Rear Drive Line

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So after this weekend's activities, I need to replace the rear driveline. Some J@@p buddies couldn't make a line that I had to prove was a J@@p problem. I made the line, but in the process put a ding in the driveline that later decided to go festive and twist up on me. That's not the real problem...I just wasn't terribly impressed with the material used. Have no idea if the PO replaced it or not, and would have to chop it to tell for sure, but in the one section where the metal began to tear, it looked about a 16th thick. Does anyone know the stock thickness?

Then it got better. I have long been putting off the Slee CDL because I'm an idiot and wanted to make one big purchase once I decided all that I needed. :doh: Nothing like limping off a trail and a 3 hour drive @ 27 MPH with your tail between your legs to make you realize the value $50 would have made months ago.

Christo~ Any Christmas specials we should know about? :D You'll be hearing from me soon.
 
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That's ok, you can help me do the famous extra step to the CDL install you always have to post for everyone. :D Not that you have finals coming up or anything.

BTW--Nice avatar...looks like some new Japanese Anime warrior
 
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The credit for the extra step goes directly to Dan the man. I am fully willing to help you cut into your electrical system though. Mine is still working flawlessly.

Finals? When? :D
 
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[quote author=sleeoffroad link=board=2;threadid=8562;start=msg72963#msg72963 date=1070918301]
re-tube with 120 wall is the way to go.
[/quote]

Excuse the ignorance, but what does that really mean? Calling a shop tomorrow.
 
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That's just slightly bigger that an 8th thick...isn't there a way to go thicker? And why wouldn't it be recommended to just go thicker? Thanks
 
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120 is actually a little less than an eighth inch; 1/8" is .125

Not sure exactly, but I'd guess that you don't want to go too thick because you don't want too much rotating mass that would hinder acceleration, braking, and add to drivetrain wear.

That's probably why a lot of the "hot-rod" guys use carbon fiber drive shafts.
 
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You can lock the T-case without the CDL switch. Put the t-case in L and when the CDL light is on, go under and unplug the plug to the actuator. When you are in H the center diff will still be locked.
 
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Hmmm...I'll have to try that. Already talked to Slee and ordered the CDL.

So I have a few shops around to choose from. One is an idiot, and the other is up in the northern end of the state. The only one close that I can trust said he'd replace it with 156. Is that too thick? I don't want to ruin gears or pinion instead of the cheap drive line tube. OPINIONS?
 
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Thanks Cory,

Yeah DanG swears by him and he was a bit cheaper as well. I'd be down for over a week though to UPS Ground it to him and then have him UPS ground it back after fixing it. It just needs to be re-tubed and I'm picking it up from 6 states here in a bit. Hopefully doesn't come back to bite me. What do you think about 156 wall? Too thick?
 

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