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Spook50

Skål
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
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761
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7,248
Location
Spokane, WA
Okay I got a pair of calipers (with ebrake parts and cables) off of an '84 Eldo, and now I'm just doing up a list of what I'll need to do the conversion.

1) Rebuild kit for the calipers and caliper paint to clean them up, and pads (obviously)

2) Front rotors from a '90 Chevy K1500 pickup, centers machined to 4.185"

3) Soft line (preferably SS steel braided) to either connect to the hard line on the axle, or to run the full length of the axle from the T to the calipers. I think I'd rather just cut a few inches of hard line and use a short length of soft line in this case. These I'll get from TSM.

4) Brackets with hardware from TSM

5) New wheel studs (will I need longer studs or not? What diameter will I need for the Chevy rotors?)

6) Supplies to rig up the ebrake cable. Not sure how I'm going to go about this yet, but so far I'm planning to copy Calfj60's set up once I can see what it looks like.

Anything else I may need or should keep in mind while doing this? As always, I'm open to suggestions from anyone who's done it before and can help me out. I'm going to keep money aside for a proportioning valve, but I'm hoping I can adjust the factory LSPV to work correctly with a 4-wheel disc setup. If not, I'll eliminate that and install a Wilwood prop. valve.
 
Not you don't need longer studs .. not in my case that I buy a complete kit from TSM.

Just my e-brake setup are very simple .. but I do a lots of diagrams and ideas in my mind about this .. most in my case I can't found any local company that make custom e-brake cables for me ..

cable-join.jpg


final-caliper-setup.jpg
 
Tapage said:
Not you don't need longer studs .. not in my case that I buy a complete kit from TSM.

Just my e-brake setup are very simple .. but I do a lots of diagrams and ideas in my mind about this .. most in my case I can't found any local company that make custom e-brake cables for me ..

Did you just cut the cables to match the length and use those clips to secure them? Looks to be a pretty effective way to go, but how are you avoiding excessive wear at the loops (where you have all three cables connected)?
 
Spook -
Did you see the reference on the TSM site under accessories that mentioned CUSTOM CABLES (562) 949-0455?

Tapage -
Is yours a full floater?
 
Tinker said:
Spook -
Did you see the reference on the TSM site under accessories that mentioned CUSTOM CABLES (562) 949-0455?

Tapage -
Is yours a full floater?

Yeah I saw. I've heard some people say you're better off making your own (if you can) or going to a custom shop and having the work done. From what I've been told, TSM's cables still allow for too much travel in the handle and you can't get a "full" application of the ebrake. Not sure if there even are any custom cable shops in the Spokane area, so I'm gonna try and go at it myself once I can find parts. Scrounging shouldn't be a problem with all the cable parts we have for rigging the flight controls on our jets :D
 
Whatever you do, don't use coated cable. I got some from an aircraft supply house for my old sailboat & had the fittings swaged on. They pulled loose (sounded like a shotgun) & bent my mast.
 
Tinker said:
Whatever you do, don't use coated cable. I got some from an aircraft supply house for my old sailboat & had the fittings swaged on. They pulled loose (sounded like a shotgun) & bent my mast.

Yeah when our bulk cable comes in it's just bare high tensile cable. I'm actually now thinking of having a long single cable with each end connected to the calipers and then a stainless steel part that it can loop through as my single OEM cable pulls it so it can retain equal pressure on each caliper.

I'm likin that idea...
 
Spook -

You could run a sheave on the end of the handbrake cable so it could self-adjust side-to-side as it rolls along a length of cable between the calipers.

westmarine.com has a gazillion different types of sailboat sheaves - you want a steel "roller" & removable side plate.

Stanley -
The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. (tsmmfg.com) Castle Rock, CO - check 'em out!
 
Tinker said:
Spook -

You could run a sheave on the end of the handbrake cable so it could self-adjust side-to-side as it rolls along a length of cable between the calipers.

westmarine.com has a gazillion different types of sailboat sheaves - you want a steel "roller" & removable side plate.

