Rear Hub and Bearing Questions (1 Viewer)

[OKMike]

Two quick ones. 77 FJ 40 with semi-floating rear axle:

1. Just pulled the axle shafts and seals. Obviously there is a special tool required to pull the rear wheel bearing. FSM shows some goofy Toyota tool. Any suggestions on what I might be able to buy or rig up at home? UPDATE--I got a rear axle bearing puller kit from Amazon for $26.00. Worked like a charm with my 10 lb 5/8 thread slide hammer. Easy peazy.

2. The lugs appear to be pressed onto the axle flange and there is an old rotting paper gasket between the sheet meal cover peice and the back of the flange. Rebuild kit came with replacement gaskets. How do I get the lugs out to replace the gasket? Will I need a shop press? UPDATE--my trusty Harbor Freight Ball Joint Press worked great for pressing these out. Was able to clean them up run a quick die over the threads and repress them in. The old cover things were beat to hell, Bought two new ones from SOR.

Thanks!

 

[brian]

1. i never messed with semi float rears

2. hammer them out, pull the new ones in with nuts or tap them in...if its a semi floater there is no hub, that the axle flange that the wheel studs are in. but unless you have a reason to need to replace wheel studs, there is no reason to pull them out to replace a gasket??

3. no idea what kind of rebuild kit you got....fill and drain plug gaskets??

 

[Drake2]

Bearings need to be pounded out from the opposite end. Long bar or maybe a 2x2. You will be pounding on the back of a large diameter, thick washer that the bearing seats against. Just went through this myself. You may want to post pics of the washers you are talking about as well as identification of the kit you purchased for better help. Here was mine before, during, and after.

With inner race and rollers knocked out but the outer race and rear washer still installed

After knocking the outer race and washer out from the opposite wheel side by pounding on the backside of the washer.

 

[OKMike]

1. i never messed with semi float rears

2. hammer them out, pull the new ones in with nuts or tap them in...if its a semi floater there is no hub, that the axle flange that the wheel studs are in. but unless you have a reason to need to replace wheel studs, there is no reason to pull them out to replace a gasket??

3. no idea what kind of rebuild kit you got....fill and drain plug gaskets??

You are correct, Sir. Drain and fill plug gaskets. Kit is from SOR. Just looked at the website and saw the contents. Edited my post and included a picture of the rebuild kit. Thanks!

 

[OKMike]

Bearings need to be pounded out from the opposite end. Long bar or maybe a 2x2. You will be pounding on the back of a large diameter, thick washer that the bearing seats against. Just went through this myself. You may want to post pics of the washers you are talking about as well as identification of the kit you purchased for better help. Here was mine before, during, and after.

View attachment 2346169

With inner race and rollers knocked out but the outer race and rear washer still installed

View attachment 2346171

After knocking the outer race and washer out from the opposite wheel side by pounding on the backside of the washer.

View attachment 2346177

 

[Godwin]

Put the bearings and seals in the freezer overnight and remove them just before you're ready to install. This will help with driving in the bearings and seals.

 

[OKMike]

Put the bearings and seals in the freezer overnight and remove them just before you're ready to install. This will help with driving in the bearings and seals.

Will do. I have a bearing/seal driver which makes life easier but getting these out of the axle looks like a PITA.

 

[65swb45]

A minor detail is missing from @Drake2 explanation: he’s got no 3rd member! I think that makes a huge difference as to whether you can use that method.

I have a slide hammer from SnapOn which does the job just fine. Maybe a local lector’s rents one.

I don’t change the gasket unless I’m working on a pre-74 axleshaft and have to replace the bearing race.

HTH

 

[Drake2]

A minor detail is missing from @Drake2 explanation: he’s got no 3rd member! I think that makes a huge difference as to whether you can use that method.

I have a slide hammer from SnapOn which does the job just fine. Maybe a local lector’s rents one.

I don’t change the gasket unless I’m working on a pre-74 axleshaft and have to replace the bearing race.

HTH

Mark, can you post a pic of the jaws you are using on the end of the slide hammer? I tried that method but all the bearing pullers I could get my hands on were either too small or too big.

 

[OKMike]

A minor detail is missing from @Drake2 explanation: he’s got no 3rd member! I think that makes a huge difference as to whether you can use that method.

I have a slide hammer from SnapOn which does the job just fine. Maybe a local lector’s rents one.

I don’t change the gasket unless I’m working on a pre-74 axleshaft and have to replace the bearing race.

HTH

Thanks! I ordered a bearing puller set and a slide hammer from Amazon tonight. Is there a stop inside the axle that the washer And bearing seat against? If not how far in do I drive the new bearing? Figured I could measure the dustance tgat the ild one is in if nothing else. UPDATE--the bearing seats against a small lip inside the axle. Per Mark's note below the washers only go in pre-73s.

