rear disc conversion.....help! (1 Viewer)

[73fj]

i am in the process of converting to discs in the rear on my truck.the problem im having is trying to find the right rotors,the one i see on all the conversions say 1990 2wd half ton regular cab.when i tell my parts guy that i get rotors with hubs,bearings and studs,4wd rotors are the same.can i remove the hubs and bearings and have them machined to fit my axle?anybody with suggestions?truck has to be ready for the 7th.desperation setting in!

 

[ryeguy]

That's odd...... When I went to the parts store and asked for the rotors ..... that's what I got.... just a brand new pair of rotors. Maybe you need to talk to a different parts guy... :dunno:...

 

[Yoda]

HEY!!!!
It has to be a 1990 4X4 1/2 ton PU also not an extracab. This comes as rotors only. then machine the center holes out to the correct diameter. The 2wd is only 5 bolt lugs.

A guy on EBAY was selling a set already machined last week (done now). I think opening bid was $95.

 

[79fj40]

I am in the middle of the conversion myself. Check out Bill Jackson's write up in the tech section. Your rotors need to be the fronts from a 1990 ish chevy 1/2 ton, regular cab 4x4. Not heavy duty, they are too wide. You need one's no wider than 1 1/4". I had mine machined to the 4.20" that Bill suggested and it worked fine. If you are using Monte Carlo calipers it took me 2 days and several parts stores to find brake hoses. Raybestos # BH38149 or NAPA 38149 ( had them crossed with Bendix, Wagner and a couple other brands ) and had no luck, unless I want to wait 7 more days to get them. The hoses fit a 82-83 Nissan 200 sx rear. Nissan doesn't have one in the nation. I have a set now but have not installed, if they work and you are interested I can give you the brand and part #. Good Luck!

 

[Man Jerk]

compliments of www.mntoyx4.com

Just got back from Naper with all the parts I should need for my convertion

Metric to US brake line...2 PN 38149, $10.59 each
Caliper bolts..4 PN 82205 $5.99 each
Rotors 2 PN 4885977, $18.69 each
PADS....PN TS 7070A-M $16.99
Calip...2 PN 242-2032, there is a L/R PN
Hardware kit, 2 PN 4982162

Total Cost $128.00
Core $40.00

 

[Rollin'in'Zona]

compliments of www.mntoyx4.com

Just got back from Naper with all the parts I should need for my convertion

Metric to US brake line...2 PN 38149, $10.59 each
Caliper bolts..4 PN 82205 $5.99 each
Rotors 2 PN 4885977, $18.69 each
PADS....PN TS 7070A-M $16.99
Calip...2 PN 242-2032, there is a L/R PN
Hardware kit, 2 PN 4982162

Total Cost $128.00
Core $40.00

Very cool post!
Questions:
1) What calipers are these?
2) What parking brake set up will you run w/ this?

Thanks!

 

[Poser]

manjerk-

Answer the man's question!!!

 

[Tinker]

I know it's too late, but what about the conversion package offered by The Streetrod Manufacturing Co.: http://www.tsmmfg.com/2494.htm

 

[Man Jerk]

manjerk-

Answer the man's question!!!

I do believe that this is the monte carlo calipers with parking brake, either that or the eldorado ones.. The info posted was from the conversion that Kemper did on the Hornet.

It's cute that you actually thought that I had original tech info to pass along steve

Here is the original thread I got it off of

http://www.mntoyx4.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1781

Clarification...
I do not believe these are the calipers with parking brake. I believe he used a stock T-Case FJ40 parking brake.

 

[Jerry D.]

Does anyone know of a source for the E-brake hardware for the Monte Carlo/El Dorado rear calipers??? The lever, bracket and spring.

GM doesn’t carry them anymore, and junk yards here are almost non existent.

 

[Tinker]

See above about The Streetrod Manufacturing Co. - they supply the whole calipers & might be able to get parts. I assume they scrounge rebuildable ones from "recyclers".

 

[aa589]

I got my kit from TSM, with an ebrake cable from Custom Cables in CA. The calipers are from an early 80's Caddy (TSM recommended), and I installed a Wilwood proportioning valve. I'm having a hard time getting the proper power in the back (I can't even lock them up on a dirt road).

Not to hijack, but should the stock proportioning valve be removed? Right now they're set up as the MC to the stock prop valve to the Wilwood valve. Perhaps the stock valve is shot?