Rear brake adjusting

[LifeOverland]

I've had rear brake issues since I got my 'new' 62. The PO said he would have to adjust the rear brakes every so often and they would get looser as time passed. I adjusted them this evening turning the adjustment nut, but I went to far. The driver side is heating up like mad. In Drive or reverse there is no movement. I can't get it to adjust back in though. I'm pretty sure I've got the Ebrake auto adjust arm out of the way, it just won't budge. Has anyone dealt with this??

 

[Richmond]

Coming from an old parts guy: time to replace your brake hardware. You can get a "Brake Hardware Kit" from your local auto parts store and they are pretty good quality. This is just a set of springs for all out replacement in both sides of your rear drums. Honestly these should be replaced every 2 or 3 brake jobs but very few people ever do that. You may want to buy shoes while your in there, but you definitely need new hardware if they fall out of adjustment that quick and require them to be manually adjusted.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

If you or the PO never use the e-brake, then that's why the rears go out of adjustment.

However, your most pressing issue is the locked up brake.

Are you using a pair of screwdrivers or just one? The adjuster will only go in one direction unless you use another tool to lift the lever engaging the toothed wheel of the adjuster. If the pair of screwdrivers don't cut it, then find the proper curved tools at a parts store.

 

[2mbb]

It's like Wile E. says, you need to use two screwdrivers one to lift the lever, the other to turn the adjusting wheel (or one screw driver and one brake adjusting tool). The lever, when engaged, only allows the wheel to tighten and prevents the wheel from loosening.

I can't seem to do it the way it's shown in the manual where you disengage the lever by pressing it outward from under the adjusting bolt. I've written myself a note in the margin of my manual,

"put driver in access slot towards front of vehicle. Lay the driver on top of the adjusting bolt. Push the driver outward to disengage the lever".

Good Luck.

 

[Trapper50cal]

try above and further back then the starnut. It may be different in the 62 but that's what works in my 60 (wish I had a pick of the inside-you always need that view to adjust your brain but only when you cant get the drum off to look)

 

[2mbb]

The lever is indicated by the red arrow. There is very little of the lever available below the adjusting bolt. That why I try and find it above the adjusting bolt.

 

[Trapper50cal]

yup, in each case you can see that "behind" the starwheel (further back on the truck) there is a little tab "above" the crossmember holding the starwheel. This area corresponds to the backmost edge of the grommeted opening.

I think...

By trapper50cal at 2009-04-28

black circles

 

[chicago]

So the rear brakes ARE self adjusting?
I was always of the impression that they werent as I have to adjust mine by hand from time to time. I also set the E brake every time I put it in park.

Chicago

 

[LifeOverland]

"put driver in access slot towards front of vehicle. Lay the driver on top of the adjusting bolt. Push the driver outward to disengage the lever".

Good Luck.

This is exactly what I had to do! Thanks for all the helpful info. After I went and bought the curved tool and used this modified method it was a snap. The screwdriver just didn't have enough bite on the star wheel, almost rounded it off actually.

On the Hardware rebuild kit, the PO said he just rebuilt the rears (fronts as well) and couldn't ever get it right after that. I have a bag full of extra springs he gave me. I think I need to just take some time and pull the drums off and inspect everything, if for no other reason than just to understand it all. This is my first experience with drum brakes!!

Thanks again

 

[2mbb]

So the rear brakes ARE self adjusting?
I was always of the impression that they werent as I have to adjust mine by hand from time to time. I also set the E brake every time I put it in park.

Chicago

It's supposed to be self adjusting. When you set the parking brake, there is a cable that connects the long lever to the bell crank that pulls the long lever in the direction of the green arrow. This in turn pivots the adjusting lever (red arrow) such that the adjusting tab lifts above the star wheel (blue arrow). When you release the parking brake the adjusting tab engages the star wheel and rotates the outboard side down to make the adjustment. I guess if the brake is already tight the star wheel doesn't move.

All my parts seem to be in good working order, by I too have to manually adjust my rear brakes from time to time...

 

[Richmond]

Remember this is springs we are dealing with, not hard pieces of flat steel. Springs loose their bounce over time, which is why a hardware kit is necessary every few brake jobs. If the springs that hold the shoes on and in adjustment have lost a lot of their bounce, adjustment becomes necessary by hand because the parking brake stops adjusting them enough.

 

[wngrog]

Every few brake jobs?

How often are you guys going through rear drums? I have always known them to last a very long time.

 

[Mace]

Every few brake jobs?

How often are you guys going through rear drums? I have always known them to last a very long time.

Takes me a Loooonnnggg time as well..

 

[lehiguy]

Rear DISK BRAKES!!!! It's pretty cool to be able to stop after years of lack-luster brake performance...

 

[Wile E Coyote]

So the rear brakes ARE self adjusting?
I was always of the impression that they werent as I have to adjust mine by hand from time to time. I also set the E brake every time I put it in park.

Chicago

Keith, have you checked the operation of the bellcranks? If they're frozen, then the e-brake doesn't work. E-brake no-worky=brakes no adjusty. Check your fsm for specifics if any of this isn't clear. (I know you have one, hehe)

 

[Richmond]

I haven't had to do my drums yet on my rig, but through my prior experience with owning an 87 Buick GN for 6 years I trashed my brakes in that car. I did rear brakes 3 times in 6 years and replaced the hardware kit the third time. But as a previous parts jockey it was an add on item that I made sure to push to anyone that was doing brakes in an older car. It saved people lots of time and future problems.

 

[chicago]

Keith, have you checked the operation of the bellcranks? If they're frozen, then the e-brake doesn't work. E-brake no-worky=brakes no adjusty. Check your fsm for specifics if any of this isn't clear. (I know you have one, hehe)

Yeah.
I went through all that stuff when I first got it, and again when I did the SOA. The first time around that BEOTCH was FROZE. I got it working freely, but I did NOT replace the springs and such. From time to time when the e brake pull is long, Ill crawl under there and put a few clicks on the adjustment manually.
I had been kicking around the idea of a RDB conversion, but I havnet heard one good solution to the e brake problem.

K

 

[ElliottB]

Rear DISK BRAKES!!!! It's pretty cool to be able to stop after years of lack-luster brake performance...

Unfortunately, not all of us need the 10.5" diff that goes along with large rear discs. (i.e. 14 bolts!)

 

[lehiguy]

Unfortunately, not all of us need the 10.5" diff that goes along with large rear discs. (i.e. 14 bolts!)

I didn't use the plow share version, I used the smaller semi floater 14-bolt. It's still a tough little beast but doesn't make grooves in the ground when off road. It's also available in a six-lug version so I could keep my wheels. The axle shafts are larger than the Toyota axle and are 33-spline instead of 30 spline. It's a good choice if you need something cheap and sturdy with a centered diff and some ground clearance. And there are several options for lockers available. End hijack.