Rear window washer tubing (1 Viewer)

[STF]

Hi all,

New to this forum but love the 60 series. My rear tailgate (FJ62) washer tubing/fittings are leaking and need to be fixed. Has anyone done this and is is easy? Or is it easier to feed some new tube directly from the pump through the top door some how and totally ignore the tubing that is already there? Whats the thoughts?

 

[Old Nick]

Hi all,

New to this forum but love the 60 series. My rear tailgate (FJ62) washer tubing/fittings are leaking and need to be fixed. Has anyone done this and is is easy? Or is it easier to feed some new tube directly from the pump through the top door some how and totally ignore the tubing that is already there? Whats the thoughts?

Howdy, and welcome!

You can use aquarium tubing as a replacement for the worn out tubing.

Yes, you can snake the new tubing into place by attaching it to the old tubing. As you gently pull the old tubing the new tubing will follow.

My rear wiper isn't working at the moment, but I'm planning to get it sorted out and snake new tubing while I'm at it.

Take it easy.

 

[4Cruisers]

I did this on my '86 FJ60 build using the FJ62 donor vehicle's rear lift gate. The tubing runs alongside the power door lock wiring and IIRC it's taped together for part if its length. You have to disconnect the power door lock wiring connector down by the motor, then pull the tubing/wiring back out through the top of the lift gate. Don't forget to tape a string or wire to the bottom end of the tubing/wiring so you can easily fish the new tubing and wiring back down through the lift gate. Where the tubing/wiring exits the top of the lift gate, and along the top of the lift gate opening, you'll have to remove the plastic strip and peel back the headliner to gain access. The glue is usually pretty so it'll take some patience to peel the headliner back withoiut tearing it.

 

[4Cruisers]

Howdy, and welcome!

You can use aquarium tubing as a replacement for the worn out tubing.

Yes, you can snake the new tubing into place by attaching it to the old tubing. As you gently pull the old tubing the new tubing will follow.

My rear wiper isn't working at the moment, but I'm planning to get it sorted out and snake new tubing while I'm at it.

Take it easy.

Does your '88 have the rear lift gate power door lock?

 

[OSS]

Does anyone actually need a rear window sprayer? I never used mine in 30 years.

 

[4Cruisers]

Does anyone actually need a rear window sprayer? I never used mine in 30 years.

I used the sprayer in my '84 FJ60 for years, when I was driving on slush covered roads in the mountains of northern New Mexico.

 

[Old Nick]

Does your '88 have the rear lift gate power door lock?

No. Mine’s manual… simplifies things a bit

 

[Ian Crawford]

Does anyone actually need a rear window sprayer? I never used mine in 30 years.

I need to run new tubing for mine, I think it would be helpful but by no means is it a necessity.

 

[TheNeek]

I did the aquarium tubing on my truck. Link below (towards the end of that post). Sprayer works well now and have actually used it before. Works much better when the truck sprays the fluid on the rear window and not inside the rear hatch. LOL

Builds - Red Dawn (60 converted 62 Build Thread w/ R2.8)

What a good looking truck and like the many new parts you're adding. I'm curious on what you're cleaning with Lye. I did not know what it was when reading the above post and googled it. That's some really strong stuff I used to use it to strip anodizing off aluminum, super strong stuff, works...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[WoodnotRust]

I just ran new 1/4" vinyl tubing (0.17" ID) bought at Ace Hardware without having to pull the headliner. Buy a total of 12-13' of tubing. Disconnect old tubing at both ends (nozzle and pump). Behind the small (two hole) cover plate at passenger side of lift gate, cut the tubing on the pump side of the blue check valve and disconnect the wiring in the same area. Replace old tubing that runs to the nozzle now so you retain the directionality of the check valve.

Remove the rubber boot on the passenger side and gently pull out wiring and tubing from the lift gate. These are likely taped together so remove the tape. The wiring runs behind the passenger side rear vent and these need to be fully separated from each other.

Now, remove the rear cargo light. Hopefully you'll see the old tubing there and you can use a stiff wire with a hook to fish it out from the passenger side a few inches until you can see the white male-male union. Remove the union so the two old ends of tubing are hanging out of the dome light. Put the union on the cut end (the one from the check valve) and then gently pull the old tubing on the passenger side out until the new tubing shows. Cut new tubing on passenger side to length and now do the drivers side.

From the drivers side rear vent, pull out the old tubing up from the pump and then reach up and hopefully you'll find the tubing is free and you can pull the old with new attached using the same union. When the new tubing comes out, then remove the union and be sure to connect new-to-new behind the dome light. It's easy from there,.

Inspect the passenger side wires and thread both tubing and wires through the rubber boot as you are putting it back together.

Note: I had a broken wire near that boot, so I cut both wires and then inserted them from the two-hole cover side. That made it a lot easier than trying to push the connector through the boot and then along the slde of the lift gate. I butt spliced the two wires together with heat shrink to protect them. Auto door locks on the hatch now work great and so does the washer.

Too bad my wiper doesn't work...maybe a broken wire on the drivers side?