Rear locking hubs (1 Viewer)

[Macgyver5]

Hey

So I've been reading up on search pages on rear lockers and I was cuious how much do they affect the streetability of the rig I want my rig to perform the best it can off road but still drive nice on the street I was wondering if rear locking hubs was a possibility....any ideas?

Thanks
Brandon

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Depends on which locker you choose, a selectable locker such as an ARB or the OEM Toyota unit, will have zero drawbacks on the road, others such as Detroit, Lockright, etc will have minimal, while a welded rear will have the most drawbacks...

Locking hubs, can only be done on a full-float...

 

[AlaskanWheeler]

rear locking hubs will not aid in increasing traction, however a locking differential like those previously listed will.

 

[Macgyver5]

What is a "selectable locker "....I'm looking for somthing I can lock and unlock...and that provides excellent off road traction

 

[andrewfarmer]

see previous post - ARB or OEM Toyota

 

[Macgyver5]

Thx

 

[camcruiser13]

the aussie locker works well and i have had no probs on the road other than parking lots. i highly recomend if on a budget and cant afford arb

 

[e-man]

For the money and ease of install the Aussie locker rules.

 

[theo]

So we're talking about locked differentials, not locking hubs.

Just for the heck of it, what are some reasons for installing rear hubs?
1) flat-towing
2) rare occasions when front-wheel drive is the only option (can't think of any offhand)
3) ??

 

[e rock]

So we're talking about locked differentials, not locking hubs.

Just for the heck of it, what are some reasons for installing rear hubs?
1) flat-towing
2) rare occasions when front-wheel drive is the only option (can't think of any offhand)
3) ??

My step-dad has a CJ-7 and he installed a kit on his Model 20 rear axle to add Warn hubs. First of all, it made the rear axle a full-floater and the stock M20 axle shafts are notoriously weak at the hub/flange area. Also (and most importantly to him), he flat-tows it everywhere and with hubs, there is even less drivetrain wear (and effort required) than pulling the driveshaft.

Yeah, technically, it would allow front dig, but the effort of turning the hubs negates the benefit IMO. If he were to break a rear axle shaft or cark the r&p, he COULD just drop the rear driveshaft, unlock the hubs, and drive out in front-wheel drive with essentially no moving parts in the rear axle housing itself. Of course, then you're relying on a D30, but that's a whole 'nother conversation...



I'm not familiar with FF cruiser axles - did they ever get hubs or just drive flanges? Can hubs be fitted?

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...I'm not familiar with FF cruiser axles - did they ever get hubs or just drive flanges? Can hubs be fitted?

In the OEM configuration they were all a 1 piece axle and flange. But some have had inner axles made for use with a drive flange and or hubs. So far I have been completely satisfied with my OEM setup (1-piece flange and axle)

 

[nuclearlemon]

i've got rear full floater with hubs mainly so i can flat tow easily. full floater isn't made for wheeling, but for hauling heavy loads. semi floater is much stronger. for rear lockers, if you have issues, go oem or arb. but really, with decent driving, you won't really notice an auto locker. when turning, have enough speed to coast in neutral, or be able to gas smoothly. you won't even really notice it.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

...full floater isn't made for wheeling, but for hauling heavy loads. semi floater is much stronger...

The effective cross section where a shaft (FF or SF) breaks is exactly the same diameter, and infact it could be argued that the SF has a higher probabiliy to fail because of the taper to the smaller diameter (at the side gear). I truly think the FF is a better axle for wheeling. Not if, but when the shaft breaks, your not stuck on the side of the trail or middle of an obstacle.

 

[theo]

Convert to FF. Thanks e-rock.

"cark the R&P"! lol!!