I have read numerous threads about replacing the RMS. I really like to one @Poser put together. My question is has anyone successfully replaced the RMS without removing the oil pan and rear main bearing cap? I know you run the risk of damaging the RMS, but is that risk low if you do it carefully? The reason I ask is that the oil pan gasket is not leaking and I don't want to mess with that if I don't have to. I know it is way easier to replace the RMS with the oil pan and cap removed, just wondering if it is worth that extra work or if replacing it without doing that is doable. I watched a few YT videos and saw guys replace them pretty easily with a minimum of fuss. Would love the opinions of the vast amount of experience here. Thanks.
Rear Main Seal Question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter t6dpilot
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cps432
SILVER Star
The hardest part of the job is pulling the transmission and flywheel off.
Take your new seal to Home Depot or lowes and go to the plumbing section. Find the pvc end cap that fits the diameter of the seal best. I think it’s a 3-4” end cap. Use that to drive the seal in evenly. Tap the pvc cap with a hammer until the seal is seated. Make sure the area is very clean before you start installing the new one. You can put a very light coat of rtv on the seal to act as a lubricant and to seal any imperfections. You shouldn’t have much trouble with it.
Take your new seal to Home Depot or lowes and go to the plumbing section. Find the pvc end cap that fits the diameter of the seal best. I think it’s a 3-4” end cap. Use that to drive the seal in evenly. Tap the pvc cap with a hammer until the seal is seated. Make sure the area is very clean before you start installing the new one. You can put a very light coat of rtv on the seal to act as a lubricant and to seal any imperfections. You shouldn’t have much trouble with it.
- Thread starter
- #4
Thanks guys. That is kind of what I thought. Not relishing the thought of removing the transmission and bell house, but it is what it is... RMS needs to be replaced.
Try it the lazy way without dropping the pan. If it leaks, do it again with the pan removed.
The old oil pan gasket is incredibly difficult to remove cleanly off the pan. It’s a horrible job. I gave up and tossed the pan in the dumpster and bought a new pan.
Life is too short to be chiseling off rock hard gaskets glued to 30 year old oil pans.
The old oil pan gasket is incredibly difficult to remove cleanly off the pan. It’s a horrible job. I gave up and tossed the pan in the dumpster and bought a new pan.
Life is too short to be chiseling off rock hard gaskets glued to 30 year old oil pans.
Don't forget to check the crankshaft for any wear caused by the rear main seal, and install a speedy sleeve if necessary. It's no fun pulling the tranny twice!
DickM
SILVER Star
The last one I did with everything (bearing cap, oil pan) in place utilized @FJ40Jim's recommended method of using the flywheel as an "SST" to set the RMS 90% of the way by cranking 3 flywheel bolts evenly, and then removing the 3 flywheel bolts and flywheel, and tapping the seal in the small distance necessary to fully seat it.
It ,as one would expect considering the source, was awesome.
I will never do it differently again unless the motor is torn down.
It ,as one would expect considering the source, was awesome.
I will never do it differently again unless the motor is torn down.
cps432
SILVER Star
