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rear drums... no fluid?

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by skiakhokie, Feb 4, 2004.

  1. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    So I went to bleed the rear brakes (as suggested in my last post about bleeding brakes). I have drums in the back. I loosened the bleed nipple and a little bit of fluid dripped out. The nipple was really hard to undue so I figured I'd take it all the way out and clean it up. So I did, no fluid came out...? should it drain quite a bit?

    I put the plug back in and set up to bleed. I cleaned out both reservoirs completely and filled them with fresh fluid. I pumped the brakes five times and checked the reservoir to see if I needed to put more fluid in. It had not dropped but had turned dark again as if the fluid just swirled around in there. I checked the hose/bleed tube and no fluid had come out. So I did it again for 10 pumps, checked, same thing. So I took off the hose and undid the nipple a couple of turns, hoping to shoot fluid across the garage. Turned down the radio and pumped it 10 more times.... nothin'.? WTF? :mad:

    I talked to my roomate and we agreed that there should be fluid going through there. Right?

    I said screw the rears for now and bled the fronts and they work. Thanks for the advise.

    *Some one mentioned work to play ratios in another post, we should make a spread sheet or somethin'. :beer:
     
  2. IDave

    IDave

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    Did you check both cylinders on both rear wheels? Did you have someone stepping on the pedal while you had the bleeder valve open?

    If yes to both of these, your cylinders are probably crudded up.

    I had 4 of 8 cylinders not working when I got my truck. I think having brakes is a handy thing, so it was one of the first things I had fixed. You can stop with 2/4 brakes, but it can be exciting, and not as predictable as you might like. If you or your loved ones value your life, you may want to prioritize it.

    :D
     
  3. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    and would this be a serious, need to fix before I drive it again or put it on the list for within 3 months problem?

    The valve was open while I was pushing the brakes yes, but no I did not check the left side, I was affraid of what can of worms I could possibly be opening.
     
  4. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    As Dave pointed out, it is your brakes, fix them, it is not just your life....

    Good luck!

    -Steve
     
  5. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    Have a friend pump and hold the brakes THEN open the bleeder to release air. If you pump the brakes while the bleeder is open it will introduce air into the system. Only open the bleeder with pressure on the system. Repeat this process until no air comes out. Don't let the master run dry or you will need to start over.
     
  6. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    if the vavle is open and you pump the brakes and the reservoir level does not drop... doesn't that mean no fluid is getting pushed through the system? Could that mean the brake booster/pump what ever it is is not doing its job? The fronts did everything I expected them to. When I pushed the brakes the fluid dropped the valve spit out fluid.
     
  7. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    No. No. Yes. Front is caliper, rear is multiple wheel cylinders. Enlist the help of a friend and try it.
     
  8. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    are there mulitple valves? There's one bleeder valve on each drum. That's the one I should used to bleed... no?

    *what's up with the smiley faces on the Scout thread?
     
  9. IDave

    IDave

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    2 cylinders per wheel. One bleeder valve per cylinder with drum brakes. Keep looking!

    ;)
     
  10. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Not on later year trucks Dave...

    9/72 I think it went to one bleeder in the rear per side..

    Will verify...
     
  11. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    9/71-7/80 will have a 'jumper tube' that threads into the rear wheel cylinder on each side in the back, where the bleeder screw would be, and instead of having the banjo bolt style jumper tube, it threads right into the wheel cylinder, and transfers flow to the other cylinder, and the front wheel cylinder on the rear will have the only bleeder screw per side..

    Good luck!!

    -Steve
     
  12. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    [quote author=skiakhokie link=board=1;threadid=11053;start=msg99583#msg99583 date=1075961038]
    *what's up with the smiley faces on the Scout thread?
    [/quote]
    Funnin', dude.
     
  13. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    I checked there is definetly, 1 bleeder valve for each, one jumper line for each and I'm assuming two cylinders on the inside. With that being said, there should be fluid coming out... and the level in the reservoir should drop... if not the pumps not pumping when I push the break or something is blocking the lines... yes?
     
  14. Poser

    Poser Oh...Durka Durka Durka. s-Moderator Supporting Vendor

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    Are you pressing the pedal all the way to the floor, or as far as it will go?

    Yes, what you are saying is true, however, if you have introduced air to the master, it could be 'air locked', and will take a bit to get the master to take fluid again, and push it through the system...
     
  15. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    I don't believe I've introduced air, i never pumped it dry like the front one, the front and rear run off the two different reservoirs right? I ran the big (front) one down, but I was able to work fluid/air through the front lines just fine....
     
  16. hammerhead

    hammerhead

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    Here's another trick that works quite well. Take a large syringe( I use the one they used to ventilate the drain when I had my knee rebuilt) it's about an inch by 6 inches. With a small piece of hose I push some brake fluid into the open bleeder forcing airlocked air out through the master cylinder. This is called back bleeding. It can be messy but it will usually get the fluid moving good enough to get it to bleed the right way.
     
  17. skiakhokie

    skiakhokie

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    so my new question is... i'm pretty sure it's one of two problems, either a the cylinders or one of the cylinders is shot, or the master cylinder shaft isn't doing what it should BUT, when I cleaned out the res. and filled it with new fluid, i pumped the brakes and it circulated the fluid until it was all dirty again so that says it's doing something. Tomorrow I'll undue the brake line somwhere and see if it will push any fluid out.

    Can i just pop off my drum brakes and take out the cylinders? I've never maintenanced drums before, just discs. I'm about to have this thing ready to drive again for the first time in about 3 months, i really don't want to get in over my head again for another month...

    *why do i keep telling myself, "after this, everything will work"?
     
  18. fsusteve

    fsusteve

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    One or both cylinders are bad. Mine did this same thing years ago, get new ones and put them on before driving, my family uses these roads also.
     
  19. IDave

    IDave

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    Sorry about not knowing about the jumper.

    Sounds like you could use the appropriate Toyota Land Cruiser body and chassis manual (FSM). It will guide you through the procedure and give you confidence for doing this job. Probably answer some of your questions as well.
     
  20. Rice

    Rice SILVER Star

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    Double check the flex line that connects from chassis to rear axle. If allowed to sit long enough the inside of the hose can swell to the point of blocking the fluid. Disconnect the line at the axle and pump the brake. If no fluid comes out it's time to concentrate efforts from there forward and worry about the slave cylinders later.