Rear Brake Caliper question (1 Viewer)

[KillerBox]

This weekend I noticed a grinding noise coming from my left side rear brake. So I bought some pads Wagner PD773 pads from my local auto parts store.

I noticed the back of the rotor wasn’t smooth because the pad had no material left on it. Naturally they didn’t have a new rotor and caliper in stock. So I put it back together with just the new pads.

I regreased the caliper pins (they didn’t seem frozen) but, the caliper seemed stiff when I pushed it back in. But, it wasn’t leaking and did go back in.

I have only driven 10 miles and that brake seems hot. Do you all think it is because of the rough rotor and eventually it will get better or do I need to replace the rotor, caliper and etc?

If so, any parts & part numbers do you all recommend?

Thank you for your help!

 

[KillerBox]

P.S. The new brakes are not making any noise but, just hotter on the side with the rough rotor.

To be honest both rear brakes are hotter than the front. But, I just figured that was because of the new pads because the rear right brake was perfectly fine when I changed it.

 

[suprarx7nut]

How are you measuring the temp?

I wouldn't suspect calipers are needed.

I would not necessarily expect the rotors to smooth much over time. I'd replace the rotor.

 

[GTV]

Jack the rear up and spin the wheels. Feel/hear any drag?

 

[KillerBox]

I am measuring the temp by my hand and smelling the pads. After 10 miles, the front brakes are cool. The right rear is probably 20 degrees warmer than the front. The left rear that had the rough rotor is probably 40 degrees warmer than the front. I have only driven it 3 different times (1 mile, 1 mile & 10 miles).

 

[KillerBox]

I didn't notice any drag when I put everything back together but, have not jacked up since then.

 

[3_puppies]

inner pad is worn out, how is the outer pad? if it has lots of material left you have an issue

 

[KillerBox]

Inner pad was wore completely to the metal. The outer pad had about 1/3 material on it. The passenger side had 1/2 material on it (inner & outer).

So my guess was it caliper pins or piston was frozen. So I regreased the pins and was able to push the piston in but, it was stiffer than the other side.

 

[gregnash]

Inner pad was wore completely to the metal. The outer pad had about 1/3 material on it. The passenger side had 1/2 material on it (inner & outer).

So my guess was it caliper pins or piston was frozen. So I regreased the pins and was able to push the piston in but, it was stiffer than the other side.

You got a sticky caliper on that side. Time to see what is going on with the piston. You could potentially take the rotor to an autoparts store and have them turn it for you. I know that my local NAPA and O'Reilly's both turn rotors and drums.

 

[cjmoon]

I’ve started rebuilding calipers when I do brake jobs. With the age the seals and grim build up. Toyota sells seal kits. $18 for the rear. They come in pairs. Rears are easy to pop the pistons with air. Front is a challenge have to keep all of them coming out at the same time using Pads and spacers c-clamps. Other wise a pain to remove. Lots of brake clean and emery paper to polish up the pistons.

I have access to ultrasonic cleaning which speeds Up the cleaning process and makes the calipers look better and prepped for paint if I wanted to. But not needed.

 

[gregnash]

Nice... yeah having the ultrasonic cleaner has been awesome when I was doing things to my 60. I was able to get a smaller 4L one that was heated as well for less than $200. Would be nice to have a bigger one to do things like full sized brake calipers but its all good. Let us know how the cleaning and rebuild process goes when you do it.