Rear axle dilemma

[katit]

I am preparing to work on rear suspension overhaul. Includes sway bar, control arms and panhard bar.
There is some surface rust starts to form on rear axle and around. Ideally I'd like to take care of it.

Because I am taking out so much I have dilemma

A. Take control arms out one side at a time. Longer as I want to refurbish them, replace bushings and having all of them out would be more convenient.
B. Just pull whole axle out and get good access to everything so I can POR 15 axle and components while out of the car. Also, will have good access to frame.

So, how much harder is that to remove axle if all components listed will be out anyways?

 

[TheForger]

Well it will always be best to remove the axle if you really want to dive into the deep end and are looking to basically restore the frame in terms or getting rid of all rust. It will be much easier to access all the areas up above the axle. Have you done anything like that in the past? Make sure you have all the equipment needed; do you have jack stands tall enough to support the truck from the frame but also give you enough room to roll the axle out? Do you have flair nut wrenches for the brake lines? Make sure to matchmark driveshafts. The axle itself is not that difficult at all to remove - just a few control arms, brake hoses, breather tubes, and depending on your trucks options a couple wiring harnesses too. Don't get me wrong it's no weekend oil change, but the rear is much easier to tear into than the front. Hell while you have it out might as well replace u-joints & maybe throw a locker in it too

 

[katit]

Well it will always be best to remove the axle if you really want to dive into the deep end and are looking to basically restore the frame in terms or getting rid of all rust. It will be much easier to access all the areas up above the axle. Have you done anything like that in the past? Make make sure you have all the equipment needed; do you have jack stands tall enough to support the truck from the frame but also give you enough room to roll the axle out? Do you have flair nut wrenches for the brake lines?

I have lift in garage. It's scissor lift but I should be able to raise truck high enough to roll out axle. I just need to figure out how to lift it because currently I use lower arms mounting point as a place where I lift.

Make sure to matchmark driveshafts. The axle itself is not that difficult at all to remove - just a few control arms, brake hoses, breather tubes, and depending on your trucks options a couple wiring harnesses too. Don't get me wrong it's no weekend oil change, but the rear is much easier to tear into than the front. Hell while you have it out might as well replace u-joints & maybe throw a locker in it too

What do you mean by matchmark driveshafts? Video I've seen - he just separates driveshaft at slide joint.

Which u-joints you talking about? And what is the locker and why do I need it?

 

[saucebox]

I have lift in garage. It's scissor lift but I should be able to raise truck high enough to roll out axle. I just need to figure out how to lift it because currently I use lower arms mounting point as a place where I lift.



What do you mean by matchmark driveshafts? Video I've seen - he just separates driveshaft at slide joint.

Which u-joints you talking about? And what is the locker and why do I need it?

U-joints in the driveshaft, locker because...well, just because.

 

[katit]

U-joints in the driveshaft, locker because...well, just because.

U-Joints on driveshaft seem to be very easily accessible and don't look like "while in there" item. Or am I wrong?


Another question is AHC shocks. Do those have bushings that wear out? Do they need to be replaced?

 

[Moridinbg]

Definitely pull the axle. It's not super hard. I have nearly pristine in terms of rust HDJ100 that I am pulling apart at the moment to galvanise and future proof. The rear axle and the space above it were one of the rustiest pieces of the truck.

I believe that POR15 is a waste of time that only hides the problem. If you have the axle out it's very easy to mask around the seals and ABS sensors then blast everything and apply epoxy primer.

 

[saucebox]

U-Joints on driveshaft seem to be very easily accessible and don't look like "while in there" item. Or am I wrong?

Another question is AHC shocks. Do those have bushings that wear out? Do they need to be replaced?

Not for me either, just running from the comment before. Do the joints when they're needed, it's pretty trivial to drop the driveshaft.

 

[TheForger]

I have lift in garage. It's scissor lift but I should be able to raise truck high enough to roll out axle. I just need to figure out how to lift it because currently I use lower arms mounting point as a place where I lift.



What do you mean by matchmark driveshafts? Video I've seen - he just separates driveshaft at slide joint.

Which u-joints you talking about? And what is the locker and why do I need it?

As mentioned I was kinda kidding about the locker...kinda. I was playing off the tendency for projects to 'snowball' into much bigger things. They do have a long list of benefits so it's worth considering, but if you don't do a whole lot of offroading then I wouldn't worry about it too much. Do some Google searching on rear locking differentials and see if it's right for you. IMHO I would prioritize other things at this point.

Anyway, to answer your question matchmarking the point where the driveshaft bolts to the flange on the diff housing is very important. When it comes to reassembly you want to put things back exactly the way they were. So grab a paint pen, sharpie, or even a chisel/hammer and make some type of permanent mark where the rear driveshaft and rear diff bolt together at the flange. This way you know what orientation to reassemble it in and you'll avoid any risk of driveline vibrations. Something like this:

As for the u-joints, all you'd have to do is remove the 4 bolts at the other end of that same driveshaft (after matchmarking of course) and that entire assembly can be removed. That's not required to remove the rear axle, but it would be nice to take it out and have the u-joints replaced and the driveshaft balanced if you wanted to. Like I said this is not required, feel free to just leave the driveshaft dangling from one end if you didn't want to mess with it.

 

[katit]

I believe that POR15 is a waste of time that only hides the problem.

Why do you think so?

POR15 in my experience does very good job. If you don't need "body" finish - it will protect metal very nicely. I don't have means to "blast" and prefer not to spray anything in my backyard if possible. But wire brushing so it's all clean and perhaps some surface rust - POR 15 will take care of the rest.

 

[Moridinbg]

Because you have to have rust for POR to adhere well-ish. It adheres badly to clean metal.
Painting over rust is a no go in my book, as rust never stops working - at most it slows down.

But if you don't have the means to do the full messy job, then it's the next best thing I guess.

 

[katit]

Because you have to have rust for POR to adhere well-ish. It adheres badly to clean metal.

That is not true. It adheres badly to smooth metal. But if it's blasted or sanded #80 then it will stick just fine.
Again, this is my experience. I had it on old tractor panel for years just for fun. It went "white-ish" because it was under sun. But no rust.

 

[katit]

Raising my topic again as I am ready to start on it. Few more questions:

1. I am going to remove AHC shocks to replace bushings. I will keep old shocks. Does it make sense or not? From what I understand if they don't leak - not need to replace. But bushings on top and bottom definitely shot and need replacement (cheap parts). What is the easiest way to remove shocks? I heard it's hard to get top nut off?

2. Since I am going to remove shocks, is it best to put AHC in L or H before disassembly? I feel like L is proper so I lose least fluid. But maybe not?