Rear driveshaft, trying to decide options (1 Viewer)

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I am 100% serious that we all need a video of this. Please do this for science.

I'll find a parking lot to do this. I'm not a fan of doing it on the street. I hate other people doing it so hypocritical to be doing it myself :flipoff2:
 
I'll find a parking lot to do this. I'm not a fan of doing it on the street. I hate other people doing it so hypocritical to be doing it myself :flipoff2:
I love you
 
People like to complain about California because they can't fathom why anyone would pay so much to live in such squalor with such horrible prices all around and hippies and so on.

And they're right, it's terrible here

Totally terrible. Everyone should stay away.
 
People like to complain about California because they can't fathom why anyone would pay so much to live in such squalor with such horrible prices all around and hippies and so on.

And they're right, it's terrible here
You got thst right. I live in MA which is basically California's annex. Cant wait to cash out
 
Any kalifornian knows about greasing zinks, keeps the rust down, therefore spicer is not my variety,just personal taste,

Cheers

GLWShaft
 
Ugh, ok need some help on this. Wenco just called and said that the driveshaft won't balance because there is play between the cup and the snap ring. Yes, could just pump in grease but in the unlikely event I miss a pump or two I'd like to me sure this thing stays balanced. Of course my FSM is missing the pages for the u-joints which sucks so I can't 100% detail what is needed.

Didn't joints use to come with different thicknesses of clips? That would solve this. He said the only other way is to pinch the yoke but he hates doing that. What's missing here?

EDIT: just called Georg and he says Matsuba only come with one size clips. He also said its uncommon to have this issue but has run into it at least once. His driveline guy happened to have the right thickness/diameter clip. I think that's my only option. :hmm:
 
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Worst case source a used yoke from a wrecking yard, sounds like yours has expanded, perhaps from forcing out a u-joint cup without supporting the yoke.
 
A new complete drive shaft from Toyota is about $400 bux IIRC..
 
It's not uncommon for them to come from the factory with differing thickness clips. When removing we always note the color/thickness/location of the clips, if needed use the old clips. IIRC, the clips are still available, we recently got some for a 100 series.
 
play between the cup and the snap ring.

Matsuba only come with one size clips.

I have this same problem with two Matsuba joints (both ends of my rear driveshaft.) Haven't decided how to address it yet: buy Toyota joints and see if they have the same problem (expanded yoke), try and find thicker clips, or source another shaft.
 
You got thst right. I live in MA which is basically California's annex. Cant wait to cash out
I agree totally, liberal paradise part 2
 
You got thst right. I live in MA which is basically California's annex. Cant wait to cash out

Next you can cash out from a red state, except you can't, because trailer parks are hard to sell.
 
My affinity for Wenco is waning. They don't have any clips that are thicker. So now its on me to get thicker clips. What a f'ing pain. Went to SOR today...nothing. Turns out their dismantle guy just tosses them out or they are part of the entire driveshaft only. Still no guarantee they will be thick enough. UGH! :bang:
 
So, there's an actual problem here. As the first guy (a staked claim) who extended his LCA to correct pinion angle, my junk has never been particularly smooth and is getting a lot worse.

I have new u-joints ready to go in, but I suspect the driveshaft Has other problems. Like not being able to hold grease at the slip yoke for forever.

I have a 3" lifted 3rd gen 4Runner with 228K that runs completely smooth without any control arm correction, a first gen Sequoia with a 2.5"'lift that is silly smooth without any correction @ 280K, and my 80 is a mess despite proper angle correction and repeated driveline shop work by a shop that has done excellent work for me over the years.

Their comment walking in the door:

"Oh goody, I'd been waiting all day for a Toyota to come in."

So what is wrong with 80 series shafts that despite a long wheelbase they don't run smoothly?
 
My affinity for Wenco is waning. They don't have any clips that are thicker. So now its on me to get thicker clips. What a f'ing pain. Went to SOR today...nothing. Turns out their dismantle guy just tosses them out or they are part of the entire driveshaft only. Still no guarantee they will be thick enough. UGH! :bang:

I don't think it is your driveline shop. I think these shafts have a design issue.
 
Well before this u-joint dying on me I was pretty damn happy with my lift :hmm:

Fair enough. But on other rigs I have driveshafts that are whisper quiet. On the 80 it's a constant battle. Why?

Yes, I have treated my 80 rear shaft to minor rock treatment, but I bought a spare and it's worse. The shop says: "U-joints are good, OEM is by far the best", and they dynamically balance at 3,500 RPM.

So.

I think there is a spline issue at the design level, and that makes me reticent to buy a new one. I don't want a standard u/joint Spicer shaft, because those joints don't last with any operating angle.

That leaves a D.C. and adjustable upper arms, spendy for a 4" lift. But if a 3rd gen Runner I bought for my kids with a 3" lift and zero pinion correction runs smooth, it's really irritating for the "luxury" rig to be vibrating like hell when the angles are right and moderate.

I think many of us are ignoring how noisy these things are compared to other high mile Toyota designs.
 
I think many of us are ignoring how noisy these things are compared to other high mile Toyota designs.

WHAT? Can't hear you!

Excessive-Vibration.gif
 

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