rear main leak

[jeffsclan]

Hi all, I just finished putting in a new clutch along with a new rear main. Took it on its first long trip and noticed its leaking again about where the main is. I pulled off the clutch inspection cover wiped everything down and ran it at 2000rpm. Sure enough an oil trail worked its way down in front of the flywheel and on the bearing cap. So either I messed up the seal or my crank is worn too much I guess. My question is can I run this and just add oil or if I do will I screw up my new clutch ? Thanks , Jeff

 

[Poser]

Did you replace the oil pan gasket?

 

[jeffsclan]

Yes although a few years ago. I was looking real hard at that hoping that was the leak, but sadly it looks fine

 

[popeyehj60]

theres most likely a groove in the crank thats allowing the oil the bypass the seal.

When u do go to fix it get a sleeve that will fit tightly over the end of the crank. any bearing supplier should be able to get you one

 

[jeffsclan]

Thanks, I'll check into it. I picked up a new seal today and will start the rip down.

 

[Poser]

theres most likely a groove in the crank thats allowing the oil the bypass the seal.

When u do go to fix it get a sleeve that will fit tightly over the end of the crank. any bearing supplier should be able to get you one

Tried to do this popeye?


A machine shop may make you one, but there is not a piece that is commercially available for that application in the USA.

 

[VTCDN]

Well yes there is .. CR / SKF Linky
There called speedisleeve

Costly ,, I kinda guess price @ 15 per inch Dia.

There tricky to install correctly sometimes.

Personally , if the crank is that far gone on the rear seal ride area,there is more than just that.

Make sure the lip of the seal is not rolled and the tension spring has not been knocked off. Clean the crank area well with scotch-bright and carb cleaner till both inside ride area of the crankshaft is spotless of dirt.
If the crankshaft flywheel / flex-plate bolts are wet (meaning the threaded hole for the bolt is drilled thru into the crankcase) then those threaded holes need to be as clean as the seal ride area and blowen clean and dry then sealed with Brg mount or loc-tite , That is to stop the weeping from the threads.

Slow and clean , Myself i use the old removed seal to PRESS in the new seal..

Anywhos ... HTH's


VT

 

[Poser]

Well yes there is .. CR / SKF Linky
There called speedisleeve

Costly ,, I kinda guess price @ 15 per inch Dia.

There tricky to install correctly sometimes.

Personally , if the crank is that far gone on the rear seal ride area,there is more than just that.

Make sure the lip of the seal is not rolled and the tension spring has not been knocked off. Clean the crank area well with scotch-bright and carb cleaner till both inside ride area of the crankshaft is spotless of dirt.
If the crankshaft flywheel / flex-plate bolts are wet (meaning the threaded hole for the bolt is drilled thru into the crankcase) then those threaded holes need to be as clean as the seal ride area and blowen clean and dry then sealed with Brg mount or loc-tite , That is to stop the weeping from the threads.

Slow and clean , Myself i use the old removed seal to PRESS in the new seal..

Anywhos ... HTH's


VT

Hate to burst your bubble....

F/2F rear crankshaft seal surface diameter is 99.53.


Too small or too large on your provided list.


You really think that I have not been down this road?

 

[John Smith]

Hi all, I just finished putting in a new clutch along with a new rear main. Took it on its first long trip and noticed its leaking again about where the main is. I pulled off the clutch inspection cover wiped everything down and ran it at 2000rpm. Sure enough an oil trail worked its way down in front of the flywheel and on the bearing cap. So either I messed up the seal or my crank is worn too much I guess. My question is can I run this and just add oil or if I do will I screw up my new clutch ? Thanks , Jeff

If the oil drip is building on the passenger side bearing cap bolt head your leak may be the cam plug leaking. It is partially covered by the bell housing so replacing it is a major PITA.

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

The speedi sleeve in question should be a National part # 99393, it lists at about $87.00.

Brad

 

[VTCDN]

The speedi sleeve in question should be a National part # 99393, it lists at about $87.00.