 

[Steamer]

I went slide hammer shopping and couldn't decide which to get. Needed & wanted it right away so I threw this together out of scrap laying around. Worked so good I kept it. The oblong hole allowed tilting the end part to pass through the bearing.

 

[65swb45]

Mark, can you post a pic of the jaws you are using on the end of the slide hammer? I tried that method but all the bearing pullers I could get my hands on were either too small or too big.

This is what I have. Swivel head, welded and ground by me to match the OD of the Toyota bearing.

 

[OKMike]

I went slide hammer shopping and couldn't decide which to get. Needed & wanted it right away so I threw this together out of scrap laying around. Worked so good I kept it. The oblong hole allowed tilting the end part to pass through the bearing.

View attachment 2346570

Nice. I gave some thought to trying to rig something up. The FSM shows a puller that takes both the bearing and the seal out at once. I bought a bearing puller set on Amazon for $26 last night. It got great reviews. I went ahead and bought a decent 10lb sliding hammer too. The sliding hammer is a tool I know I will need again so I sprung for a good one.

 

[OKMike]

Mark, can you post a pic of the jaws you are using on the end of the slide hammer? I tried that method but all the bearing pullers I could get my hands on were either too small or too big.

Update--I bought a rear axle bearing puller kit and a 10 lb slide hammer from Amazon. They came today. The middle sized puller in the kit and the slide hammer worked like a charm. Puller Kit was only $26.00: Amazon product ASIN B072KYKPVV
Drove the new bearing and seal in with my Harbor Freight Bearing and Seal Driver Kit. Another cheap but nice to have item BTW. One word of warning. The washer that goes behind the bearing seats against a small lip. I got a little too froggy driving the new bearing in on the Driver's side and ended up bending the washer beyond recognition. Crazy thing though....there were no washers behind either of the bearings I took out. They came with my rebuild kit and the FSM shows where they go. Not sure why the PO didn't have them installed. UPDATE--according to Mark the splash washers only go in pre 73s.

 

[Drake2]

Update--I bought a rear axle bearing puller kit and a 10 lb slide hammer from Amazon. They came today. The middle sized puller in the kit and the slide hammer worked like a charm. Puller Kit was only $26.00: Amazon product ASIN B072KYKPVV
Drove the new bearing and seal in with my Harbor Freight Bearing and Seal Driver Kit. Another cheap but nice to have item BTW. One word of warning. The washer that goes behind the bearing seats against a small lip. I got a little too froggy driving the new bearing in on the Driver's side and ended up bending the washer beyond recognition. Ordered a new washer from SOR today (only $2.75). When it gets here I'll have to pull the driver side bearing out and put the washer in then reinstall the new bearing. Crazy thing though....there were no washers behind either of the bearings I took out. They came with my rebuild kit and the FSM shows where they go. Not sure why the PO didn't have them installed.

Awesome, much better option. Thanks for the info.

 

[65swb45]

Update--I bought a rear axle bearing puller kit and a 10 lb slide hammer from Amazon. They came today. The middle sized puller in the kit and the slide hammer worked like a charm. Puller Kit was only $26.00: Amazon product ASIN B072KYKPVV
Drove the new bearing and seal in with my Harbor Freight Bearing and Seal Driver Kit. Another cheap but nice to have item BTW. One word of warning. The washer that goes behind the bearing seats against a small lip. I got a little too froggy driving the new bearing in on the Driver's side and ended up bending the washer beyond recognition. Ordered a new washer from SOR today (only $2.75). When it gets here I'll have to pull the driver side bearing out and put the washer in then reinstall the new bearing. Crazy thing though....there were no washers behind either of the bearings I took out. They came with my rebuild kit and the FSM shows where they go. Not sure why the PO didn't have them installed.

AFAIK, the splash washer was only used with the pre 9/73 bearings and seals.

Another case of not needing to use everything in the kit.

Have you tried fitting the axle shaft yet? Because it may be an issue. The earlier shafts were smaller right up to the pressed on race. The post 9/73 shafts actually taper out to the full thickness of the non-replaceable race. That extra thickness would be in the same general area as the splash washer, possibly making them mutually exclusive.

If you had bought the parts from me, I would have run over all of this with you.

 

[OKMike]

Hey Mark:

Mea cupla! Lesson learned. That explains why there wasn't a splash washer on either side. Also explains why I bent the first washer trying to seat the bearing against the lip inside the axle. Good news is I was able to take the bearing and washer I did install out this morning with no issue and reinstall the new bearing and seal sans washer so now both sides are good to go. Thanks so much for the info. I promise to to start buying my stuff from you. I need all the help and guidance I can get!

Mike