Rear Brake & Parking Brake Guts Help?

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So, various screw-ups while Trying to track down a sound ( while driving ) like a metal wire scraping steel. Seems to be coming from the back, And stops when I hit the brakes. Going in to the parking brakes now. I do not know what looks normal and what does not. Posting a few pictures for some feedback. Right side first. No scraping sound when I turn the rear wheels while lifted off the ground.

Also have this part that fell off (squealer), can’t seem to get a thing back in--does it go on from the brake pad side and push through or just push through from the other side and then you hook the brake pad into it?

Pulled the wrong bolts at first (the ones holding the brake pad cage and not the whole assembly) and don't know the torque spec. Whole-assembly torque spec is 65 ft-lbs according to FSM, don't see a spec for the cage bolts.

See some metal shavings (normal?)

Cannot see a way to get rear left caliper assembly off rotor without disconnecting brake line. Either there some trick I'm missing, or the guy who did the brakes used a short line and put it on after he put the caliper assembly in place.

And what's this "match mark" thing in the FSM that I totally missed? Have I screwed anything up?

Parking brake hasn't worked since I drove a few miles with it on maybe a year back. Happy to adjust if I can, or disable 'til I can fix it if not.

Thanks for any help!

TOP VIEW
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BOTTOM VIEW
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METAL SHAVINGS
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"SQUEALER" PART THAT FELL OUT WITH BRAKE PAD
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The piece the fell out is a "squeeler", tells you when the pads are worn down enough to change.
Keep it, or loose it, makes no difference if you do 5kmi inspections as part of the oil change.
 
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The parking brake looks fine, if un-used. The filings are interesting, look around with a flash light and you should see a shiny ring on something steel, based on they appear to be magnetic. They could be just part of the parking brake drum too, considering you drove with it engaged.

To adjust the parking brake turn the star wheel in the middle of the jack screw (between the brake pads in bottom pick). I haven't had to adjust mine yet, but if these are like every other rear drum brake I've ever seen there will be a rubber plug (inspection port cover) in the dust shield right behind the jack screw. Put the break assembly back together and the mount the rim, then spin the wheel, you shouldn't feel any drag.
Pull the inspection port plug and reach in with a screw driver and run the star to tighten the brake. Go a few teeth and spin the wheel. Repeat until you just barely, ever so slightly hear the pads touch, then back off a couple of teeth. Repeat with other side.
Check parking break handle movement, should stop between 7 and 11 clicks (going by memory)

I'm going to go check the FMS about the match mark thing...
 
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Match Marks, you needed to put them on the hub and the disk before removing the disk from the hub. Not sure why its important to have the disk radially timed to the hub; balance perhaps, but there no guarantee the wheel's going to go back over the same studs, unless you match mark those too.
 
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Match Marks, you needed to put them on the hub and the disk before removing the disk from the hub. Not sure why its important to have the disk radially timed to the hub; balance perhaps, but there no guarantee the wheel's going to go back over the same studs, unless you match mark those too.
Well I did not do that. So will I spontaneously combust going down the road? I did take a lot of pictures though, so I think I’ve got it back on the way it was.
 
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probably blow the head gasket....
Hasn’t happened in 227,000 miles, fingers crossed!

Have been told it’s easy to get the squealers back on. I cannot get them to pass through the metal chutes/guides. When I try to force them with a punch, they start to bend out of shape.

On top of that, when I put the brake pads back in and try to put the assembly over the rotor, the brake pads are not far enough apart to allow the rotor to pass between them. Is there a way to push the caliper farther down?
 
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The parking brake looks fine, if un-used. The filings are interesting, look around with a flash light and you should see a shiny ring on something steel, based on they appear to be magnetic. They could be just part of the parking brake drum too, considering you drove with it engaged.

To adjust the parking brake turn the star wheel in the middle of the jack screw (between the brake pads in bottom pick). I haven't had to adjust mine yet, but if these are like every other rear drum brake I've ever seen there will be a rubber plug (inspection port cover) in the dust shield right behind the jack screw. Put the break assembly back together and the mount the rim, then spin the wheel, you shouldn't feel any drag.
Pull the inspection port plug and reach in with a screw driver and run the star to tighten the brake. Go a few teeth and spin the wheel. Repeat until you just barely, ever so slightly hear the pads touch, then back off a couple of teeth. Repeat with other side.
Check parking break handle movement, should stop between 7 and 11 clicks (going by memory)

I'm going to go check the FMS about the match mark thing...
Yeah I adjusted the RR all the way up (turning wheel skyward, or counterclockwise viewed from the rear bumper). So there should be no contact, ever (for now). Can't get the LR caliper assembly off without disconnecting brake line, so will try to do same through inspection/access port.

I hear what seems like a rubbing sound when I put the rotor on and turn it. No sound when rotor off (except the LR side rub sound). Not sure if that's normal? Should it be soundless?

At any rate, none of this sounds remotely like the metal-wire-on-steel scraping sound that caused me to go looking. The rear brake pads I can see look very thick, so not the squealers. What the hell is it?

Can't get the caliper assembly back on (not enough room between brake pads); will try @Comet suggestion for this .