Brad

Ayup , kinda the same number i came up with for the slender series.
These are also in a very wide arrangement of lengths , but i posted a normal Napa / Aftermarket supply house stuff.
A true full bearing supplier who supplies Acklands and Napas has access to this style of selection. Huge Plants , off road / industrial also have access to these places , due to , where eles are you going to find a tapper roller Brg with a inside bore of 2 feet that it's shell is 3.5 feet OD. (70cm X 107cm in size) .

It's these large places that benefit with using the speedi sleeve , more so than automotive.

Poser , Im sure you have heard the line , Can't get , Don't make ,Never heard , All because there store has never carried DEF,(Diesel Exhaust Fluid) / Urea..

If the rear main has a grove so bad that the rider needs a sleeve,
and with the known 2F crank, Something else has also gone .

Crankshaft seal ride areas are hard, have an abundant lube so the normal wear i see is the lip area becomes hard and crusty that the crank wears the seal flat.

Here the cleaning of the old seal / burnt oil onto the crank is very important , due to it could just take out a new seal .

It sucks that jeffsclan has to redo the work, and on rereading oil coming off the front side of the flywheel , sounds like a poorly installed seal. Been There Myself..

Least it's not a Trans Mounted Front WD..

VT

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

It's all true. I'm a supplier's supplier 40 hrs. a week, got the number right outta my catalog. I also sell DEF, part number PM27J (List- $19.59 per 2.5 gal) Good luck Jeffsclan, hope it all works out!

Brad

 

[Poser]

The speedi sleeve in question should be a National part # 99393, it lists at about $87.00.

Brad

Ayup , kinda the same number i came up with for the slender series.
These are also in a very wide arrangement of lengths , but i posted a normal Napa / Aftermarket supply house stuff.
A true full bearing supplier who supplies Acklands and Napas has access to this style of selection. Huge Plants , off road / industrial also have access to these places , due to , where eles are you going to find a tapper roller Brg with a inside bore of 2 feet that it's shell is 3.5 feet OD. (70cm X 107cm in size) .

It's these large places that benefit with using the speedi sleeve , more so than automotive.

Poser , Im sure you have heard the line , Can't get , Don't make ,Never heard , All because there store has never carried DEF,(Diesel Exhaust Fluid) / Urea..

If the rear main has a grove so bad that the rider needs a sleeve,
and with the known 2F crank, Something else has also gone .

Crankshaft seal ride areas are hard, have an abundant lube so the normal wear i see is the lip area becomes hard and crusty that the crank wears the seal flat.

Here the cleaning of the old seal / burnt oil onto the crank is very important , due to it could just take out a new seal .

It sucks that jeffsclan has to redo the work, and on rereading oil coming off the front side of the flywheel , sounds like a poorly installed seal. Been There Myself..

Least it's not a Trans Mounted Front WD..

VT

It's all true. I'm a supplier's supplier 40 hrs. a week, got the number right outta my catalog. I also sell DEF, part number PM27J (List- $19.59 per 2.5 gal) Good luck Jeffsclan, hope it all works out!

Brad

Check you numbers folks....

 

[Poser]

Look at the dimensions listed in the catalog.



CR # 99393 has a minimum shaft diameter of 99.95mm and a maximum of 100.10mm


In case you missed it in post # 8:

F/2F rear crankshaft seal surface diameter is 99.53mm.

Part number 99393 rattles around on the crankshaft.

 

[VTCDN]

Drunken Ira Hayes , has a much better catalogue listing that I have pulling on the interwebs

Amazed at the DEF part posting , thinking most would think along the same lines as replacing muffler brgs , as i know Drunken Ira Hayes catalogue has a listing also.

Whos the Manny of PM27J..

I have Total/Elf/Fuchs numbers..
Drunkin , any part numbers for oil additive to have gasket in a can ?

VT

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

Look at the dimensions listed in the catalog.



CR # 99393 has a minimum shaft diameter of 99.95mm and a maximum of 100.10mm


In case you missed it in post # 8:

F/2F rear crankshaft seal surface diameter is 99.53mm.

