rear body mounts (16 Viewers)

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Well!
I have this rather extensive backlog of memory related to this topic which involves my dealing with “death wobble” shortly after converting to Scout PS. Before the PS I’d done the Man-A-Fre shackle reversal. Made a thread on Mud in the 40/55 section. Went through EVERYTHING. Replaced all TRE’s, replaced wheel bearings, knuckle bearings (set proper preload), set toe-in, checked caster (+2 degrees or something like that, not optimal, but not enough to cause this issue) got new tires, etc.. etc... death wobble would not go away. Last resort installed a stabilizer similar to what @xtiaan2000 has here and, poof, it’s gone.
Fast forward 15 years or so and I’m reading this post by Dave G. (4+Plus) about optimal suspension geometry and how your ideal (ideal) front leaf spring setup has both eyes level, or at the same height from the ground. For several reasons he goes into depth, interestingly enough some instances of unequal heights behaving in death wobble characteristics. So out of curiosity, I measure all the solid axle leaf-sprung front ends at my place of employment, and find a few discrepancies. Pretty much every Ford had the front (hanger) higher than the rear (shackle) from the late 70’s to 2000’s.
Late 70’s Blazer, same thing. The only thing I found that had equal spring eye heights was a 4wd 1955 Chevy (NAPCO), with shackles in the front.
So I go home and check my setup. The front hangers place the front spring eye like 1-1/2” lower than the rear, totally opposite of what everything else is, and I understand why. They tried to build this kit to satisfy several things - keep axle centralized in the wheel well, maintain acceptable driveline angle, get caster, as close as possible, prevent rear hangers from having to be cut off and moved. Or maybe this was all afterthought for future versions. Either way, they failed at satisfying most of these, an my thinking is that the springs laying in a downward direction contribute more to the death wobble than almost anything else. Longer shackles in the front cause the same problem.
JMack’s Target Carrier was brought up, but remember all the work he did to his front suspension? Front shackles through the frame. His spring eyes appear to be either level, or higher in the front.

Sorry about the long winded hijack 😄😓
 
Longer shackles in the front cause the same problem.
Got it, I also know now why my local LC parts guy told me no to overdo it with the shackles. :beer:
 
JMack’s Target Carrier was brought up, but remember all the work he did to his front suspension? Front shackles through the frame. His spring eyes appear to be either level, or higher in the front.
Rear is 20 3/4"
Front is 21 1/2"
So yes higher in the front, but I believe trying to get these numbers without major modifications would be impossible and not have inverted shackles driving over parking lot speed bumps.

It’s not rocket surgery longer lift springs need longer shackles so it’s the nature of the beast and our options are limited. In my opinion unless you go to something like the Liquid Iron Industries Slider Box Kit then the best option is run the stiffest shackle bushing’s you can find and cut and turn with 6° plus of caster and drive on.
 
On a 2" - 3" lift, probably not as much of a concern. Shackles are only a little longer than stock. But when you start going 4" and beyond is when things start getting wonky. That intermediate area between 4" and 6" SUA. Without being a rocket surgeon, I can think of a couple ways to address the issue. Unfortunately, it involves a little work and a deviation from OEM, which most people aren't doing these days.
 
I had heard to just get that 6 degree and move on.

By the way where did you find that degree symbol? Can’t seem to find it on my phone.
 
Hahaha
It’s not rocket surgery to those who have built rockets. :)

I did not get the chance to measure but will tomorrow. Hell about working! I guess it builds balance and challenge.
Have been pondering upgrades to the front end. I have heard of 4x4labs has this thing called the frombi or something like that. It puts the tie rod on the back side of the axle housing. They also offer 1 ton tres. Since I have bent my tie rod on a rock (stil running it regardless) seems like a good direction.
By the way I have a 55 housing w 62 knuckles out. Scout 2 steering box set up with hydro potential. (Does that make sense?) Am going to move back to the 62 housing because of that cool stock gusset.
 
Actually a welding question.
I have all these 1/8 inch holes in the floor and roof. Should I weld Roof on outside inwards or opposite? Floor from outside or inside?
On the roof I have noticed that the metal volcanos inside out.

Sorry simple tech?
 
On a 2" - 3" lift, probably not as much of a concern. Shackles are only a little longer than stock. But when you start going 4" and beyond is when things start getting wonky.

I was given that same advice when I first installed my ~3” lift and it cost me a bunch of time and money chasing a sketchy driving pig.

According to the data base on the alignment machine my factory land cruiser came with + 1.5° of caster after installing my 3” lift it had –2° of caster with only “a little longer than stock shackles” and it was miserable to drive at any speed.

I added caster shims and they made it marginally better but still nothing like it is now, I believe if a guy with @xtiaan2000 ability is lifting his land cruiser better advice is “plan to do a cut and turn and add 6 plus degrees of caster” especially if they’re adding power steering at the same time, if building a road race pig the only down side with the increased caster being some increase steering effort at high speeds and if you go too far past 8° I hear bump induced death wobble becomes an issue.

I hope this doesn’t come across as argumentative, just trying to share my perspective and some background on why I believe what I do.


By the way where did you find that degree symbol? Can’t seem to find it on my phone.