Stanley -
The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. (tsmmfg.com) Castle Rock, CO - check 'em out!

Yeah that's kind what I was thinking. I've got the factory eldo cables too, so all I'd need to do in that case would be to figure out the best way to splice 'em together.

How much stress is put on an ebrake cable anyway? 100, maybe 200 lbs, if even that?
 
Last edited:
Theres a pic of how I did it under the Tech section on this site. I used the stock caddy cable & cut them to work.

Tapage,
With your set up how do you keep axle movemet from affecting the pressure on the cable?
 
Tapage said:
Not you don't need longer studs .. not in my case that I buy a complete kit from TSM.

Just my e-brake setup are very simple .. but I do a lots of diagrams and ideas in my mind about this .. most in my case I can't found any local company that make custom e-brake cables for me ..

cable-join.jpg


final-caliper-setup.jpg


sorry for the hijack
is that green moss in the first picture? man it must be humid as hell in panama
 
beaufort-fj60 said:
sorry for the hijack
is that green moss in the first picture? man it must be humid as hell in panama

nap not green moss is green maint in my track bar .. but no excuses we have around the year in winter season about 90 - 96% humidity.
 
Spook50 said:
Did you just cut the cables to match the length and use those clips to secure them? Looks to be a pretty effective way to go, but how are you avoiding excessive wear at the loops (where you have all three cables connected)?

I keep my factory cable in my factory position and lever inside the cabin, but when I star the instalation I left this part to the end to get the final fine adjust there.

I go with the factory cable to the first factory bracket as you see in the pic

two-inone.jpg


from this point to TLC e-brake cables are used and tight as much as I can ..

From this point to the calipers are easy ...

front-caliperview.jpg


2 issues realted with this setup.

1. I thought not sure how much friction are generated at enter point on the caliper ( fix part )

2. For sure, when my HJ-60 is full loaded I have more lever travel in the cabin, from 3 click unloaded to 4 or 5 clicks loaded.
 
About your brake lines, check the tech section for a Raybestos part number that is female metric on one end and male SAE on the other. I used this piece for the rear disks on my FJ40. I used Monte calipers so I dont know that it is the same for your Caddy calipers, but I would suspect GMs are all the same.

Hope that helps.

Hodag
 
hodag said:
About your brake lines, check the tech section for a Raybestos part number that is female metric on one end and male SAE on the other. I used this piece for the rear disks on my FJ40. I used Monte calipers so I dont know that it is the same for your Caddy calipers, but I would suspect GMs are all the same.

Hope that helps.

Hodag

Do you know what thread our metric fittings are?
 
I think that there are two styles of metric brake line. Asian metric, and European metric. I think this because when I have gone after metric brake lines and fittings, the shop asked me what vehicle it was going into. When I told them that I thought that metric was metric, they said that a Toyota's metric brakeline was different than a BMWs metric brakeline.

I dont know for sure, but the fittings I got worked in my truck, and I dont have a BMW to try them against.

Ill try to see if I can get more specific.

Hodag
 
Hey all, I'm working on an Isuzu rdb conversion. I'll start a thread when I've got some more info... don't mean to hijack, but figured that some of you reading this thread might be interested in another alternative.
 
Hey all, I'm working on an Isuzu rdb conversion. I'll start a thread when I've got some more info... don't mean to hijack, but figured that some of you reading this thread might be interested in another alternative.

Izusu with e-drum brakes .?
 
Izusu with e-drum brakes .?


Yep. One of the agents at my brokerage has an Isuzu trooper. I'm going to see about pulling the wheels off and measuring out some stuff... I've heard that the drums-in-disc aren't that great, but it is worth checking out.

Also, Hammered, on mud is around Costa Rica somewhere and says he's got a bracket fabbed. I'm hoping he'll share the template, which will make the project much easier!
 

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