Part number 99393 rattles around on the crankshaft.

That very well could be, I didn't reference the spec chart. I just checked by application in my Federal Mogul catalog which states that 99393 is correct for the rear of 80-85 4.2L Toyota engines and 99177 is the proper timing cover sleeve. If all of the specs listed are accurate, what you are saying would make perfect sense.

Thanks,

Brad

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

Drunken Ira Hayes , has a much better catalogue listing that I have pulling on the interwebs

Amazed at the DEF part posting , thinking most would think along the same lines as replacing muffler brgs , as i know Drunken Ira Hayes catalogue has a listing also.

Whos the Manny of PM27J..

I have Total/Elf/Fuchs numbers..
Drunkin , any part numbers for oil additive to have gasket in a can ?

VT

Sorry, no muffler bearings. The DEF is Motorcraft, it's amazing how many jobbers call me and think their customer is pulling their leg when they request it. Hijack over....

 

[jeffsclan]

update

Well, I pulled everything back apart. I was hoping to find I messed up the seal but everything looked fine. I then pulled the seal out and carefully cleaned everything up. The garter spring was still in place. Then I took some emery cloth to the crank as well as the bore. There is an ever so slight groove in the crank that seemed to polish out OK. Installed the second new seal very carefully and let it sit overnight. Today I installed the bell housing , flywheel and starter. Ran it for about 20 min. shut it down and then it leaked after about 5 mins. I had to run the kids to the dentist, when I got back I thought I'd try it again. It had not leaked a drop in the hour I was gone. I started it set the throttle at 1800 RPM and checked. It started leaking again after 5min of running. Shut it down wiped it up and hasn't leaked a drop. The motor runs great with good compression so I hate to think the crank is worn that bad. The cam plug is dry with no signs of leaking. The lifter/push rod side cover does leak a little but not enough to case trouble. So I'm kinda at a loss of what to do next. Should I try the Bars main seal leak fixer stuff ? Dose speedi sleeve indeed make on for the 2F ? Any ideas? Thanks, Jeff

 

[VTCDN]

Jeff the Comment i made about mechanic in a can / sealer was poor joke..

Should I try the Bars main seal leak fixer stuff ?

That CRAP WILL cause more trouble later and is used for the rad plugging up.

Good to see that your getting quicker at Re & Re (Jokin also)

Crank minor groove is normal for most ive seen.

I went and had a look at the 2F i pulled to see what your working with , since im a 3B engine.
The gent who said last main bolt cam frost / welch plug , your sure due to it leaks under running pressure.

Who's replacement seal are you using ??

OEM yota's ?? I'm a stickler for OEM or OMS ..

I know your Pe~d , but before you tear down again , get a Dye tracer and add , Make sure you have a black light or what ever sets it off for you to see the leaking line.
I few cans of spray brake clean to clean the area well , and then bright lights to check to see from how high up and forward the oil is seeping out under a short 1 min at first run.

Sucks , but you don't want to be the fastest Re & Re guy.

If it truly is the rear main seal leaking from the seal ride area to crankshaft (real OEM , Not napa crap) then i use a press method to install the seals and install it in a little further 1/16 or 3 mm more max.. to get a differenant ride area further into the crank ..

Keep up the good work , Best i can help with ~~
VT

 

[Poser]

Well, I pulled everything back apart. I was hoping to find I messed up the seal but everything looked fine. I then pulled the seal out and carefully cleaned everything up. The garter spring was still in place.

Please describe the process you used to remove the rear main seal and have that ‘garter spring’ still in place.


Are you certain that it is not leaking from around the main seal?

Are you certain that it is not the oil pan leaking?

Should I try the Bars main seal leak fixer stuff ? Dose speedi sleeve indeed make on for the 2F ? Any ideas? Thanks, Jeff

Bars leak is not going to fix this problem.

There is not a speedi-sleeve that will work for the F or 2F application....