rebuild.......maybe

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First of all, I'd like to compliment you guys on a great site. Very informative.

What I need to know and/or get opinions on, is where is the best place to get rebuild kit for a 1975 2F? I did a compression check this weekend and all cylinders were in the 60-75 psi range. I am hoping that it is just leaky valves, but I fear the worst. So, I am trying to find out what the whole shebang will set me back. I would rather keep the 2F, but if it is cost prohibitive, then I'll swap in a 350. I have found a couple of rebuild kits, but they are in the $1100 range. I was thinking that you guys could hopefully point me in a bit cheaper direction.

Thanks in advance
Tony
 

woody

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Check the Vendor corner on here and the vendor listing at http://www.tlca.org. Should get you quite a few options for suppliers.

HOWEVER, cheap rebuild kits are just that...cheap. I know quite a few people recommended the OEM Toyota head gasket because the quality of aftermarkets is questionable...would suck to get it all installed and blow a head gasket the first week...

I've done VERY cheap rebuilds on my 350's before, but tend to do them every 3-4 years....and yes, I've had bad gaskets before...very irritating to get it all done, fire it up, and have a leaking head gasket...pull the gasket, see no visible problems, replace with a different one, and it works....VERY irritating...lol
 
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i bought my rebuild parts from Pacific lift - seemed to be OEM quality and the entire rebuild kit was about $600-700
 

Poser

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[quote author=pvaman link=board=1;threadid=9645;start=msg85222#msg85222 date=1073359070]
i bought my rebuild parts from Pacific lift - seemed to be OEM quality and the entire rebuild kit was about $600-700
[/quote]

What did this include?
 
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Tony. No insult intended but do you believe the compression
readings you were getting? I've never seen them this low
on a running engine. Are they all really within 10 psi of
one another? This might indicate a bad compression tester.

As I recall, a compression test must be completed with all
of the spark plugs out and with the throttle blocked open ---
otherwise, artifically low results.
 
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I rebuild a lot of F series motors. Just a few observations

Machine shops make money off selling you the parts.

If they sell you the parts they warrentee them.

If you provide the parts, and they go bad, it is your issue.

Machine shops buy way below jobber cost. This allows them to resell at either jobber (good) or just under retail (bad) Nothing wrong asking the shop what they will charge you. Many times it will be less than the "kit" you find.

Lifters are very expensive and you need them with a new cam. CCOT usually has good prices on them. Anything more that $12 a lifter is too much.

Before you can order a kit you need the specs on the new parts. The machine shop will need to tear it down, machine it then tell you what size bearings, pistons etc... you will need. It adds a step into the process. Quite often it will push your motor to the back of the line or let the project fall into the hands of another machiniests who did not do the original work.

What I do is drop the short block off intact. Then I tell them to fix it. Then a week or so later I pick it up. I only pay an hour or so in labor to have them assemble the short block. Saves me time and it becomes their issue if there is any problem down the road.

Contact me direct if you need more info
 

cruiseroutfit

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[quote author=dd113 link=board=1;threadid=9645;start=msg85248#msg85248 date=1073360414]...What I do is drop the short block off intact. Then I tell them to fix it. Then a week or so later I pick it up. I only pay an hour or so in labor to have them assemble the short block. Saves me time and it becomes their issue if there is any problem down the road....[/quote]

Same thing we have been doing for 10+ years, they have literally done 100's of 2Fs... Hence then reason I don't have any pricing on rebuild kits, I just let them handle it from the get go. In fact we have core engines and heads sitting in their storage, I can just call up and have them start on one of the motors, that way there is little downtime int he process.

My vote is with Dave, let the machine shop source the good stuff if it is feasable... Makes them alot happier too!
 
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Thanks for all the input, guys. I am going to check a few more things before I commit to any major expense.

rgentry, I was going on my somewhat limited knowledge when I did the compression check, and I was not aware of that. I will be doing it that way before I do anything else, though. I did find it peculiar though that everything would be worn that much and still have even readings, let alone run. Hopefully, it will check out better and I will not have to do much more work to it. (other than wiring, brakes, interior, top, and about everything else)

Dave, if I indeed have to go the rebuild route, I'll be taking your advice. Thanks for the experience and info.

Thanks again everyone, I'm sure I'll be leaning on you in the future for some more help. This site is such a great resource. Most of what I know about Cruisers I learned here.
 
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Poser -- sorry it took me so long to respond. Here's the kit includes

oversized pistons (mine .040)
rings
main bearing set
thrush washer set
rod bearind set
cam bearing set
freeze plugs
intake and exhause value guides
oil pump
gasket set

The nice thing about these guys is that they seem to supply by and large OEM parts -- Nippon, Aisin, ...

I've also bought cam and crank sprockets + cam from them and their prices were very good.
 
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[quote author=rgentry link=board=1;threadid=9645;start=msg85240#msg85240 date=1073359957]
Tony. No insult intended but do you believe the compression
readings you were getting? I've never seen them this low
on a running engine. Are they all really within 10 psi of
one another? This might indicate a bad compression tester.

As I recall, a compression test must be completed with all
of the spark plugs out and with the throttle blocked open ---
otherwise, artifically low results.

I would have to second this. Low compression on an old engine would not be a surprise if it was a couple cylinders, but it sounds very much like there is something giving you low readings since they are so consistant. As mentioned, be sure throttle is wide open when doing the test.
[/quote]
 
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Dang I can't remember the name of the place but it's in Spokane WA, they do a great 2f rebuild for something like $1500 and have super cheap shiping(pick up and drop at your door), I wanna says it's Ram something. I know of 2 guys that have used them and are super happy.
 

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