Rear Disk brake discussion (1 Viewer)

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Ok so I'm looking at options for rear disk brakes on my 60.

(1) one option.... run this flange adapter from ruff stuff, add spindle and other parts to setup rear disk brakes using mostly toyota stuff but looks to be a reasonable high level of fabrication required...ie getting the flange adapter mounted and obviously welded square with the axle housing...etc. I personally don't have the expertise to install the flange bracket but I have a friend who does (fab and welding skills).
Axle Flange, Rear, Toyota, Full Float - RuffStuff Specialties

(2) Use this kit or other similar kit to remove drum brakes, install mounting kit, add caliper and hardware...etc for rear disk. I would not use calipers with built in parking brake because I'm under the impression its mission impossible to keep them adjusted. It looks to me that these brackets are only for certain year model GM caliper assemblies.
2491

(3) Use this setup for new parking brake...unsure of total install requirement and proven method of operation/control, ex...what is required to operate the parking brake, can you adapt the current stock parking brake cable assembly to work...( has to be safe / dependable)

4066MB3

Anyone have anything to say / comment on... I want good brakes...I'm tired of the performance of what I have and I want a rock solid parking brake that's independent of the hydraulic system if at all possible (unlike the line loc).

Bottom line...current stock brakes suck and things have to change...obviously looking for an improvement. Any first hand experience with using any of this stuff? or know someone who has.. pro / con?

Other known proven solutions?
 
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Have you up graded the front calipers yet? 92-96 v6 4runner are a direct bolt in but with larger pistons.
if you go with gm calipers for the rear I would contact Poser and get brackets and rotors from him. Pick up early 80s gm calipers from your local auto parts store. They usually come with pads and hardware to mount them. You will have to run a proportioning valve at the master to keep the rear from locking up. Or use a 80 series master that didn't have abs.
Here is a link that has a bunch of info on rear disc upgrades.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/60607-rear-disc-brake-info.html

on my 60 I upgraded to the 4 runner calipers and it helped alot. It stops pretty good when I dont have all my gear in the truck. But when its loaded with Fridge, camping gear, Yakima box on top and 2 people it requires a little more foot to stop. I think my 60 weighs in around 6k loaded
 
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Have you up graded the front calipers yet? 92-96 v6 4runner are a direct bolt in but with larger pistons.
if you go with gm calipers for the rear I would contact Poser and get brackets and rotors from him. Pick up early 80s gm calipers from your local auto parts store. They usually come with pads and hardware to mount them. You will have to run a proportioning valve at the master to keep the rear from locking up. Or use a 80 series master that didn't have abs.
Here is a link that has a bunch of info on rear disc upgrades.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/60607-rear-disc-brake-info.html

on my 60 I upgraded to the 4 runner calipers and it helped alot. It stops pretty good when I dont have all my gear in the truck. But when its loaded with Fridge, camping gear, Yakima box on top and 2 people it requires a little more foot to stop. I think my 60 weighs in around 6k loaded

Yes I have the 4 runner calipers on the front and my truck also is approx 6K in weight.

Appreciate the feedback...I'll check out the link
 
on my 40 I went with 4 runner calipers, gm rear calipers and brackets and rotors from poser and 80 series master. It stops pretty good but with the 35s it still takes a bit of pedal to stop.
 
What about parking brake...configuration ?
 
my 40 has the stock transfer case drum brake
 
Poser does not offer these brackets (rear disk brake brackets for my 60)..

TSM relates that you have to drill through the transfer case to mount their drive-shaft disk brake setup...which is a big negative in my view, it may be the only way to do it but not liking the idea of making any extra holes in the TC case.

Looks like TSM is the source for the rear brake parts..(disk setup), I'm sure there may be others.
 
He must have quit selling them. I wouldn't be a fan of drilling in the tcase either.
 
Sorry for the hijack, but my 45 has similar issues. Any advice on upgrading a 40 series? I already have disk fronts BTW...And my master cylinder is not stock but old...

Cheers, joel
 
Sorry for the hijack, but my 45 has similar issues. Any advice on upgrading a 40 series? I already have disk fronts BTW...And my master cylinder is not stock but old...

