Rear differential pinion seal leak (1 Viewer)

[Ohiolc100]

Is this as easy as this video makes it look, i know this isnt a land cruiser but in my mind this seems to be all it could be, or is there something I'm missing?

 

[AlpineAccess]

Yes, it's about as easy as the video makes it look.

They are using a brass drift on the seal, that's fine and they are going around 360 properly. Sometimes this brass drifts get dents or aren't perfectly flat on the end. I like to use a block of wood with a hole drilled in it to seat seals like this but that can have its frustrations as well.

If the seal isn't in pretty much perfectly flush you'll have a leak again in a few thousand miles. The key point to this entire job is having a perfectly flush seal and making sure your shafts and flanges go back together in phase (or you'll get irritating vibrations).

You can pull the lower shock mount bolts too so you get more droop from the axle (for more working room). Its a lot easier to do this job on a lift than on the ground, but either will work.

 

[BullElk]

Inspect the flange for a groove where the seal sits. That may be causing the leak. Just like on an 80 series axle.

 

[Ohiolc100]

ok, thanks guys. There was another thread on here talking about preloading bearings or something, maybe i misunderstood and they where talking about different seals but i just couldn't see how there would be anything critical going on here, so thanks for confirming.

 

[nissanh]

ok, thanks guys. There was another thread on here talking about preloading bearings or something, maybe i misunderstood and they where talking about different seals but i just couldn't see how there would be anything critical going on here, so thanks for confirming.

Don't use an impact gun because you cannot count the number of turns the nut has to spin to come off. When you are ready to install the nut, make sure you spin it ONLY the exacy number of turns you spun to take the nut out. Usually the locking tab will line up perfectly. That's all you got to worry about the preload when doing it on vehicle.

If you find the flange is grooved, get a new OEM flange.
Use an OEM seal, it is NOK brand (A copy is made and it is called KOK, stay away from it)

 

[Ohiolc100]

Don't use an impact gun because you cannot count the number of turns the nut has to spin to come off. When you are ready to install the nut, make sure you spin it ONLY the exacy number of turns you spun to take the nut out. Usually the locking tab will line up perfectly. That's all you got to worry about the preload when doing it on vehicle.

If you find the flange is grooved, get a new OEM flange.
Use an OEM seal, it is NOK brand (A copy is made and it is called KOK, stay away from it)

Is this step really necessary? Its not a castle nut and cotter pin, is this nut actually pre loading anything, my common sense says no, but maybe im missing something.

 

[Hulsty]

Yes, it sets all the load on the pinion bearings, setting it to the exact same position is very important, or pull the centre and check with a larger array of tools. 1st step though, check your breather isnt blocked.

 

[Nooooooooob1]

I’ve just discovered this on my 2009 made an appointment to have it replaced but will top off diff fluid in meantime. Shop said it should be under $250.