Rear Shock mount repair/replace

[JamesR]

About a month ago I heard loud noises coming from the rear. I crawled under and saw the cross member/shock bar had rusted through on both sides. I read a lot of posts and finally had a plan.
A PO used a 2 inch pipe/tube and a 1.5 inch pipe/tube to piece the stock shock bar back after it rusted.
I decided to go with a smaller 1/5 inch pipe that was almost completely solid. I fabbed a couple of shock months and completed the repair this past weekend. Here are some photos.

I welded the passenger side mount prior to sliding the pipe, from underneath, through the preexisting holes in the frames and then welded the drivers side. The bolt is 2 inches above the bar so the measurements are very close to the stock position of the shocks.
This process wasn't really difficult but it was time consuming.

 

[Output Shaft]

Thanks for posting those pictures. I like how the pins will be extended farther up, away from the axle, instead of just installed through the pipe when using a straight pipe.

That looks like a good solution.

 

[JamesR]

Thanks. I driven since the repair, nothing heavy duty or off road - just local earns, I'm going to crawl under it this weekend to check on it.

 

[cruisermatt]

You should put those shock bolts in double shear. Here are some examples for inspiration.

 

[JamesR]

Double shear looks a lot stronger. I wish I had thought of that before I welded everything up. It's a real pain welding under the 60. But I might tackle that before the end of the summer.

 

[JamesR]

I didn't have a photo of the shock bar installed until today.

 

[JamesR]

This is a work in progress. Here's what will replace the single bolts.

 

[Hot Tuna]

I've just had the same exact experience. I heard a loud noise coming from the back. When I got home and crawled under the vehicle, i discovered that the cross bar had rusted through and detached on both sides. My '87 FJ60 is on a remote island off the coast of Maine with no repair garages or lifts. I'm also new to this forum. Could you point me in the directions of other posts on this issue? Thanks.

 

[JamesR]

Welcome to the madness. It's seems like I searched on "rear shock bar" or "rear shock mounts" when I first starting looking for suggestions to fix the mount.

 

[JamesR]

Follow this Broken Rear Upper Shock Mount Tube

 

[Hot Tuna]

Many thanks for your suggestions. Being on an island adds a layer of adventure and complexity. Has anyone ever tried to jam a smaller diameter pipe through the existing hollow pipe that has rusted out? I know it's not a permeant fix. On my '87 the part of the pipe where the shocks are attached looks like it could last a few more years. If I could only make it function for now while I figure out how and where to get a more permanent fix.

 

[JamesR]

The bar I used was slightly smaller than the hole/openings in the frame. It slid in easily and welded up very nicely. Good luck. Post your progress.

 

[Output Shaft]

1-1/4" sch 40 steel pipe will work.

 

[Hot Tuna]

Thanks for the replies ... they've been very helpful. Here is my current game plan (remember me ... I'm the one on a remote island off the coast of Maine). I'm going to have a metal fabricator make a 44 inch length piece of 1.25 inch diameter solid steel round. I'm also going to have it threaded on both ends to accommodate a bolt. I'll then jack up the truck, take one wheel off and push the rod through the existing shock rod pipe. I'll then bolt the rod at both ends on the outside of the frame. The frame is in good shape as is the rest of the shock rod pipe where the shocks are attached. I'll post a picture when it's done. Wish me luck!

 

[Output Shaft]

Wow! 1-1/4" solid bar! Now we're talking. Definitely post pictures of that.
I want to see that giant nut screwed up against the frame. Won't the tire hit it?

 

[brian]

Problem is, the oe cross member is not a straight pipe

 

[Hot Tuna]

Not a straight pipe? So my solid rod won't fit through it? Hmmm ... this could be a problem. Per my earlier post, the distance between the outside frame ends is 41 and 1/2 inches. The distance between the tires and the frame end is about 3 inches. My plan is to cut a piece of threaded steel rod to 44 and 1/2 inches leaving me 1 and 1/2 inches on each side. The washer and nut will need to be less than or equal to 1 and 1/2 inches.

 

[brian]

not even a little.
in addition the shock mounts are run through it.

 

[Jentuh]

Shocktube in the picture is prepared for cable lockers.

@brian, that looks look a very clean chassis! On mine, I welded both ends of the schoktube shut. In the middle, ontop, there's a small hole that can also be welded or sealed. Once it's sealed, it won't rust from the inside anymore, or thats the plan...

Shocktube replacement can be found here. The example in that pic is straight and won't fit in combination with factory cable lockers.

 

[brian]

@brian, that looks look a very clean chassis! .

it's a 62 frame, that is scheduled for use under my '87, and around these parts it would be considered to be in outstanding condition.