Rear pinion angle (1 Viewer)

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It's endless - that's why I stayed at 3" and 35's and whatever I can't do I can't do :D

If you can do 37's you can do 38's. Just need a bit of spacer on top of the Slee 6" :grinpimp: :grinpimp:
 
-Spike- said:
No problem with the arms. No problem with the tube. I envision problems when the truck weight is supported on the driveshaft, in the u-joints , yoke, and pinion/t-case bearings. Having the yoke or u-joints spinning against immoveable rocks concerns me. I may do a combo, making new arms from .250 wall DOM, re-tubing my bent driveshaft with .125 or .250 tube, and rotating my pinion. I have a spare front 3rd member, so I might try to fit the parts you mentioned above to better oil the pinion bearings. I've never seen them, so I will have to investigate further to better understand what I'll need to do.

The rear arms and driveshaft have always been my biggest worry when crawling over rocks (well, my cat too, but a local muffler shop is confident they can remedy that, so I'm waiting for an excuse) so I'm kind of excited to get this taken care of. What's that saying, 'NO FEAR'? :D

-Spike


I haven't seen them yet, there is a set of 5.29s on the bench, so I will soon. The plan is to trash the crush sleeves and make solid pinion sleeves, machined for proper bearing drag, no shims. Hopefully that will make the pinion stout enough to take the beating.

The best plan is to stay off the driveshaft, but that isn't always possible. The first time I ran Pyeatt clean, last time I candy caned the driveshaft, bent the passengers side rear arm and put that "nick" in the POS ARB bumper. I am looking at the same thing, the cool setup would be broken back. The issues that I see are, pinion oiling, driveshaft to frame etc. clearance and by rolling the axle that far there maybe issues with spring perch, shock mount, etc. angles.
 
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-Spike- said:
Yes, 37's are in my future, but any little bit helps. The tires are a $1000+ upgrade for one inch of clearance, the DC shaft is $450ish, the beefy lower arms are steel cost plus bushings, the pinion adjust is free with the stock shaft if it works and may gain me 3-4" of driveshaft clearance. It's also been my experience that bigger tires just means bigger obstacles, not less breakage. I feel the need to optimize everything, and hopefully spend less time/money fixing stuff I already visited.

Thank goodness the truck is limited to 37's, or I'd be in trouble. It is limited, right? Never mind, I don't want to hear the answer to that.

-Spike

Spike...those 37's get you 2". 1" in ground clearance AND 1" in approach clearance. They gain you a lot when climbing and decending (outward and rearward from the tires center).

The rear arms are EASY and cheap. I used to bend arms and after the angle-iron tack-on I bend nothing. I slapped them on the Lexus.

We'll be at PDraw ASAP and see how things go. Meanwhile, your story only encourages us. :beer:
 
sleeoffroad said:
Moving a 6k lb tuck with one part stuck on a metal triangle is not going to work. Re-inforce the arms or buy upgraded ones. I have never lost a 120 wall rear driveshaft. I have bent some arms.

I assume you've dragged the driveshaft...? I'm wondering if .250 wall wouldn't be extreme, but would love some confirmation that .125 would take abuse. Also, when you say 'bent some arms', are you referring to upgraded ones? :eek:

-Spike
 

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