Rear C Clip Question '73 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

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Based on the attached picture what are your recommendations? Do I grind down the long side axle c clip to make it thinner? Do they sell thinner c clips? Once the thinner c clip is installed do you have to purchase a longer center block (spacer) to make up the difference?

The short side axle went on fine. The long side is pushed in all the way.
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Forgot to mention we replaced the original differential with an ARB Locker.
 
If you grind it the clip will fall and the wheel with axle can shift outwards.
When the clip is fitted there is some room to pull the axle back so you are missing more room than only the space to fit the clip.

Did you adjust the differential and is the small gear preventing further slide in?
FJ40 370 Gear Install Toyota


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The c clip is one size fits 40 years types landcruiser, mine is a 60:

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I dont know why it would not slide in further?
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First off, thank you for the replies.

The wheels and drum are off the axle. See below. Both axles were pushed all the way in, or so I thought. You can see that the long axle was not seated all the way. I tapped on the end of the axle with a hammer and it seated just enough to drop the c clip into position.

This is my first rebuild, so I am most definitely learning as I go.

Here are some pictures of my build. Loooooong way to go.
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FWIW there are different thickness C-clips.

There is only one size C clip ("Rear axle shaft lock") for the rear axle on a stock 1973 FJ 40. For that matter, there is only one OEM part number for a C-clip from 6903 - 8007 for FJ40's.

For FJ40's from 1969 to at least 1980, thrust adjustment clearance to limit the horizontal movement of the axles is accomplished with different thickness center blocks ("pinion spacers") and new or different thickness 'washers' (differential side gear thrust no.1 or no. 2 washers) behind the 'spider' gears ("differential side gear" or "pinion gear") that drive the axles. There were different combinations for different axle arrangements. This is in accordance with the FSM, and the OEM parts manuals, that list different thickness of blocks and washers.
 
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:smokin: I have been searching for the other C-clip :hillbilly:
ARB only lists one, but maybe there are others (DANA axles?) but I don't know.
ARB RD153 Toyota 8.9",C-clip,50mm BRNG 30 All RD08,RD124
Anyway here is a pic of washers (my hj came with 1.75mm) and when installing a lokka they can be individually shimmed to get the exact measurement, but that is hair size micrometer stuff:

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Aren't those spider gear shims?

I suppose you could call them shims, however a washer is the specific, common name for an annular shim.

Since the actual Toyota name for these parts in HJ60's post says differential washer, anyone trying to buy these from Toyota would have better chances getting the part by using the Toyota word 'washer' and not 'shim.'
 
I did not say they were from the factory. The lunch box lockers come with 3 different thickness, just saying that there are different thickness C-lips that fit the fj40 semi float axle.
 
Figured I'd solve this for somebody who may run into this in the future. I just ran into this issue last night while upgrading to chromoly axle shafts. After scratching my head for a few hours, I figured out what the problem was. The chromoly and other after market shafts has a lip on the back side which makes the wheel mating flange wider than the stock axle shafts. On both ends of your axle housing where the wheel bearings slide in, there is a metal collar or sleeve that hangs over the end a bit. If its old and especially rusted, it may look like its just a solid metal continuation of the end of the axle housing but they aren't. They weren't all the way seated on mine, and my axle shafts were being stopped by the collars before they could be inserted deep enough to get the C clips on. Use a wider rear wheel bearing installer punch or a flat piece of steel laid over the ends of your axle housing and beat the collars on both sides all the way flush. This should give you the clearance to get the C clips installed easily.

-Kyle
 
Figured I'd solve this for somebody who may run into this in the future. I just ran into this issue last night while upgrading to chromoly axle shafts. After scratching my head for a few hours, I figured out what the problem was. The chromoly and other after market shafts has a lip on the back side which makes the wheel mating flange wider than the stock axle shafts. On both ends of your axle housing where the wheel bearings slide in, there is a metal collar or sleeve that hangs over the end a bit. If its old and especially rusted, it may look like its just a solid metal continuation of the end of the axle housing but they aren't. They weren't all the way seated on mine, and my axle shafts were being stopped by the collars before they could be inserted deep enough to get the C clips on. Use a wider rear wheel bearing installer punch or a flat piece of steel laid over the ends of your axle housing and beat the collars on both sides all the way flush. This should give you the clearance to get the C clips installed easily.

-Kyle

Interesting. I have pulled a dozen or so axleshafts over the years where the collars have ‘walked’ slightly from their fully seated position. I never considered the possible consequence of them running into the splash washer.
 
As part of my drivetrain maintenance (knuckles, wheel bearings, tie rods, center link) I ordered my parts from Kurt and Bryce at Cruiser Outfitters. In the rear I am putting in new wheel bearings and seals on my '79 semi-float. Bryce sent me a little package of C clips. Today I checked the C clips I took out to be .130 thick. In the package were two C clips that check .135, two that check .130, one at .119 and one at .140.
 
Did your ARB come with the c-clip pack?

C-clips are available in varied thicknesses. On an ARB I would alter the thickness of the C-clips not the side gear shim. If you get in a bind we stop both the clips and the different thickness side gear shims for other applications.
 

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