My rear spoiler has been removed. The bolts are still there but won't come out. I am able to loosen them maybe 1/16 of an inch then they just spin and don't come out any further?
Rear spoiler bolts (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Publius
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Those bolts screw into threaded inserts that are swaged into the rear hatch sheet metal. They can spin if the threads get corroded.
You’ll probably have to drill out the screws to be able to remove the plastic spoiler mounting feet. Then you’ll need to silicone around the threaded inserts to keep water from getting to the hatch.
You’ll probably have to drill out the screws to be able to remove the plastic spoiler mounting feet. Then you’ll need to silicone around the threaded inserts to keep water from getting to the hatch.
- Thread starter
- #3
Oooo. That's not good.
Yea, it’s not pretty either. Here’s pics of mine that were removed & silicone’d a few years ago.
You can mount an accessory bracket there if you want: Rear Hatch Light Mount Kit – 100 Series Land Cruiser - https://www.massivemetalshop.com/shop/product/land-cruiser-100-series-rear-hatch-light-mount-kit/
You can mount an accessory bracket there if you want: Rear Hatch Light Mount Kit – 100 Series Land Cruiser - https://www.massivemetalshop.com/shop/product/land-cruiser-100-series-rear-hatch-light-mount-kit/
maybe i should be happy my 100 didn't come with th rear spoiler. they do look really good IMO
Had a branch come down on my spoiler a few weeks ago cracked both the mounting portion on the underside of the spoiler as well as the passenger side mount itself. Plastic seems super brittle.
Luckily I was able to tighten three of the bolts down fairly well after removing the plastic mounts, I did notice each of the rivnuts budge a bit though. But one of the rivnuts just broke free completely and spun freely. I dont think I used all that much force when tightening them by hand, but maybe in hindsight I should have been more careful.
I knew I had to drill out the rivnut. I was worried about damaging the body so cut out hole in sheet metal to fit around it to hopefully protect things in case I slipped.
The magnet was to catch the metal shavings. I used a wrench to hold the bolt head in place while drilling, but once I drilled through the head it just broke off and left the threads in the rivnut spinning freely.
I then tried grinding it with a die grinder and a 1/2" diameter burr but it just spun no matter what angle I tried from.
I ended up removing the sheet metal and held the sides of the rivnut with some pliers, put some painters tape around it so I wouldnt scratch the paint. I was able to drill out the rest of the rivnut using a pretty sharp 9mm carbide drill bit. Because the rest of the rivnuts moved a little when replacing the bolts I decided to drill them all out.
They were all M6 rivnuts I removed. Luckily their hole diameter was a bit smaller than what I needed for the replacements. The new rivnuts needed a 9mm diameter hole.
I cleaned up the inside edge of the new holes, put some touch up paint on the edges, put some blue loctite under lip on the new rivnuts before setting them. I replaced the m6 bolts with some button heads that have an o-ring on the underside to seal out moisture, painted them with touch up paint. Decided to replace the rear hatch light while I was at it and so far everything seems pretty water tight but I've been keeping an eye on it.
I was pretty freaked out about drilling into the body, but it ended up not being too bad. I do miss the spoiler though, been trying to figure out a way to maybe 3d print a new mounting option for it.
Luckily I was able to tighten three of the bolts down fairly well after removing the plastic mounts, I did notice each of the rivnuts budge a bit though. But one of the rivnuts just broke free completely and spun freely. I dont think I used all that much force when tightening them by hand, but maybe in hindsight I should have been more careful.
I knew I had to drill out the rivnut. I was worried about damaging the body so cut out hole in sheet metal to fit around it to hopefully protect things in case I slipped.
The magnet was to catch the metal shavings. I used a wrench to hold the bolt head in place while drilling, but once I drilled through the head it just broke off and left the threads in the rivnut spinning freely.
I then tried grinding it with a die grinder and a 1/2" diameter burr but it just spun no matter what angle I tried from.
I ended up removing the sheet metal and held the sides of the rivnut with some pliers, put some painters tape around it so I wouldnt scratch the paint. I was able to drill out the rest of the rivnut using a pretty sharp 9mm carbide drill bit. Because the rest of the rivnuts moved a little when replacing the bolts I decided to drill them all out.
They were all M6 rivnuts I removed. Luckily their hole diameter was a bit smaller than what I needed for the replacements. The new rivnuts needed a 9mm diameter hole.
I cleaned up the inside edge of the new holes, put some touch up paint on the edges, put some blue loctite under lip on the new rivnuts before setting them. I replaced the m6 bolts with some button heads that have an o-ring on the underside to seal out moisture, painted them with touch up paint. Decided to replace the rear hatch light while I was at it and so far everything seems pretty water tight but I've been keeping an eye on it.
I was pretty freaked out about drilling into the body, but it ended up not being too bad. I do miss the spoiler though, been trying to figure out a way to maybe 3d print a new mounting option for it.
Last edited:
Jdfern
SILVER Star
Same problem with spinning rivnuts here.
Mine were just a little loose so just to hold me over I used a small amount of black butyl tape/ rope available at Lowe’s. I formed it into small worm shaped pieces and packed it into the rivnut. I realize it’s probably not permanent but it doesn’t leak.
I think I’ll wait until I find an air deflector and then fix them properly.
Mine were just a little loose so just to hold me over I used a small amount of black butyl tape/ rope available at Lowe’s. I formed it into small worm shaped pieces and packed it into the rivnut. I realize it’s probably not permanent but it doesn’t leak.
I think I’ll wait until I find an air deflector and then fix them properly.
Same problem. I have one of the two on each side that spins. I’ve temporarily sealed them with some clear silicone but it’s not really attractive. Especially with the indentions and marks in the hatch paint from the brackets. Meanwhile I bought replacement brackets from another mud member last year before I knew that the bolts weren’t going to come out. If I drilled out the spinning bolts, is there any reason I couldn’t put new larger Rivnuts in and reinstall the spoiler? And before I take something like that on, how likely am I to screw things up worse? I’m not used to drilling out metal and I didn’t even know what a Rivnut was until I saw these posts!
I'm not sure how standard the diameter of the rivnuts are since the spoilers got installed as an option, but luckily the diameter was a bit smaller than the new ones I put in, still used an M6 rivnut though. These are the ones I used: McMaster-Carr - https://www.mcmaster.com/97467A666/
I was pretty nervous about drilling and grinding around the body work, but it ended up not being too bad. Getting purchase on the rivnut lip with pliers and drilling at the same time was a little tough, but after the first I said screw it and drilled out the rest.. Something I've read other people doing is using a putty knife or two and getting those under the lip to create enough tension to hold the rivnut in place. Might be worth a shot too.
I also recommend one of those flexible magnet pickup things for fishing out the drilled rivnuts when they drop inside hatch, bit of a pain to fish out.
Thanks for all the advice. I’ll muster up the courage and give it a try.
