Rear axle rebuild, how do I adjust bearing preload without SST? (1 Viewer)

[mdawg]

Hi, all,

In the middle of a rear axle rebuild, and I'm trying to "conscientiously" set the proper bearing preload. Not having the SST for the job (09509-25011) is making this kinda difficult.

Does anyone have any tips for getting this right without the SST?

 

[2003LC]

Have not done that so not sure. Maybe call the guys at Justdifferentials.com and ask for some advice? Good luck, will keep an eye on this post as I too am curious.

 

[fjfodee]

You talking about the spanner for the carrier bearings?

 

[Qball]

Not easy if you don't have the tool or ways to make one. They go for about 60 bucks from cdan or Beno.


...Misspelled via IH8MUD app

 

[mdawg]

No, sorry I think my original post was a little unclear. I'm referring to the wheel bearings inside the wheel hub. There is a circular bearing "nut" that needs to be torqued to ~ 43 ft lbs. I've tried torquing three screwdrivers with a cheater bar but am not getting close to the preload spec.

 

[95ToyCruiser]

You can just make the wrench outta flat stock, some bolts or pins, and a welder..

 

[SmokingRocks]

is it not at all like the front? On the front I did the hand tighten method (an old toyota tech showed me, its also detailed on a youtube video) never had an issue, nor has he. Everything seems completely OEM to me.

I know very little about the rear axle, just was told by Christo that the bearings were the same as the front (so I assume its pretty similar to the front? certainly looks that way in the FSM). I've got a bearing going out in the rear and could stand to learn more... So I stand by attentively.

 

[scrowley]

You have to make or buy tool. I made an attachment to go in the tourque wrench. Tourque amount seemed to be useless as when I tourqued it the set screw holes didn't line up perfect. I just tightened further to line up wholes. They have stayed tight for awhile now with no excessive heat. I run 37's and it seems you need more preload on bearings to keep them tight. my fronts are at 23 ft lbs ! Good luck.

 

[neal0124]

 

[neal0124]

Or you can use three screw drivers. Put one in two of the holes in the "nut", hold both of the handles together in one hand. Then insert the third screwdriver between the others and turn the nut.

Watch this vid. At about the 1:30 mark.

 

[mdawg]

I think I'll try the hand-tightening approach for now. I don't have any welding equipment (or welding skills for that matter), so if I ended up going the tool route i'll have to buy one.

When I was disassembling the hub, that lock nut was only on hand-tight, and the bearings and races appear to be in really good shape (I'm replacing them with new Timken's anyway). I'll use that rule of thumb then when I put it back together. so, we'll see

 

[mdawg]

Or you can use three screw drivers. Put one in two of the holes in the "nut", hold both of the handles together in one hand. Then insert the third screwdriver between the others and turn the nut.

Watch this vid. At about the 1:30 mark.

Hey, thanks neal0124!

I did watch that video earlier, but my pull scales wasn't getting anywhere near the ~5 ft lbs spec by using that method. Now that I think about it more, my pull scale might be crap anyway. I'm just gonna go for it using the screwdriver/cheater bar approach and kind of feel my way through it - thanks for sharing!

 

[scrowley]

That is slick! Multi purpose hub nut socket (assuming it the 54mm). I'm doing this next time I tear into the rear. Thnx

View attachment 961410View attachment 961412

 

[neal0124]

That is slick! Multi purpose hub nut socket (assuming it the 54mm). I'm doing this next time I tear into the rear. Thnx

It is. I set the socket on top of the rear nut and used a pencil to mark the locations of the studs on the nut. I then used a die grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the notches out of the socket. I started on the small side and slowly opened the notches out until they fit tight on the nut. Now I have one socket for both axles.

mdawg, I've never bothered with trying to measure the pre-load. I crank the nuts down hard at first then loosen them and then set the pre-load by feel. They're still tight after 25,000 miles.

 

[mdawg]

It is. I set the socket on top of the rear nut and used a pencil to mark the locations of the studs on the nut. I then used a die grinder with a cut off wheel and cut the notches out of the socket. I started on the small side and slowly opened the notches out until they fit tight on the nut. Now I have one socket for both axles.

mdawg, I've never bothered with trying to measure the pre-load. I crank the nuts down hard at first then loosen them and then set the pre-load by feel. They're still tight after 25,000 miles.

Yes, that is a great idea - and very innovative! One single socket that works on both front and bearing lock nuts. Way to go!

I got it all back together and it seems to be driving fine. Thanks for the tips!