Rear axle bearings pics (1 Viewer)

[Skidoo]

Seems like a discussion comes up every so often about these bearings and seals so to help discussions posting these photos.

First photo shows stack of components on top of bearing. These are all pressed on, except clip ring.
On top is the ring that provides seal surface for inner axle seal.
Second is ABS tooth wheel.
Then clip ring, and big spacer, washer then bearing. Flange of bearing hub is before cleaning and applying anti-seize.

Middle photo shows end of axle tube, note o-ring on outside of rim and gold colored inner axle seal. This seal keeps gear oil from washing grease out of bearing. I put anti-seize on flange surfaces to cut down on rust.

The last photo shows all the components pressed off axle. The bearing splits apart so it could be regreased, but no spec on with what, comes pregreased from factory. FSM says to grind seal ring and ABS wheel off, but with right fixtures they can all be pressed off.

 

[Skidoo]

This photo shows rear bearing hub and backing plate for parking brake. Behind them is axle with components stripped off, also you can see the silver colored dust shield on right side of axle flange.
Sitting on top of bearing hub is the outer axle seal, partially seated.
This outer seal is IMHO the weak link of the rear axle. This can be seated and removed by hand, so not much retention force.
On one of my axles tightening the bearing hub bolts, the drag of seal on axle would push it out. After several attempts, each with trip to shop for press work, I glued seal in with 3M weatherstrip adhesive, so far so good.
The outer axle seal is what keeps water and dirt out of the bearing, guess it also keeps grease in. Both the outer and inner seal have to fail for water to get into gear oil, unless it comes in through the seal on front of 3rd member.

 

[SupraTuRD]

The spacer that the inner seal rides on looks pretty worn. It looks just like the seal surface on the '07 FJ Cruiser at 95k miles. Can the seal on the 100 be pressed in a bit further to allow for a fresh sealing surface for the inner seal?

 

[spressomon]

The spacer that the inner seal rides on looks pretty worn. It looks just like the seal surface on the '07 FJ Cruiser at 95k miles. Can the seal on the 100 be pressed in a bit further to allow for a fresh sealing surface for the inner seal?

No...the seal pocket is relatively shallow.

 

[scottm]

Very nice, hopefully I'll be able to find this writeup if I ever need it.

I've not had much luck with anti-seize being exposed to weather, it usually washes out or dries and crumbles. But it does seem like there needs to be something there to help seal that area, like a gasket. Maybe a soft zinc shim cut as a gasket?

Why did you press everything off the axle? Is the outer bearing press-fit into the hub, slip-fit on the axle?

 

[Skidoo]

To replace outer seal or replace bearing all the components have to be pressed off axle. The bearing is pressed on to axle. The bearing hub is slip fit on outside of bearing, but is blocked by axle flange so have to press all the stuff off to free it.

That seal surface cleaned up as you see in photo of components pressed off.

 

[scottm]

I've looked at your pics, and at my FSM, and I'm still mystified at how you get in and press on the inner race with everything in the way. And how do you press on the axle shaft? I have a big press at the shop, but nothing that can accomodate the whole axle length.

 

[Skidoo]

Guy had press about 6ft tall, and lower table could be set at various levels almost to floor. Had a plate that bolted to bearing hub (in 1st pic) and fit over hole in table. He also had some split tube like fixtures for pressing off ABS wheel and other components. It was diff shop, seemed like he had a bunch of custom fixtures just for axle work.

Edit: You want to get seal ring and ABS wheel off before pressing bearing, as the only thing to press against is bearing hub rather than bearing. This removes bearing by pressing against outer race of bearing, so you want to reduce resistance. Preferred way to remove bearings is to press against race that is pressed on (inner in this case), but not an option in this design. Maybe a reason bearing should be replaced if you press it off, or bearing is designed for this type of pressing?? Bearing is pressed on using inner race.

 

[Caaarlo]

Reviving al old thread with a question:

Maybe a reason bearing should be replaced if you press it off, or bearing is designed for this type of pressing??

