Rear Panhard Bolt STUCK (1 Viewer)

Joined
Oct 14, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Charlotte, NC
I have removed the rear end from my rig and refurbing it off the car (rust removal, paint, brakes, etc). For the life of me, I cannot get the panhard bolt removed. I have done the following:
  • Soaked it in ATF/acetone (poor man's Kroil) mix
  • Heated it (A LOT)
  • Hit it with the 500lb impact (the bolt is starting to round) - even tried to tighten it to see if it will break loose.
  • Hit it with a breaker bar with 5ft pipe as extension (which broke off the head of the breaker bar)
I have been doing this off and on for 2 weeks with no progress. This thing is STUCK. There is zero evidence that it has moved at all.

I am considering:
  • Sawzall - I dont know how I would drill and tap the old bolt out. Don't know the dimension of that bolt, so dont know the size of tap
  • Keep going with the activities above, praying that the bolt will not completely round off
  • Cussing
Suggestions?

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Joined
Nov 9, 2012
Messages
13,240
Location
Olathe, KS, USA
I have removed the rear end from my rig and refurbing it off the car (rust removal, paint, brakes, etc). For the life of me, I cannot get the panhard bolt removed. I have done the following:
  • Soaked it in ATF/acetone (poor man's Kroil) mix
  • Heated it (A LOT)
  • Hit it with the 500lb impact (the bolt is starting to round) - even tried to tighten it to see if it will break loose.
  • Hit it with a breaker bar with 5ft pipe as extension (which broke off the head of the breaker bar)
I have been doing this off and on for 2 weeks with no progress. This thing is STUCK. There is zero evidence that it has moved at all.

I am considering:
  • Sawzall - I dont know how I would drill and tap the old bolt out. Don't know the dimension of that bolt, so dont know the size of tap
  • Keep going with the activities above, praying that the bolt will not completely round off
  • Cussing
Suggestions?

View attachment 3098739View attachment 3098740
Remember, the THREADED part is on the end opposite the head. Hopefully you're heating and beating on THAT end. That captive nut is welded on. There have been a few here that have broken the bolt or broken the nut loose and had to cut it out and weld it all back together.

Heat the threaded end with a torch and be sure to heat the bolt as well.. Then get a can of "Air" for cleaning your keyboard, turn it upside down, and spray the liquid on the BOLT in order shrink it and break the rust bond. Heat up the plate on the threaded end as well.

The bolt is also seized in the bushing for the piece, so yes, this is a tough one.

Hit directly on the head of the bolt with a 2 LB hammer. Try to hit it as square as possible. This can shock or vibrate the threads to help break them loose.
 
Joined
Oct 14, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Charlotte, NC
Would love to heat the threaded end, but it is hidden behind that bracket. One cannot get at the nut.

I did hit the bolt once heated (with a flame). Nada.

I am considering the following: Induction heater
 

SNLC

OCD
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Sep 9, 2004
Messages
9,609
Location
Boise - Idaho
Website
www.snlandcruisers.com
Cut the whole area out and rebuild it, yes that requires welding. Pics of me doing this in the build thread “Troopy Hodgepodge” in the 70-series section. It was stripped out so pretty much the same boat you are in. Cheaper than buying a new housing.

Cheers
 
Joined
Oct 14, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Charlotte, NC
SOLVED - Another member (I don't see his real name listed in Members, so I will not identify him) told me that I just need a bigger bar and more umpf. The impact was just agitating the rubber bushing. So......after I broke a breaker bar (there is probably a country song name in there), I got a bigger bar and a pipe and it came loose. YAY!
 

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