Cheers, joel

I'm looking into this question obviously..but different model truck. it would seem to me that you would be good by getting the hardware for the rear disk setup from TSM? I assume you will need to change your brake master cylinder and potentially add a proportional valve (spelling ?)... As I understand that line of approach you would be using GM calipers. I assume your 40 has the old school drum parking brake on the driveshaft yoke? so you would be good to keep that if it works right. I think this is the cheapest way forward.

The other approach would be to run the flange adapter from ruff stuff and then use Toyota front end brake hardware on the rear after making various modifications. This approach would be more expensive unless you had the fabrication skills and allready had spare parts to use.

These are my assumptions....as I'm not crystal clear on the differences between the various year 40 brake configurations and how they compare to a 60.
 
Ok given the above I think I've hit zero options with alternative mechanical parking brakes for a few reasons. (1) i'm not drilling holes in my transfer case to mount the driveshaft disk brake parking setup from TSM....I just don't see that as an option. (2) I don't have confidence in the GM disk brake calipers with the built in parking brake to stay adjusted.

I'll do some additional reading on the GM caliper with built in parking brake ...it would require some changes on the mechanical brake cable to use...I'm just unsure of that working right after going through the pain of making changes.

Which leaves options like a line lock as about the only parking brake option.

Or stay with stock....and basically tear the rear drums down every few months to screw with adjustments..
 
I would try to upgrade the master to a larger bore to see if that helps to start with.
 
I think jt outfitters sells the rear brackets to use gm calipers
 
Elbert,

I have a set of brackets for the GM set up if you can't find any, also if my memory serves me right on the eldo calipers you must use the parking brake all the time to keep it adjusted up. Hope this helps.

thanks
lee
 
Rear disks

Elbert,
I've been running the TSM rear disk kit for about 3 years on my 60, and have been very pleased w/ the braking performance. One issue I ran into is with OME heavy rear springs, one of the caliper bolts won't clear the spring packs, so caliper removal is a pain requiring removal of 3/4 of the bolts holding the bracket to the axle housing. Then it can be tilted enough to remove the bolt and caliper.

For parking brakes, I've given up on the Eldo e-brake rear calipers. At best they held marginally, and I struggled to keep them adjusted. I just ordered the TSM transfer case brake kit (4066MB3) to try. Per TSM there isn't any drilling of the t/c involved, but you do need to remove the rear output yoke to install the rotor. It should actually simplify cabling compared to the Eldo e-brakes.
 
Elbert,
I've been running the TSM rear disk kit for about 3 years on my 60, and have been very pleased w/ the braking performance. One issue I ran into is with OME heavy rear springs, one of the caliper bolts won't clear the spring packs, so caliper removal is a pain requiring removal of 3/4 of the bolts holding the bracket to the axle housing. Then it can be tilted enough to remove the bolt and caliper.

For parking brakes, I've given up on the Eldo e-brake rear calipers. At best they held marginally, and I struggled to keep them adjusted. I just ordered the TSM transfer case brake kit (4066MB3) to try. Per TSM there isn't any drilling of the t/c involved, but you do need to remove the rear output yoke to install the rotor. It should actually simplify cabling compared to the Eldo e-brakes.

HI...

Maybe I got some wrong info or the wrong person from TSM emailed me.. I emailed TSM directly about the parking brake install and it was my take that you had to drill holes in the case?

It would be great if that was not the case?? Have you spoken to TSM direclty by phone?

Yes I had no intention of going with the GM calipers with the built in parking brake because I felt the things would never stay in adjustment.

I'll follow up on this....seems to be a clear issue on the TC mount...

Elbert
 
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http://www.tsmmfg.com/Resources/4066MB3.pdf This just says (between the lines) to unbolt a few bolts from the tcase rear housing and use the supplied longer bolts and use thread sealant to keep them from leaking gear oil. You would have to remove the rear output nut that holds the flange on. So you would have to get a new toyota nut for that. I put a maf disc brake on my fj40 10 years ago and I didn't drill anything. When I rebuilt it a few years ago i went back with a drum.
 
http://www.tsmmfg.com/Resources/4066MB3.pdf This just says (between the lines) to unbolt a few bolts from the tcase rear housing and use the supplied longer bolts and use thread sealant to keep them from leaking gear oil. You would have to remove the rear output nut that holds the flange on. So you would have to get a new toyota nut for that. I put a maf disc brake on my fj40 10 years ago and I didn't drill anything. When I rebuilt it a few years ago i went back with a drum.

