Rear Axle Disassembly BJ75 Pickup (1 Viewer)

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Folks,

I turned into a driveway that was off camber and all a sudden I hear a thunking clanking sound in the rear and no power transmitted to tires. Under very light load the truck will crawl forward and reverse, but if you load up the driveline, something is slipping and making a horrible noise.

I want to disassemble the rear axle and see what has broken or come loose. I removed the rear driveshaft from the diff bell housing but I can't get the whole bellhousing loose.

I welcome your input on the order of operations to get stuff apart.

Thanks

P.S. Here is the ToyoDIY for my specific truck (I don't know if it is full float or semi float): ToyoDIY.com - https://www.toyodiy.com/parts/g_E_198708_TOYOTA_LAND+CRUISER_BJ75LP-MRW_2.html
 
Full float looks like this. You remove the nuts and use a brass drift to hit the tip of the studs to knock the cone washers loose so you can remove them, it might take a bit of repeated hitting to convince any stubborn cone washers loose. If you already know all this then disregard my comment 😉
If you jack up the rear to get the tires off the ground and spin the tires does it make the offending sound?

78115174-B689-42B6-ACF2-1788ACE1701C.jpeg
 
Did you Jack the rear of the truck, you could try turning the wheel and see what’s going on.
Just an idea but I think it could be something related to an LSD third member?
The OEM LSD (some time found on BJ75) transmit power by friction and there is a spring between both side gear. If the spring break I guess nothing will really move…

You need to remove both shaft to free the third member. On a semi-float there is a cover on the back of the diff for removing a C-clip. No cover on a full floater.
On a full float wheel can stay on.
 


Found the culprit. A sheared bolt flopping around. The other was finger loose. Maybe not torqued to spec by whomever was in there last? The gears are definitely scratched up but not totally annihilated. Do I replace them or just extract broken bolt and reassemble?
 
so, what is the truck use for?

if its just a farm truck, put it all back together and run it.

if its a long term truck you want to rely on for many miles of reliable service, a refresh of the differential is in order.
 
What does Toyota call the ring and pinion for this model? ToyoDIY has quite a few different parts with vaguely similar names. Unclear which part numbers are required. Anyone?
 
Had a few others look at this in person and the consensus is that I need to buy a new ring gear and pinion. Ugh.

But I should say that I am still going to put it back together after very lightly cleaning it up to see if I can salvage it. I will buy the replacement ring and pinion set (final gear kit) just to be safe.
 
perfect time to regear it too if you have larger tires!!! (change gear ratio)

or add air lockers...
 
Just an update on this project: I have not driven the 70 series pick up this year and the differential has been out since early summer. I sent off the rear diff assy to Cruiser Outfitters for a rebuild with their ring and pinion offering. Nobody near to me was willing to rebuild it.

Unfortunately when the diff arrived to Cruiser Outfitters, the bench technician sent photos that the adjustment grooves for the side bearings were damaged and thought rebuilding would be not be possible. They offered me a replacement diff for a little less than the rebuild, one taken out of another vehicle. The bench technician and I also surmised that the differential that I sent it was likely not the original, or if it was, that an LSD was added by someone. This would explain the presence of the RTV gasket sealer and no paper gasket on the original differential when I removed it. This would also explain why the bearing carrier bolts were finger loose and why one snapped off causing the carnage in the first place. I also noticed that the driveshaft bolts were not factory. All the bolts and other nonsense will be return to factory spec in November when I finish this project.

Needless to say, an LSD rear diff with the same factory gearing is going back in with all factory parts. I don't have time to do the install myself this autumn, but a mechanic near me who comes well recommended will do the work. We will do all the bearings, cone washers, hub seals, diff studs, rear cylinders, shoes, and drums...etc.

More soon :)
 
Just an update on this project: I have not driven the 70 series pick up this year and the differential has been out since early summer. I sent off the rear diff assy to Cruiser Outfitters for a rebuild with their ring and pinion offering. Nobody near to me was willing to rebuild it.

Unfortunately when the diff arrived to Cruiser Outfitters, the bench technician sent photos that the adjustment grooves for the side bearings were damaged and thought rebuilding would be not be possible. They offered me a replacement diff for a little less than the rebuild, one taken out of another vehicle. The bench technician and I also surmised that the differential that I sent it was likely not the original, or if it was, that an LSD was added by someone. This would explain the presence of the RTV gasket sealer and no paper gasket on the original differential when I removed it. This would also explain why the bearing carrier bolts were finger loose and why one snapped off causing the carnage in the first place. I also noticed that the driveshaft bolts were not factory. All the bolts and other nonsense will be return to factory spec in November when I finish this project.

Needless to say, an LSD rear diff with the same factory gearing is going back in with all factory parts. I don't have time to do the install myself this autumn, but a mechanic near me who comes well recommended will do the work. We will do all the bearings, cone washers, hub seals, diff studs, rear cylinders, shoes, and drums...etc.

More soon :)

Good move on rebuilding whatever is going back in.

This is always the fatal flaw with used parts.

Fresh differential 30+ years after global use and abuse is such a good call.
 

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