Rear Springs for Chop (1 Viewer)

[UWdave]

I just gone done chopping my 80 and my rear lift is too high. I'm not sure of my weights yet, but I took some measurements.

Distance from center hub to highest point on fender opening:

Front: 23.75 driver / 24.0 passenger
Rear: 25.0 driver / 25.5 passenger


Vehicle info is in my signature. When these measurements were taken I had my spare, all normal gear loaded (tools, hilift, chains, etc) and a full tank of gas.

Any thoughts on a set of rear springs to get me about level?

 

[86tuning]

How about cutting a bit off the spring until it levels out for you? The opposite of a trim packer

 

[UWdave]

S As it sits right now it measure 27 1/2" from hub to flare in the front and 29 1/2" hub to flare in the rear. The PO added 1 1/2" spacers tothe front to try and compensate for the un level stance but still with no extra weight in the rear it sits real high.

Based on those readings you have about a 7.5" lift in the front and 9.5" of lift in the rear.It might even be more if you consider stock readings are normally around 19.5" to 20.5" for the front and rear.

No way a set of caster plates are going to correct for the caster for that amount of lift. You need to lower the truck and get the caster right if you even want to get close to stock caster readings.

From the quotes above I found in this thread: LINK

Stock: 20" front / 20" rear

So it sounds like I'm about 4" front and 5.5" rear

 

[busmup808]

Dave what if you put Js?

Sent from my hawn finga using IH8MUD

 

[jfz80]

I think J's may even be a bit high for you.
You could check slees site for OME spring rate specs and pic a 2.5'' sring that matches the 4'' rate best.
Id be thinking Medium spring since you lost a good bit of weight im assuming.
Dont forget the shocks too

 

[donutfj80]

Lets see it.

 

[VCCruzr]

This is an easy fix: add 1" poly spacers up front, then mount some 37s, done!

 

[86tuning]

Cutting the end of the spring takes a few minutes with a 4" grinder and a pencil disc.

Much more cost effective than swapping springs, unless you're trading with somebody who has what you wabt

 

[BruntForce77]

I tried cutting the rear springs. I personally didn't like it. The way the coils are wound, you cannot get the same full flat circle at the top of the spring when you cut it, so it tends to move around in the bucket and makes noise. Not sure how much you bobbed off the rear, but when I was bobbed with the full hatch and tailgate (both gutted) I ran 6" coils up front and needed J's in the rear to sit level. So about 6 and 3. When I dropped to 4" coils up front I dropped down to stock springs with a 1" spacer and it sat a hair lower in the rear. Now with the SUT cut its a bit higher in the rear with the same set up. Not sure if any of that is helpful.

Sound like you are at a similar setup to me. I'd get yourself a set of stock coils, which can usually be found pretty cheap, and throw them in. Then see how much higher you need to go but jacking up the rear end slowly until its where you like. Then get a spring that provides the lift you require. It's easier to figure out how much lift you need to add, than to figure out how much you need to take away because even the stock spring are going to provide lift. But once you know how it sits on stock springs, you have a baseline.

 

[UWdave]

Working on a full build thread... but hear are the teasers.

 

[UWdave]

I should have listened to blunt force. After 2 days of driving, the Js are still giving me 5" of lift.

I think I'll give it a little more time to see if it settles any.