Rear Axle Leaking (1 Viewer)

[guardcompany]

Noticed this last night while getting ready to install some ARB breathers. It's going in to the shop tomorrow to get checked out but just figured I'll see what Mud thinks. Based on searching it looks like possible axle seal (many great threads on that). It's interesting that I'm getting a bit of fluid at the breather too.

 

[Spike555]

A clogged breather can force gear oil out of a seal, either hub or pinion.
Since you are replacing the breathers I would replace those and see what happens, unless you are looking for something to do.
On my Land Rover I had to clear the rear axle breather once a year or the pinion seal would leak. Clear breather, leak gone. Everytime.

 

[guardcompany]

A clogged breather can force gear oil out of a seal, either hub or pinion.
Since you are replacing the breathers I would replace those and see what happens, unless you are looking for something to do.
On my Land Rover I had to clear the rear axle breather once a year or the pinion seal would leak. Clear breather, leak gone. Everytime.

Thanks. I checked it out and it wasn't clogged. Good tip though thanks!

I'm gonna replace the bearing. Here is the parts list I came up with per the FSM's "non reuseable" parts list. Anyone done this recently? Anything I'm missing? Thanks!

Oil Seal
Part Number: 9031362001

Wheel Bearing
Part Number: 9036948001

Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Part Number: 9031058002

Bearing Retainer Lock Ring
Part Number: 9052044038

Oil Seal Spacer
Part Number: 9020848002

Bearing Retainer
Part Number: 4242360030

Bearing Retainer
Part Number: 4242360040

Abs Rotor
Part Number: 4351760020

Axle Shaft Gasket
Part Number: 4244360020

Hub Assembly Wheel Stud
Part Number: 9094202083

Bearing Housing Bolt
Part Number: 9011412036

 

[Rolocado]

Thanks. I checked it out and it wasn't clogged. Good tip though thanks!

I'm gonna replace the bearing. Here is the parts list I came up with per the FSM's "non reuseable" parts list. Anyone done this recently? Anything I'm missing? Thanks!

Oil Seal
Part Number: 9031362001

Wheel Bearing
Part Number: 9036948001

Axle Shaft Oil Seal
Part Number: 9031058002

Bearing Retainer Lock Ring
Part Number: 9052044038

Oil Seal Spacer
Part Number: 9020848002

Bearing Retainer
Part Number: 4242360030

Bearing Retainer
Part Number: 4242360040

Abs Rotor
Part Number: 4351760020

Axle Shaft Gasket
Part Number: 4244360020

Hub Assembly Wheel Stud
Part Number: 9094202083

Bearing Housing Bolt
Part Number: 9011412036

Post pictures as you're going along!

 

[2001LC]

 

[guardcompany]

Quick question for you guys. Notice in my second picture ^ the breather nipple is only screwed in about half way, is that normal?

I removed it and checked the threads and it looks like its never been threaded down past half way. Is this the same on everyones? Just want to know if I should tighten it down all the way.

Thanks in advance.

 

[nissanh]

^^^ Yes.
Try here for parts and prices.
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

 

[guardcompany]

^^^ Yes.
Try here for parts and prices.
2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Parts - Camelback Toyota Parts - Genuine OEM Parts - Free Shipping

Yes half threaded is normal?

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Joining the thread.

Saw this today during a routine inspection. Driver side. 06LX470 with 240k miles on the truck.

 

[nissanh]

Remove the rotor and inspect. Dont just replace the seal, you have to check the bearing, at 240k the bearing may need to be replaced. The LC bearings are much tougher than other toyota bearings. Same goes for oil seals. Check any vertical play of the hub, there cannot be any play, however, there is a slight horizontal play. If you plan not to replace the bearing, make sure to repack the bearing with a suitable grease. I did my 97 4runner axle bearings and seals just 2 weeks ago by my self. You MUST align the inner retainer correctly so that the oil seal is running right on the middle of the retainer. Many does not do that and in 5000 to 10000k miles you will see oil seeping past the seal into hub again. The tool I used is shown in Tim's (Timmy the tool man) video "toyota axle seal repair" . Do the Sharpie test to ascertain the oil seal is running on the center of the retainer (time 48:00 mark). You basically draw few lines on the retainer with a sharpie and insert the axle into the axle-housing and tight it with 14 mm nuts and spin the hub. Then remove the axle and inspect the sharpie line, the center of the sharpie line has to be erased if the lip of the seal is running at the center of the retainer.

