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Rear license plate bolts ---

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by erics_bruisers, Oct 8, 2003.

  1. erics_bruisers

    erics_bruisers

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    I'm wanting to replace my rusting rear license plate bolts with some stainless ones -- anyone know the size of bolt?? I tried a general one, and it didn't fit --

    THANKS!

    eric
     
  2. BigMac

    BigMac SILVER Star

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  3. DanKunz

    DanKunz SILVER Star

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    I really hope you looked that up :D
     
  4. erics_bruisers

    erics_bruisers

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    [quote author=BigMac link=board=2;threadid=6073;start=msg48621#msg48621 date=1065619593]
    6mm x 1.0.
    [/quote]

    thanks!!
     
  5. erics_bruisers

    erics_bruisers

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  6. hvymtlfan

    hvymtlfan

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    Drilling out rusted bolts?

    Seams an appropriate follow-up!!
    Have 92 where BOTH rear plate bolts have broke off into the tailgate. Tried tapping, only to have tap break off within bolt.
    Even soaked prior to removal, yet both snapped. Slowly and carefully drilling out, yet about at wits end being afraid to over-do-it.
    Any suggestions ??
     
  7. MoJ

    MoJ Moderator

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    Do you have enough clearance to cut/dremmel a slot in the end so that a screw driver will fit?
     
  8. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Pop the interior trim panel off and see if you can work them out from behind?
     
  9. Cruiser804

    Cruiser804 SILVER Star

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  10. MikeB

    MikeB SILVER Star

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    I got stainless, allen head bolts at Ace Hardware for about 75 cents each. Phillips head bolts just like the stock ones except stainless are even cheaper.
     
  11. Lka1988

    Lka1988 Wheeling in scale

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    I'll probably get flamed for this, but......

    Drill at an angle. When you finally get the bolts out, use the existing threads for a new one, but make sure to use a nut on the inside end. It hasn't failed on me yet. :hillbilly:


    If you need clarification, I can post pics.
     
  12. hvymtlfan

    hvymtlfan

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    Rusted rear bolts in limbo..

    MoJ: Sorry, they broke clean & flush. Great idea though, another reason to buy a dremmel. Wanted one for about as long as Cruiser.
    1st one took my extra $, and this one's working the same.
    As they say, it's always something.


    CruiserDan: Actually came to mind right away, yet my panel didn't seam to give, and didn't want to ruin something else. I'll look around site for details. Greatly appreciate!!
    I need to call you anyway, your (as I understand) out of N.M. in
    Toy. parts. Looks like I need a H.G./Head Bolts for this 92 anyway.
    (+ water pump, valve cover & gasket). I've a line-item list a smaller
    repairs and baseline this recent endevour (2nd go-around).


    lka1988: No brutal flaming torch reply, was "actually" attacking that idea, yet being over cautious on the drilling angle. Drilling out the broke easy-out been hell on bits. Better metal than the bolt (as they should). If you have pic's handy, on on another thread, would like to see & add to brain cells. But no need to waste time. Appreciate reply. Favor to tackle from inside per cruiserdan and just need to make sure I can pull the panel clean. Haven't done on either one
    owned, so need to look that over.

    Thanks again to each of ya !!! About 2 days away from listing as-is and just get a newer Tacoma. Frustrating I can't even change the plates over, fix mirror, and enjoy due to H.G. over past 4 months.
     
  13. Lka1988

    Lka1988 Wheeling in scale

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    Ok, got some pics for ya... from an earlier repair.

    You have to take off the interior panel. Starting on the side, give it a firm tug. The clips should pop out of the gate one by one. It is made of particle board (?), so do this slowly.

    Pic 1: After removing the interior panel, this is the plate you need to remove to gain access to the bolts.

    Pic 2: A little blurry...apologies. You can see where I drilled to get the old bolts out, right through the side. The threads are still somewhat intact, yet loose, so I used new nuts to keep the new bolts tight.
    1.JPG 3.jpg
     
  14. hvymtlfan

    hvymtlfan

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    Your killer. Really appreciate.
    The whole concern for me's been pulling the rear panel w/o bending the board backing as you mentioned. Had desire to pull on orig. one to look at light rust issue, and it didn't seem very forgiving. This one was same way, so helps to see exactly where the whole's are for panel. Thanks a ton for the pic.'s !!

    G.T.
     
  15. Lka1988

    Lka1988 Wheeling in scale

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    You're welcome.

    The panel is bendable to an extent, and will come off easily, you just gotta give it some lovin'. :hillbilly:
     
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2007
  16. -Spike-

    -Spike-

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    Go to a parts store and invest in a clip tool. It has a screwdriver type handle, the shaft takes a couple of bends and terminates in a two-tined flat fork. Work that in between the panel and gate around the clip and pry the panel off one clip at a time. Not guaranteed to never break a clip, but much safer than pulling on the panel. Failing that, at least get a putty knife or worst case a screwdriver (or two) in there. It's not the end of the world to break the clips, but it really sucks to break the fiberboard around the clip.

    -Spike
     
  17. Lka1988

    Lka1988 Wheeling in scale

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    Oh geez... you couldn't have brought that up EARLIER? :flipoff2:

    Could have saved me a lot of trouble......
     
  18. MoGas

    MoGas Central Scrutinizer

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    You are mistaken...It's 40 for 2 bolts......
     
  19. BOUNDER

    BOUNDER

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    How about a source for "theft proof" screws? My license plate got "jacked" this weekend, spent all morning with Police, Registry and Tax Collector getting everything back :mad: Funny, while there, I was able to renew my Drivers License 4 mos early, therein lies the UP side :flipoff2:
     
  20. -Spike-

    -Spike-

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    My local auto parts stores offer theft-deterrent license plate screws. If not available in your area, a fastener supplier should be able to get you allen- or torx-head security bolts in the right thread/length. The security bolts have a pin in the center of the allen/torx hole, so that a special tool must be used to remove the bolt. Unlikely that the punks will be carrying that tool.

    -Spike