Please document the wiring with pictures if you don’t mind. Very interested in following as I have the same job to do but might be different on my model.
Rear elocker wiring, '96 LC to '97 LX450 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter SJWantsADiesel
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LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
Please document the wiring with pictures if you don’t mind. Very interested in following as I have the same job to do but might be different on my model.
Feel free to contact me if you need any help.
I did the swap personally from learning with parts in hand, so it’s info that’s deeper in my memory than spoon-fed stuff you forget.
I hit plenty of snags, so my username has a lot of info, like using the 9v battery to ‘bump’ a sticky actuator, and other little pitfalls.
I’m pretty sure my HD that had pics is fried, but I had some pics in a thread I made detailing harness differences & I know I had to be one of the early guys to verify the ‘97 LX450 floor harness as a locker harness in all produced for USDM.
Not sure how much of my old linked pics made the transition to the newest software. - worst case, I give you my photo host account info.
I have a EWD too, that was where I learned whatever @cruiserdan didn’t spoon-feed me as far as the complete stud swapping on both axle shells, and my harnesses I couldn’t find in dismantle yards.
Easy tip - buy the locker 3rd member gasket to notch the RR axle flange, but only go assemble with grey RTV or cut your own thin mineral paper you sandwich in grey RTV.
Basically same up FR, but I had to buy a new shell/housing as I bent mine.
If you’re swapping in 3rd members to unlocked housings.
Thanks. I’ve swapped axles, wired the front axle, dash ECU, switch, and dash lights with Toyota parts and have most of a donor rear harness but that’s where I need to learn what to do as this is a 96LC base harness and I have a 97 LC CE.
Its 5 pins and a ground you need to remove the pins from the donor connector. Using a pick unlock the side lock of the connector then
depress the locking tab and remove those 5 pins from the donor. unlock the side lock of your factory add those 5 pins mostly green . If I remember right two in top row, two offset in second and a single on 3rd row but when I find the pic I used I'll share. Plus a ground black and white which splices /factory spliced into a harness up (accessible from jack panel) by the left taillight.
depress the locking tab and remove those 5 pins from the donor. unlock the side lock of your factory add those 5 pins mostly green . If I remember right two in top row, two offset in second and a single on 3rd row but when I find the pic I used I'll share. Plus a ground black and white which splices /factory spliced into a harness up (accessible from jack panel) by the left taillight.
Thanks. Making progress documented here:
forum.ih8mud.com
Curious what these extra washer like tubes are for.
Axle Swap questions
Repaired the e-locker plug courtesy of my 10 year old daughter. Used electrical terminal tools to pop the lock tab then the pin tab to remove the terminals. Then, unlock the new lock tab in the housing connector and insert pins until they snap in to place. We repaired the cracked plastic wire...
forum.ih8mud.com
Curious what these extra washer like tubes are for.
I believe the rear window washer but might be the breather
- Thread starter
- #27
Sorry, ever since friend and I squirreled away the rear axle from the salvage yard, I've been too busy to post. I will get pics of all the harnesses we got off the donor. A HUGE thank you to @LINUS for talking to my friend and helping him figure out what/where to unbolt off the donor. And since we got the rear, I found a front locked axle at a yard in WA that's getting delivered tomorrow (good we grabbed the front harness off the donor truck for the rear). Will try to photograph and document as much as possible. Between the notes on this thread and few others, I think, we should be able to make it all work
Stay tuned
Interested in following this also, as I just picked up a locked set at a local yard for my 97 LC 40th.
Finished wiring mine and it wasn’t that bad.
I was lucky to have a complete parts rig to convert my non locker. I grabbed the rear harness (fender to fender) and the front drop harness, ecu and new switch. Everything plugged in beautifully including the rear abs plugs. Trouble is my front lockers works as it should but nothing in rear, light flashes in dash but motor sees no power so does nothing. Anyone know what I might have missed. Lots of time into it and no success getting rear to lock. Also tested motor and it works fine, it’s new$$.
When I grafted my donor harness in I put a ring terminal on the ground wire inside the rear quarter panel and grounded it there. Also, if repinning the front harness under the dash double check those wires. Seems like there may have been some model year differences
lp2k
Had a couple of drinks.. saw a couple of things
Easy to identify after paying $500 to Toyota dealership to tell me “they have no idea what a locker is or does” Toyota of Sanford, FL (12/2015)
So, lift the truck up by the rear differential. With one rear tire in the air maybe 2 inches off ground so you can spin it with your hand.
Start her up.
Make sure wheels are choked
Drop the truck in low range for the differential
Turn the knob on the dash to activate rear locker
Get out and try to turn the tire up in the air with your hand.
If you can’t manually lock it this way, your locker despite new is messed up.
Also I was told when you do the axle swap surgery it’s best to lock the axles before you pull them off. Idk if it was a wives tale but I did it and I had no issues on my swap
So, lift the truck up by the rear differential. With one rear tire in the air maybe 2 inches off ground so you can spin it with your hand.
Start her up.
Make sure wheels are choked
Drop the truck in low range for the differential
Turn the knob on the dash to activate rear locker
Get out and try to turn the tire up in the air with your hand.
If you can’t manually lock it this way, your locker despite new is messed up.
Also I was told when you do the axle swap surgery it’s best to lock the axles before you pull them off. Idk if it was a wives tale but I did it and I had no issues on my swap
The only ground I have comes out of the harness is in the fended to fender harness and it goes to the frame behind the tire mount, it’s hooked up. Why did you add a ground in the fender well, was it necessary or a precaution? Did you tie termanal 6 white wire in the fender well? I had assumed everything was plug and play as my diner was a 1994 as my rig is.
I grounded separately because I grafted the harness from the donor vehicle as a standalone harness in mine and also because the way Toyota crimped it in the complete factory harness didn't seem the most secure to me knowing how Toyota grounds can be an issue at times. Yes its the white wire.