 

[nissanh]

Make sure to use oem seals. I used oem bearings, seals, retainers and C clips on my 4runner. The oem bearing out the box had side to side play but not vertical.

 

[OEMGUY0720]

Will mostly tackle this January 2020. Thanks nissanh. I assume both sides has to done?

 

[nissanh]

Will mostly tackle this January 2020. Thanks nissanh. I assume both sides has to done?

Not necessarly, but it is a peace of mind knowing both has been done. Make sure to check and clean the breather valve at the same time.
I bought oem bearing from partsouq for my 4runner for $54 (each) + shipping and here it is $85 + tax + shipping

The axle bearing puller tool has two functions,
(1) to remove the ABS ring and inner retainer without any damage, hence the abs ring can be reused: which I did in my 4runner
(2) To pull the bearing and outer retainer

Above (1) can be done with the tool:
For (2) I am yet to report the adaptability of the axle bearing puller tool with a LC axles. I have 2 axles and the tool maker has sent me the adapter to check its compatability.

I forgot to state, you have to install the outer dust/water seal as well.

 

[cc93cruiser]

Remove the rotor and inspect. Dont just replace the seal, you have to check the bearing, at 240k the bearing may need to be replaced. The LC bearings are much tougher than other toyota bearings. Same goes for oil seals. Check any vertical play of the hub, there cannot be any play, however, there is a slight horizontal play. If you plan not to replace the bearing, make sure to repack the bearing with a suitable grease. I did my 97 4runner axle bearings and seals just 2 weeks ago by my self. You MUST align the inner retainer correctly so that the oil seal is running right on the middle of the retainer. Many does not do that and in 5000 to 10000k miles you will see oil seeping past the seal into hub again. The tool I used is shown in Tim's (Timmy the tool man) video "toyota axle seal repair" . Do the Sharpie test to ascertain the oil seal is running on the center of the retainer (time 48:00 mark). You basically draw few lines on the retainer with a sharpie and insert the axle into the axle-housing and tight it with 14 mm nuts and spin the hub. Then remove the axle and inspect the sharpie line, the center of the sharpie line has to be erased if the lip of the seal is running at the center of the retainer.

So I just replaced my driver's side rear axle seal, the inner seal if diff housing... Still have a leak.. Couple questions, I did not do the sharpie test to see if the seal replaced was actually riding on the center of bearing retainer, but I am certain I got the seal seated the same depth the oem one was. Took a mental note and pic and before I removed original seal.. What I did notice is that the bearing retainer where the diff housing seal rides on has a slight groove that catches your finger nail if you try and scratche surface of it.. I am thinking the retainer has to be replaced with a new oem one with a smooth surface.. Was wondering if anyone has had this happen on their retainer? After 260k, the original seal must have worn a groove on the retainer.. When I go back in there, I will do the sharpie test before removing the seal I replaced last week to see if indeed it was seated correctly.. What I dumb design.. On all other oil seals I have replaced on various different land cruiser model series, an oil seal is installed until back of oil seal is fully seated in housing.. That's how you know the depth of the seal is correct.. I hard a hard time finding a correct oil seal driver to pound the seal in too (my oil seal driver kit did not have correct diameter plate for this odd size seal). Was wondering what anyone in here is using to drive in seal?

 

[2001LC]

So I just replaced my driver's side rear axle seal, the inner seal if diff housing... Still have a leak.. Couple questions, I did not do the sharpie test to see if the seal replaced was actually riding on the center of bearing retainer, but I am certain I got the seal seated the same depth the oem one was. Took a mental note and pic and before I removed original seal.. What I did notice is that the bearing retainer where the diff housing seal rides on has a slight groove that catches your finger nail if you try and scratche surface of it.. I am thinking the retainer has to be replaced with a new oem one with a smooth surface.. Was wondering if anyone has had this happen on their retainer? After 260k, the original seal must have worn a groove on the retainer.. When I go back in there, I will do the sharpie test before removing the seal I replaced last week to see if indeed it was seated correctly.. What I dumb design.. On all other oil seals I have replaced on various different land cruiser model series, an oil seal is installed until back of oil seal is fully seated in housing.. That's how you know the depth of the seal is correct.. I hard a hard time finding a correct oil seal driver to pound the seal in too (my oil seal driver kit did not have correct diameter plate for this odd size seal). Was wondering what anyone in here is using to drive in seal?

