready to install after the spacer sleeve was used to push the input and PTO gears up against the spacer in the rear bearing cover of the transmission.

TC PULLED UP TO THE TRANSMISSION WITH THE LONG BOLTS.jpg



New bearing and final bearing installed
NEW BEARING AND FINAL BEARING INSTALLED ON THE OUTPUT SHAFT.jpg
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Bearing seated and the nut torqued
Then the nut was staked before installing the bearing cover

BEARING FULLY SEAT AND THE SPACER SLEEVE NUT AND WASHER IN PLACE AND TORQUED.jpg


Bearing cover installed with a gasket and aviation Permitex

REAR BEARING COVER INSTALLED WITH GASKET AND AVATION PERMATEX.jpg


After torquing the two internal bolts in the TC
 
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I was not sleeping well last night because the input and output shafts would not turn independently, but the shifter would shift into all the forward gears and reverse. Today I cleaned and installed the TC shifter and checked the function and when turning the output rear flange on the TC it was locked up.

I started to pull the TC again, but decided to just pull the shifter cover and look inside the transmission and have a look and I was able to turn the shafts but not independently. I looked at the front synchro hub and that same synchro ring was just slightly out of place and with a screw drive popped it back into place and put the cover back on and put the shift lever in place and it shifted fine and was able to rotate the gear train and in neutral the shafts were free to rotate independently.

Bolted the shifter cover back down and checked the shifting gain everything was good.

Installed the TC Shifter and checked the function 2H, 4H, N and 4L all functions with the 4 speeds in the transmission

COMPLETE AND FUNCTIONS ALL GEARS OF THE TRANSMISSION AND TC (2).jpg


Ready to use the John Deer to get it off the table and onto a pallet to ship
 

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