Alt +248 = °
 
I was given that same advice when I first installed my ~3” lift and it cost me a bunch of time and money chasing a sketchy driving pig.

What I said there isn’t really advice as much as it is thinking out loud. Everyone has their own experience in this area, mine happens to be different than yours.
From what I’ve seen, a 2 - 3” lift doesn’t cause most people death wobble problems. Stockish steering retained, stock steering stabilizer more than likely masks any issue that would cause death wobble. Didn’t happen with you, okay. A longer than stock shackle in front changes several things. The shims can change the caster but they’re not changing the suspension geometry.
From the earlier pics, @xtiaan2000 already has the lift installed, thick end of the shims facing the front to help gain positive caster. Shackles look from the picture to be about 2” longer than stock.(?) This is why I brought the spring eye level and the spring angle up to begin with. Lift is on, shims are in, without stabilizer, still has DW.



According to the data base on the alignment machine my factory land cruiser came with + 1.5° of caster after installing my 3” lift it had –2° of caster with only “a little longer than stock shackles” and it was miserable to drive at any speed.

Miserable to drive at any speed = death wobble or what?
 
Miserable to drive at any speed = death wobble or what?
As I was told the factory caster was only 1.5° and my lift kit remove that and put me in the minus caster. Minus caster made my 55 a darty, wondery white knuckle thrill machine but no, death wobble was not one of the negative attributes of negative caster on my 55.

Everyone has their own experience in this area, mine happens to be different than yours.
So when you added your 3” lift with your little bit longer shackles did you take it to an alignment shop and get a printout you can share with us? Curious what the difference your kit removed from the factory caster verses mine.

Shackles look from the picture to be about 2” longer than stock.(?)
Yeah I noticed that too and the reason I suggested to take it to an alignment shop and get some accurate numbers. Pure speculation on my part but I would bet even with his caster shims he has a low amount making him rely on that dampener to keep this thing drivable.
 
As I was told the factory caster was only 1.5° and my lift kit remove that and put me in the minus caster. Minus caster made my 55 a darty, wondery white knuckle thrill machine but no, death wobble was not one of the negative attributes of negative caster on my 55
Darty, wondery, white knuckle, crack followers. Its a typical Landcruiser. My 40 was bone stock and followed every crack in the road :). Still better than my Vdubber Bus :cool:
 
As I was told the factory caster was only 1.5° and my lift kit remove that and put me in the minus caster. Minus caster made my 55 a darty, wondery white knuckle thrill machine but no, death wobble was not one of the negative attributes of negative caster on my 55.


So when you added your 3” lift with your little bit longer shackles did you take it to an alignment shop and get a printout you can share with us? Curious what the difference your kit removed from the factory caster verses mine.

My lift was altogether different. 4" cookie cutter Safari springs with the MAF shackle reversal that is supposed to be 1-1/2" more lift. The spring angles (in relation to spring eye heights) are probably similar to someone putting 2"+ longer shackles in front. Did not take to an alignment shop, did everything myself, including checking/adjusting caster and toe-in. Didn't do the C&T, but couldn't wrap my head around +/-2 degrees causing the death wobble. The handling and sheering characteristics were great, handled great. But every so often, hit the right bump at the right angle at the right speed and the death wobble goes nuts.
Anyways, my point was purely this observational thing about the springs and the levels/angles and how there could be a possible relation to actual death wobble, not just poor steering characteristics originating from too little caster. Sorry for any confusion. I haven't been able to get to a satisfactory explanation of the actual root cause of death wobble until recently.
 
So I think that my inability to get these measurements has caused me bad carma!
Sudden fixes-
Both side mirror springs have broken
Driver seat back is gone. I have been putting a igloo behind the seat to hold in place.
Inner door pull broke. Thinking it’s that nylonr piece. Hell Yeah while back I ordered the metal 3d replacement.

I think that I have aggravated Swine Flu!

Gotta get those work distractions out of the way sonI can focus on my sickness!!!

I need to get better.
 
Scrapdaddy thanks but I think the housing broke. These mirrors look like they are supposed to fold in, but I’m really not sure.

Finally got around to doing some sleuthing. I measured from the center of the spring hole to the ground. Front shackle driver was 16.5 while the passenger was 17.25. The rear driver was 20 while the passenger was 20.5.
image.jpg


I do have a wedge that I got when I purchased the longer front shackles, however I cannot remember what what degree they added.

So since I can remember the passenger side front shackle has always angled less than the driver. Which kinda matches these numbers. I have switched the leafs and still the same. Very curious, as well, both the front axle and the rear axles seem to be shifted further towards the passenger by about an inch. Another way to put it is that the body has shifted an inch towards the driver side. For many years I wheeled this thing without any rear mounts or front mounts, and then I built the mounts out as it stood without noticing whether this shift had existed. The perches on the on the front axle are stock so that illinmates the idea that I welded the perches wrong.
I am going to get the frame checked to see that it is square. This is the only thing left to explain the front shackle difference and perhaps maybe even the body shift.
Two things going on here. And all very confusing to me!!!! :(
 
Coming from the 60 world:

Some 62’s Run a SOA w/o going the cut &tuen route.

Most 60’s need a C&T to correct castor.

Allegedly 62’s have more castor stock than 60’s. Might drive a little nicer when you swap the axle housing.
 

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