We must replace the "retainer", if any score can be felt. Even if can be seen after cleaning/buffing..

If you did not move retainer and indeed did get seal seat at same point. It is riding in same groove. Shape test will confirm.

 

[nissanh]

So I just replaced my driver's side rear axle seal, the inner seal if diff housing... Still have a leak.. Couple questions, I did not do the sharpie test to see if the seal replaced was actually riding on the center of bearing retainer, but I am certain I got the seal seated the same depth the oem one was. Took a mental note and pic and before I removed original seal.. What I did notice is that the bearing retainer where the diff housing seal rides on has a slight groove that catches your finger nail if you try and scratche surface of it.. I am thinking the retainer has to be replaced with a new oem one with a smooth surface.. Was wondering if anyone has had this happen on their retainer? After 260k, the original seal must have worn a groove on the retainer.. When I go back in there, I will do the sharpie test before removing the seal I replaced last week to see if indeed it was seated correctly.. What I dumb design.. On all other oil seals I have replaced on various different land cruiser model series, an oil seal is installed until back of oil seal is fully seated in housing.. That's how you know the depth of the seal is correct.. I hard a hard time finding a correct oil seal driver to pound the seal in too (my oil seal driver kit did not have correct diameter plate for this odd size seal). Was wondering what anyone in here is using to drive in seal?

I think the retainer or the oil seal (at least on 3rd gen 4runners) has been redesigned.

Yes do the sharpie test. The depth you said before and after may not be the same. I did it too but it failed on my 97 4runner, but the second time with the help of Sharpie test, NO MORE LEAKS!! What a relief.

 

[cc93cruiser]

C

We must replace the "retainer", if any score can be felt. Even if can be seen after cleaning/buffing..

If you did not move retainer and indeed did get seal seat at same point. It is riding in same groove. Shape test will confirm.

I think the retainer or the oil seal (at least on 3rd gen 4runners) has been redesigned.

Yes do the sharpie test. The depth you said before and after may not be the same. I did it too but it failed on my 97 4runner, but the second time with the help of Sharpie test, NO MORE LEAKS!! What a relief.

Can you guys point me to a seal driver or what did you guys use to drive the seal in without mangling metal part? I was thinking about going to hardware store and finding correct diameter size pvc pipe and using this or as mentioned what did you guys use? Thanks for replies...

 

[2001LC]

C



Can you guys point me to a seal driver or what did you guys use to drive the seal in without mangling metal part? I was thinking about going to hardware store and finding correct diameter size pvc pipe and using this or as mentioned what did you guys use? Thanks for replies...

I'm waiting on Joey (Wits'end). I requested he make us the seal drive tool. Last I heard, about a month ago. He's about ready to release for sale. Other than that, whatever you can find. Just order your seal, once in hand take with you to size up a tool from around the house or at hardware store. Or tap in old school with a stick.

 

[nissanh]

I placed the seal driver (HF tool) on the seal and hit it with a sledge hammer! VICTORY! just one hit and seal is in. I think heavy the hammer, easier to drive the seal, this is done on my 4runner.

To get the seal balanced inside the housing, use a light weight hammer (like a picture hanging kit type hammer) and tap ONLY on the outer perimeter. Once everything is aligned up, use the tool and do as I stated earlier.

 

[GVegasG]

C



Can you guys point me to a seal driver or what did you guys use to drive the seal in without mangling metal part? I was thinking about going to hardware store and finding correct diameter size pvc pipe and using this or as mentioned what did you guys use? Thanks for replies...

2” PVC works perfectly.

Rear Axle Leak

@GVegasG Sorry got a lot of questions from that last post- Was all that gear oil in the tub present when you pulled the axle? Be sure you use a new Oring with a new OEM inner seal- also curious what tool you used to install the inner seal?

forum.ih8mud.com

See my post #111