rear body mounts (2 Viewers)

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I used this, came with Eastwood internal frame coating, nozzle has 5 holes, pretty good pattrrn
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Boy, I hate it so, but I can make a job last forever!
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But it sure does look good!

Tomorrow gonna work on getting the brake in. It’s gonna live between the front seats more on the passenger side so as to miss the rear heater.

If that goes well I will get all the parts off the now parts rig to do the clutch.

Then will be on to the dog house to get it trimmed to clear the shock towers. If I got to that by the end of the week i would really feel good.
 
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Looking at my bell housing connection I have 5 bolts that hold it to the engine-2 on each side and one on the top left. There are two places that do not have bolts (marked w orange tape). The one at the top just doesn’t line up and the one on the right, the empty hole, has no hole in the engine block. Should I drill and tape that one on the right or do you think that 5 bolts are enough to hold this thing together?
Thanks
 
I got a fly wheel and clutch plate from AA, and bunch of bolts.

Looking at the fly wheel there are 12 threaded holes and 2 smooth holes.

I was given
8 black bolts that have heads w flanges and no shoulder.

6 black bolts w no flanged head and a 1/2 in or so shoulder.

And no dowels that I can find.

The pressure plate I have cf165473s has 6 holes to be used to attach to the FW.

The flanged bolts are able to bolt all the way down but I have 8 of them. They fit into only six of the twelve which do line up w the Pplate, while the non flanged bolts fit into the other six holes in the FW but don’t tighten all the way down because of the shoulder.

Extra bolts and holes are just to accommodate for different pressure plate combinations?
Or am I missing something?
 
Extra bolts and holes are just to accommodate for different pressure plate combinations?
It sounds like they are multi fit, but I have no first hand. :hmm:
 
I am not sad about the bell housing. With your guys help it’s a go. The inspection plate needed a little amending but it’s all fit up, pilot bearing is in, flywheel is torqued down, and I am ready to instal but for the clutch pressure plate- hopefully just a matter of six bolts.

All the videos that I have watched show the pressure plate, with the clutch positioned inside, pushed right up to the fly wheel and then the bolts are tightened. When I put mine up there is a gap. About the width of the clutch. I am imagining that it will pull in when I tighten the six bolts.
More questions for AA.

Funny I had bought the TO hub and went to fit it on and there was a ton of slop. Turns out that PO had cut off the input shaft sleeve and welded a I guess a Chevy sleeve. So I had to get another sleeve plate. All is good now on that end. Kurt at SOR helped me out.

Pretty cool finally knowing all these new terms- input shaft, TO bearing, pressure plate, pilot bearing…
 
Any big deal taking this off? As in messing with the internals and such.
I would rather use the 80 flange.

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Just undo that nut and swap?
You need to make sure you get the pinion bearing pre-load correct. 40/55s used shims to do this, and then at a certain point (I don't know what year), Toyota went to the crush sleeve. So I would think the 2 different flanges would be incompatible.
 
Learned some new stuff.

Fj55 pinions are a coarse spline, while fj60s and on are a fine spline pinions.

I don’t really understand why but I have heard that the fine spline is better.

Stronger or just easier to manufacture?
40s went to fine-spline pinion in '78. I imagine 55s followed a similar timeline.

My '78 40 was built in Sep of '77 - it is coarse spline pinion.

Fine spline = more surface area to carry torque.
 
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