Anyone have any hints on replacing the rear control arm bushings? One of mine is going south so I figure I might as well do all of them. Do you really need to replace the mounting hardware or can you reuse it.
Not sure if we are talking the same thing or not. Are you talking about the control arm that goes from axle passenger side to the frame on the drivers side? (I could have that backwards now that I think about it) If so I had some slop there as well. I pulled the bolt out and it actually looks more like the bolt is wore, more then the actual bushing itself. I will need to replace the bolt (if that is what you are calling mounting hardware). I just retightend it till I have a chance to either order one from Toyota or find one at a hardware store.
Yo...I am trying to describe the locating bars that run from the frame to the rear axle, on on each side. I have seen them called locating links, trailing arms, control arms, etc. I really don't know the true name. I'm sure someone will chime in. The drivers side bushing in the lower mount on the axle is worn.
I am sure the ones you are describing are trailing arms, the one I was thinking of is probably a controller arm. I think (C-Dan would know for sure), but I think you can either buy complete trailer arms (Big $$$ each) or you can just buy the bushings, you would have to take them to a shop and have them pressed out and the new ones pressed in, unless you have these tools. The other option is dry ice, but not sure if that would destroy the rubber around the bushing. I would recommend replacing the bolts and nuts/washers as I stated in previous message. That is where my wear or play was coming from.
Upper control arm bushings: 48702-60031 x4 $35.50 ea. lower control arn bushings: 48702-60040 x4 $37.13 ea. lateral control arm bushings: 48720-60011 x2 $17.35 ea. (lateral control arm AKA panhard rod)
Interesting footnote: The FSM states that the front suspension bolts are NOT re-usable. It does not make the same statement regarding the rear suspension bolts.
$.02 worth. Very basically a bolt stretches every time you torque it. Here is a quote from an article that sort of spells it out. <retorqueing issue for bolts> <When using bolts and nuts close to their yield point ..., retorqueing can result in stretching and yielding. This allows joint loosening, which requires that you continue to retorque - until the bolt fails in tension.> Also, as far as just replacing the bolt and not the bolt and bushing - it depends on how much tolerance you feel you can live with. Any time there is two surfaces rubbing together both will wear. One usually more than the other. Replacing the most worn will get rid of most of the play but the joint may still be outside of tolerances. Sort of like if you saw a bearing race worn would you just replace the race or the bearing/race. Bill
Cdan, which front suspension bolts are you specifically referring to? Last year when I replaced the t-bars on my 4runner, I purchased all new hardware ($$) for peace of mind. I guess pressing out the rear bushing is about the effort as replacing the bushings on the hanger bolt side of leaf springs? Some guys have used a torch (burns the rubber, of course) to expand the spring, then pound it out w/ a hammer, but a shop should be able to do it for you for a reasonable price ($15?).
[quote author=Hltoppr link=board=2;threadid=3851;start=0#msg28425 date=1058910691] Yeah Yomama, It couldn't have been from the fact that your 80 was rolled like 20 times down an embankment into a lake filled with upholstery eating fish, or something like that before you got it! :
I suppose that could have had something to do with it. : I thought it looked more like a steel gurder fell on the hood, of course that doesn't explain the bracket on the rear axle holding the trailing arms being ripped off Another tid bit after being at the frame shop twice. I still had to shorten the control arm about 1 inch to get the rear tires to line up straight....