Rear diff lock actuator reassembly issues (1 Viewer)

[MHFJ]

I had a slow leak around the cover and actuator. The actuator doesn’t work because the wires got toasted by the exhaust at some point with the previous owner. That will be a project for another day. My issue is that the set bolt hole on the actuator won’t line up with the shaft fork to reinsert the set bolt. The actuator is tight against the axle housing before the set bolt hole is far enough in. Any suggestions? Thanks!

 

[MHFJ]

I’m totally up a stump on this one. The actuator is in the unlocked position, the diff is unlocked, the shift fork is as far left as it will go, and the bolt hole on the actuator shaft just won’t reach with the actuator seated. Anyone happen to have an actuator that they could measure this distance?

 

[archerwolf]

FSM recommends locking the rear diff before removing the actuator and re-installing the actuator in the locked position. When I rehab'd my rear diff actuator a few months ago, I also removed the actuator in the UNlocked mode and had trouble getting the set screw to line up.

To reinstall, i used a screwdriver to manually push the diff locker fork in and lock the diff. You might have to spin the rear wheels a bit to get it to lock. I plugged the diff actuator in to the wiring harness, started up the car, and set the actuator to the locked position using the dash switch. Turned the car off and then I was able to install the actuator and the set screw lined up.

 

[ramangain]

^ this has been reported to be a working method by more than one person IIRC

 

[MHFJ]

FSM recommends locking the rear diff before removing the actuator and re-installing the actuator in the locked position. When I rehab'd my rear diff actuator a few months ago, I also removed the actuator in the UNlocked mode and had trouble getting the set screw to line up.

To reinstall, i used a screwdriver to manually push the diff locker fork in and lock the diff. You might have to spin the rear wheels a bit to get it to lock. I plugged the diff actuator in to the wiring harness, started up the car, and set the actuator to the locked position using the dash switch. Turned the car off and then I was able to install the actuator and the set screw lined up.

I guess I’m really screwed, because not only would I assume the actuator doesn’t work, but the wiring is toasted too. I’d have to take a $600 gamble on an actuator, hit it with 12v, and then reinstall. Thank you for the info!

 

[archerwolf]

On the wiring harness for the actuator (5 wires), there should be one Green and one Green/Red wire. 12V across those two will turn the motor. So 12V to one and ground to the other. Swap them to turn the motor in the other direction.

If the actuator motor doesn't work, then you could open the housing and move the gears to extend the shifter.

Man that sucks, hope it comes back together ok.

 

[l3n0x]

You could fabricate a blanking plate & stud* (to hold the diff open). That's what the PO did on mine.
*A dummy shaft it is

 

[saucebox]

I guess I’m really screwed, because not only would I assume the actuator doesn’t work, but the wiring is toasted too. I’d have to take a $600 gamble on an actuator, hit it with 12v, and then reinstall. Thank you for the info!

12V battery (any 12V, you can use a drill battery if you have one handy) and a set of alligator clip leads to the plug itself—you don't need the toasted wiring to get the actuator to work. It seems unlikely that your actuator motor is bad.

 

[MHFJ]

On the wiring harness for the actuator (5 wires), there should be one Green and one Green/Red wire. 12V across those two will turn the motor. So 12V to one and ground to the other. Swap them to turn the motor in the other direction.

If the actuator motor doesn't work, then you could open the housing and move the gears to extend the shifter.

Man that sucks, hope it comes back together ok.

That’s great info, maybe I’ll get lucky. Thank you!

 

[MHFJ]

You guys are the greatest. I was able to get the actuator working. It took a couple of bumps with 12v before it broke free, but it went. I then bumped the shaft out so the bolt would line up with the fork, reinstalled, and hit it with 12v again to hold it in the unlocked position. Thank you all! Diff lock testing

 

[archerwolf]

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH) Sometimes called the TRD Elocker, E Locker or E-Locker.

www.lowrangeoffroad.com

Hey, since the actuator motor is working (YAA!) maybe consider replacing the wiring harness with the one from Low Range Offroad. It bypasses the factory switch and locker ECU, so much simpler to install than trying repair the factory harness.

 

[MHFJ]

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH)

Ultimate Toyota Electric Locker ELocker Wiring Harness Kit by Low Range Off Road (TDI-ELWH) Sometimes called the TRD Elocker, E Locker or E-Locker.

www.lowrangeoffroad.com

Hey, since the actuator motor is working (YAA!) maybe consider replacing the wiring harness with the one from Low Range Offroad. It bypasses the factory switch and locker ECU, so much simpler to install than trying repair the factory harness.

Interesting, I didn’t even know that was a thing. Now I’m wondering what the other three wires to the actuator motor do.