Any further experiences on this matter ? It would be childs play to just remove the snap ring and press everything off, instead of having to remove the seal ring and ABS wheel in first place, which requires special tools if one wishes to reuse them. My inner oil seal is gone, and I bet the bearing grease has been washed off by diff oil. But the funny thing is that the bearing feels like new, very smooth and no play at all... so I was thinking about removing the bearing and regrease, then press it back on. Will it survive the removal ?

Another option would be to keep everything in place and just drill a hole in the plastic bearing seal and regrease/repack through it, but I won't be able to inspect/replace the outer oil seal located behind the bearing.

Any hints ?

 

[YardPig]

Thank you @Skidoo for the great detailed pictures. I wonder if Toyota sells the axle assemblies complete? High price may be offset by labour and risk to rebuild these to factory spec on higher mileage unit.

 

[Skidoo]

They do not sell axle assemblies complete. BTW a bare axle shaft at a discount dealer is $667

 

[YardPig]

Ya thanks, that's a bit Ouchy. I'd like to see a disassemble/assemble procedure on a press and with bearing splitters. One day this will be staring at me.

 

[2001LC]

@Skidoo I'd not seen this thread before, good job. I was surprised to see your oil deflector was not bent, most are these days. Tire shops over torquing lugs with impact wrench bend these all the time. Then over time gasket fails.

 

[YardPig]

Part #'s?

 

[Caaarlo]

I revived this old thread some days ago expecting to collect further experiences, but it seems my comments remained unnoticed.

I am trying to repack the bearing without removing anything. Tried removing the bearing shield without luck... there is not enough space to insert and tilt a srewdriver to remove it and expose the inernals. I already made two steel hooks but the tips keeps breaking. I think the only way to do this is to drill a hole in the shield and grease the internals using a needle.

Any other ideas ?

 

[2001LC]

I revived this old thread some days ago expecting to collect further experiences, but it seems my comments remained unnoticed.

I am trying to repack the bearing without removing anything. Tried removing the bearing shield without luck... there is not enough space to insert and tilt a srewdriver to remove it and expose the inernals. I already made two steel hooks but the tips keeps breaking. I think the only way to do this is to drill a hole in the shield and grease the internals using a needle.

Any other ideas ?

Rear bearing on the 100 series are not serviceable, if they go bad they must be replaced. Only front bearing are packed ever 30K miles.

 

[Caaarlo]

If you read my earlier post on this thread, the bearing is perfect, but the grease washed off by a diff oil leak... so I have to repack. Replacing would be nonsense.

 

[Skidoo]

If you read my earlier post on this thread, the bearing is perfect, but the grease washed off by a diff oil leak... so I have to repack. Replacing would be nonsense.

There is no way to re-grease that bearing without pressing it off. If you could drill through dust shield and then rear axle bearing case AND IF your hole hit the split in outer bearing shell, AND if shells are not pressed too tightly together to let grease in. A lot of ifs. Then you would have to plug that hole so water does not get in and ruin the bearing. If you got too much grease in there it will pop the outer seal out and your bearing will die shortly after that.

 

[Hampton]

Following the FSM, I've purchased all the parts for this jobs (will post up part numbers). I had seen minor smoke coming from the rear axle when I got out of my car 2 weeks ago and had to park my daily driver handy.

After some research through mud, realized that my axle seal was a likely issue and am now also checking my rear diff breathers. Last week I rounded up all the parts and tools (HF 20 ton press, bearing splitter, press sleeve kit, all the required replacement Toyota axle parts). I got the Toyota SST 09521-25011 (pictured).

Half way through getting it all pulled apart now and I've realized I can't get it all back together today - don't have the right adaptor plate (another SST) that attaches between the bearing case and the SST mentioned above. I pulled the the Outside bearing retainer and the ABS Speed Sensor Rotor off with the SST above and a bearing splitter. However, it looks like SST 09521-25021 is also required as an attachment to SST 09521-25011 in order to fully press the axle shaft out of the Inner Retainer and bearing.

Can anyone confirm that the adaptor plate (SST 09521-25021) has now been superseded by SST 09521-60010? I'm needing to get my daily driver back on the road as soon as possible....just want to make sure I'm getting the right SSTs for the job.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Hampton]

SST 09521-25011