ARe you using or did you use the TSM disk brake mount...etc ?

Don't the 40's have a drum parking brake on the driveshaft (OEM STOCK)?

The instructions on the web site are incomplete at best.

I emailed TSM directly..

My entire line of questions have been dealing with a FJ60...and split case TC... I'm unsure about any of the mods or requiremets on a 40 TC.
 
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The below is a copy of the email I sent and the reply I received... maybe there is a misunderstanding on my part but you can see what I asked and what their reply is.

Their (TSM) instructions on the web site in regard to the parking brake says something tot he effect "the bolts need to be sealed"....you can see where I asked what they were talking about....then you can see the reply that says "the bolts that bolt our bracket to your transfer case are drilled into the inside of the transfer case"....

I'm referring to the stock FJ60 split-case transfer case...as I noted below...


Elbert you can also use the parking brake calipers part # 3110 on the rear disc conversion, but you will have to make your own cables as the calipers pull forward instead of to the center. Yes the rotor bolts to the back side of the yoke on the opposite side of the driveshaft. The bolts that bolt our bracket to your transfer case are drilled into the inside of the transfer case and it looked to us like it would leak unless the threads were sealed. Toyota makes a cable that would work with the transfer case parking brake and we make cables as well. The new MB-3 caliper can be reversed and has more holding power. I believe there are some photos on the customer rides section of the web site Home

Thanks,
TSM Staff

On Thu 28/06/12 9:06 PM , "Elbert Clarke" elbertclarke@bellsouth.net sent:

I have a 1986 FJ60 Toyota Land Cruiser. It has the stock transfer case and stock rear drum brake setup.

I’m looking to go with rear disk brakes and also a revised parking brake..to that end I came across your web site.

My truck is a stock US Market FJ60 with the semi float 6 lug rear axle assembly.

I’ve looked at your rear disk brake kit and also your transfer case mounted disk brake setup.

It appears you are offering two brackets, hardware, two rotors (not understanding what you are calling a vented rotor?) I assume that vented mean a rotor that has a air duct setup to cool it?
What specific calipers work with your caliper brackets...only the GM ones you list? (non parking brake version).

In regard to the parking brake that mounts to the transfer case and the driveshaft. It would appear that based on the instructions the rotor bolts to the yoke...then to the driveshaft?

In the instructions you say to seal the threads of the bolts at the transfer case? not following what you mean by that? Its been some time since I’ve really paid attention to the rear of my transfercase but does it have threaded bosses on the rear of the case for your brackets to mount? And then the $1,000 dollar question.... what solutions are there for operating the brake itself once installed.

DO you have any pics of these items installed on FJ60 land cruisers so I can see more detail? And what is the difference between the two or so model of parking brakes you list for the FJ60...I noticed one said “new”... My 60 has a manual transmission with the OEM split transfer case (stock setup).

I’m a member of the ih8mud forum where a bunch of land cruiser and toyota folks share info and tech tips.... I’m looking for a quality proven solution to my brake issues as I plan to run some larger tires and want to get better brakes and a functional parking brake..

Please elaborate and respond to my questions above.

Elbert
 
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ARe you using or did you use the TSM disk brake mount...etc ?

Don't the 40's have a drum parking brake on the driveshaft (OEM STOCK)?

The instructions on the web site are incomplete at best.

I emailed TSM directly..

My entire line of questions have been dealing with a FJ60...and split case TC... I'm unsure about any of the mods or requiremets on a 40 TC.

The brake I used was from Man-A-Fre. and yes the 40 case is different but you have to pull out some of the bolts that are on the case

If you look at this picture you can see where they are replacing the bolts on the rear bearing housing with longer ones for the bracket. Those bolt holes are already drilled and tapped thru into the housing where the oil is. At least they are on my 87 case. Which is why you use thread sealer with the new bolts.
4066
 

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