Rear driveshaft won’t compress (1 Viewer)

Dirt Ferguson

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This weekend I attempted to remove my VC from the transfer case. I started by tall 4 nuts off the driveshaft where it was connected to the transfer case flange. From there I hit a brick wall where I could not get the driveshaft to compress enough to remove it off the bolts.

Once I realized I was having serious problems separating the driveshaft from the t case, I read as many threads as I could on this problem in the 40, 60 and 80 forums.


— I removed the grease zerk on the drive shaft
— I drove over some big bumps on rough roads
— I sprayed wd40 into the female end of the grease zerk port
— I used multiple large stout flat head screwdrivers to try to separate the driveshaft from the t case flange with little progress

so far none of this has made a difference. I know several other people have dealt with this issue.

getting a pry bar in there is next. If anyone else has dealt with this and has some guidance, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
 

baldilocks

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How about shoring up the rear of the vehicle under the frame and disconnecting the required number of control arms necessary to move/tilt the axle back away from the driveline so it will drop out.
 
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Dirt Ferguson

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@RockDoc your suggestion is going to be my next step if it doesn’t compress today, rain dependent.

@REKCUT not sure, but I’ll try that and find out

The real kicker is that it’s an OEM driveshaft with only 3K miles on it.
 

Comet

Knower of little, master of less.
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BFH to loosen rust? Doesn’t the drive shaft have a real tight fit up front? I recall persuading mine a few years/beers back. Light taps to separate with a blunt cold chisel? If it’s too heavy handed please let me know for future reference.
 

Dirt Ferguson

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I got a suggestion in another thread to use a ratchet strap to compress the DS. It worked for another MUD member, so I’m going to try that next.

@Comet I have already tried light persuasion with a dead blow hammer in the male/female junction area, and with some heat involved as well. To no avail.
 
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If this DS was new 3000 miles ago, was it ever greased? I have a new one in my garage, and it is very tight. If it wasn't greased and maybe you took it swimming, maybe it's rusted?

If it's not changing in length, then it's pushing your T-Case around with every bump.

To check if it's moving, smear a light coat of grease at the end of the yoke, on the shaft.
Jump up and down on the rear bumper to articulate it.
Then check to see if it moved the grease at all.
If the grease moved, it's articulating.
If not, you may have to pull the rear axle away from the DS. Remove the bolts from the rear flange, then lift the rear tires off the ground by the frame to get full droop, then pound on it with a dead blow from the rear diff end.

Thinking outside the box, how about greasing it to hydraulically push it apart to move it, then remove the zerk to allow it to come back.
 

Dirt Ferguson

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When I removed the grease zerk on the shaft I noodled around inside the port with a very fine tip philips head to see if there was some blockage. When I pulled the tip out it had a dark grey grease on the tip.

@BILT4ME however, I will try what you mentioned just to make sure I am in fact achieving articulation. Thnx.
 

REKCUT

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Still trying to determine from your post if your drive shaft won't compress or if its that your drive shaft won't release from transfercase. If you lift it and it extends then it has to compress to go back into place and this would mean that its just stuck to your case and you need to pry it lose.
 

Dirt Ferguson

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@REKCUT I haven’t lifted from the frame yet. I removed the bolts that attach the DS to the t case flange. I was able to wedge a screwdriver in there and break the DS plate free, maybe 1/2”, but from there it wouldn’t budge any farther. Sorry if that was unclear.
 

Dave 2000

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I would be very concerned if the shaft is not compressing, as per @BILT4ME mentioned, the transfer case bearings can be knocked out pretty quickly. Did you fit the DS 3k ago with ease?

Regards

Dave
 
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Nooby here, but I just did this two weeks ago. Loosened all bolts on both ends first. Removed the Diff end first (these are bolts not studs), and then used an old wood chisel (Wide, flat and fairly sharp to get under on edge of the U joint that has a dimple in the forging, and then a couple of light taps with a hammer. You already removed the Zerk fitting so when the drive shaft comes loose, it should compress a little and dark gray Lithium Chassis grease should flow out.
Remember to make a mark on both ends and on the Slip yoke to ensure everything stays aligned if you take it fully apart.
 

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