rear storage boxes

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i think we need to put all these pics in the tech section. even if there no real description of how every one was built for me all i need is a few good pics of the goal and ill go from there.

woody i know you have tons of other stuff to do but you think we could set something like that up?

thanks guy and all these look great
mike
 
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Mine is more for camping and trips. I give all credit to the Norcal 80's guys and PismoJim, they really inspired me to tackle this fun project.
http://homepage.mac.com/paintlab/PhotoAlbum19.html
and my writeup
http://homepage.mac.com/paintlab/Personal34.html
Image-888DD7AD595911D9.jpg
 
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Alan, Welcome to the board!

So, what's the best method for securing the bottom of the drawer to the drawer sides? I'm not a big fan of the screw and glue method that most folks have been using, however, more traditional drawer construction methods result in a shallower drawer and eat up cargo volume. What's the best approach?

Curran
 
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A method that i have emplyed in the past to make boxes is to use 1inch angle iron but aluminium would be OK. I cut lengths for the inside corners and then just pop rivet it all together. This makes the boxes imensly strong and easy to build.
 

Cruiserdrew

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For the new Yankee workshop fans, my drawer botton is put together with about 10 of those biscuits that Norm was always using. That way there is no volume loss from the dados and such.

Notice the top of the box is level with the seat folded down, then tipped up level. I'll test out the sleeping space in Death Valley next month.

I've have a couple of pics also showing the Engle fridge slide, and a shot of my waterproof 12v power outlet. I ran 10ga. wires from a new fuse panel in the engine compartment. It made for a clean install.
1Mud4.jpg
1Mud5.jpg
1Mud6.jpg
 

Cruiserdrew

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One more pic-the power outlet. While I did the electrical, Jeff Kauffman is a cabinet maker, FJ60 driver and basically built the drawer while I watched. He has all the tools and the know how and did a fine job. Last pic:
1Mud7.jpg
 
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Drew, is that UHMW that you used on the bottom of drawers rather than roller slides? I had been thinking of same thing. Biscuts joining the boards together would be ideal, but I don't know anyone with a biscut joiner in the area. The Al angle sounds like an interesting idea. Wouldn't he joint be stronger with the Aluminum on the outside of the joint rather than the inside?
 

Cruiserdrew

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Curran said:
Drew, is that UHMW that you used on the bottom of drawers rather than roller slides? I had been thinking of same thing. Biscuts joining the boards together would be ideal, but I don't know anyone with a biscut joiner in the area.

Exactly right. The UHMW polyurathane was cut and shaped, and the drawer was machined for a slot to exactly fit the width of the runners. That way there is no side to side slop. See also the detail of some of the fasteners-these are "pocket screws" that you drill in with a special jig. So to reinforce the bottom of the drawer, there are at least 10 biscuits, about 30 screws and 10 or so pocket screws from the inside. The drawer can double as a jack stand if needed. (kidding obviously)

I found a good source for the pocket latches that hold it closed, and Jeff made a striker from the same UHMW poly. Here's a few pics to clarify:
2Mud1.jpg
2Mud2.jpg
2Mud3.jpg
 
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Nice Andrew, er ah... Jeff.
Cheers,
Sean
 

cruiserdan

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That is a custom-cabinet-grade job. Damn nice for a trail box...:D

Note the detail of the counter-sunk mounting to the floorpan.


I was gonna offer up an interior pic of mine....but...NOT NOW...:flipoff2:
 

Cruiserdrew

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cruiserdan said:
That is a custom-cabinet-grade job. Damn nice for a trail box...:D

Note the detail of the counter-sunk mounting to the floorpan.


I was gonna offer up an interior pic of mine....but...NOT NOW...:flipoff2:

Yep-Jeff Kauffman deserves all the credit. He has built at least 2 others that I know of. He occasionally posts on the 60 forum but I forget his ih8mud knickname. I know he will build these boxes for others-he has said he wants that business-but it won't be cheap due to the level of detail, and the quality of materials. I really like the maple edge banding that he did on every visable end cut-it looks slick and professional.

Actually, some other credit where it is deserved, goes to Derek Lee (dclee). His prototye inspired me to keep the fridge seperate and at floor level, and go with a box just slightly over 1/2 width. The idea for making it seat height was mine-I sleep inside when solo. In my 60, I'll eventually build a full width box, not as tall, and put the fridge mount on top of it. Derek's write up has a few other slick ideas-especially the flip up lid for access even with the tail gate closed.
 
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How about other making it out of other materials? I'd be concerned with the extra weight I'd be carrying around all the time w/ a big plywood or mdf box in the back. An extra 200-300lbs? Are there any kinds of thick plastic that might work? Maybe assemble w/ epoxy or something. durability would still be a concern though. aluminum would be nice but I'd be concerned about the noise factor plus the cost of buying a tig welder and just learning to weld aluminum.
 

slo60

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Hey Guys,

Sorry to drag this to the top, but it just came to my attention that Andy (Thanks Andy!) had posted this here.

I am offering to build the 2 drawer version of Andys' box for $475.00, but I need a minimum of 10 orders to make this work. This does not include shipping. I have built this box for 80s and 60s.

I am running this box in my 60, and have been for several years. Those who have wheeled with me know that I use my stuff! They hold up. My philosophy is design simple, build tough.

If you are intrested, just give me a call at (707) 254-9866.

Cheers,

FJ60Kaufman@sbcglobal.net
 

NorCalDoug

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jdj1971 said:
How about other making it out of other materials? I'd be concerned with the extra weight I'd be carrying around all the time w/ a big plywood or mdf box in the back. An extra 200-300lbs? Are there any kinds of thick plastic that might work? Maybe assemble w/ epoxy or something. durability would still be a concern though. aluminum would be nice but I'd be concerned about the noise factor plus the cost of buying a tig welder and just learning to weld aluminum.
If it's merely storage you want, you could try these plastic ones
I don't know anything about them.

Personally, I'd pick up one of the outback ones offered by slee offroad before buying a TIG welder and learning how to weld...

I think I'll be taking up Jeff's offer on the drawers. I've seen his work. It's very impressive.
 

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