Does anyone know the right torque for the caliper (brake pad cage) bolts I loosened by mistake?

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Pop the top of the master cylinder off. It releases the pressure in the system and unless your caliper is stuck, you should be able to press the piston back flush and get the space you need to get the pads over the rotor.

Metal shavings look similar to what mine looked like when I was in there recently.
 

ppc

M Go Blue
 
 
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Have you separated the two sections of the caliper by removing the two "slide pins" as shown in the bottom diagram below? I take it you were able back off the parking brake adjustment via the rubber plug on the front face of the rotor when the rotor is positioned with that access hole at the bottom. The wear indicators can be a bit difficult to put on the pads but once done properly it will require very little effort to then insert the pads back into the rotor.

Once the rotor is back on use a couple of lug nuts to secure the rotor then adjust the parking brake. Tighten the adjuster so the rotor will not turn then back it off approximately 8 clicks until you can't hear it dragging. Test by pulling the handbrake a few times before buttoning it up and putting the tire back on. You may also need to adjust the slack in the cable at the base of the handbrake lever.
1914207
 
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Match Marks, you needed to put them on the hub and the disk before removing the disk from the hub. Not sure why its important to have the disk radially timed to the hub; balance perhaps, but there no guarantee the wheel's going to go back over the same studs, unless you match mark those too.
No, you don't need to do that.
 
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Have you separated the two sections of the caliper by removing the two "slide pins" as shown in the bottom diagram below? I take it you were able back off the parking brake adjustment via the rubber plug on the front face of the rotor when the rotor is positioned with that access hole at the bottom. The wear indicators can be a bit difficult to put on the pads but once done properly it will require very little effort to then insert the pads back into the rotor.

Once the rotor is back on use a couple of lug nuts to secure the rotor then adjust the parking brake. Tighten the adjuster so the rotor will not turn then back it off approximately 8 clicks until you can't hear it dragging. Test by pulling the handbrake a few times before buttoning it up and putting the tire back on. You may also need to adjust the slack in the cable at the base of the handbrake lever.
View attachment 1914207
I removed the entire brake assembly. The pins you refer to must be what I loosened by mistake when I meant to take the whole thing off. I have not removed the pins or separated the piece they're holding. Thanks!
 
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ppc

M Go Blue
 
 
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Remove the pins as you are ready deep into the process. The pins need to be lubricated with high temp disc brake grease so that the caliper properly floats on the rotor. The pins also have rubber boots to keep water and dust out. All of the necessary parts are included in the Toyota rebuild kit which is low cost so don't skimp.
 
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Remove the pins as you are ready deep into the process. The pins need to be lubricated with high temp disc brake grease so that the caliper properly floats on the rotor. The pins also have rubber boots to keep water and dust out. All of the necessary parts are included in the Toyota rebuild kit which is low cost so don't skimp.
Don’t have any of that on hand, cannot get the DS brake assembly off, and I’m on foot ‘til this goes back together, so raincheck on that... :)
 
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Remove the pins as you are ready deep into the process. The pins need to be lubricated with high temp disc brake grease so that the caliper properly floats on the rotor. The pins also have rubber boots to keep water and dust out. All of the necessary parts are included in the Toyota rebuild kit which is low cost so don't skimp.
Also
Remove the pins as you are ready deep into the process. The pins need to be lubricated with high temp disc brake grease so that the caliper properly floats on the rotor. The pins also have rubber boots to keep water and dust out. All of the necessary parts are included in the Toyota rebuild kit which is low cost so don't skimp.
TORQUE SPECS:

Either I'm mixed up here, or the 1996 LC FSM is mixed up. I see this (photos coming in a moment)....

65 ft-lb torque spec on the CALIPER pins (sliding main pin / sliding sub pin)
76 ft-lb torque on the TORQUE PLATE (that holds the caliper).
And then later it seems to say 65 ft-lb on the whole assembly (which presumably means the TORQUE PLATE that holds the caliper?)

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ppc

M Go Blue
 
 
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My 94 manual states 65 ft-lb for both the slide pins and what you call the torque plate. The difference between the two specs is minimal and there is going to be variance in your torque wrench unless it was recently professionally calibrated.
 
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My 94 manual states 65 ft-lb for both the slide pins and what you call the torque plate. The difference between the two specs is minimal and there is going to be variance in your torque wrench unless it was recently professionally calibrated.
Mine too--then it says 76 for the latter. Maybe I'll just split the difference. Wrench is newly calilbrated. Thanks for the info. Last time I watched someone else do it. Looked easy. Apparently they knew what they were doing. Mostly...
 
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Remove the pins as you are ready deep into the process. The pins need to be lubricated with high temp disc brake grease so that the caliper properly floats on the rotor. The pins also have rubber boots to keep water and dust out. All of the necessary parts are included in the Toyota rebuild kit which is low cost so don't skimp.
Rear brake assembly back in place, but pads are rubbing on disc, making it hard to turn. Will this resolve itself once pins and mounting bolts are properly torqued and brakes applied? (Snugged just past finger tight now.) Thanks!
 
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