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Rear Aux Lighting Question

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by Beast II, Mar 6, 2004.

  1. Beast II

    Beast II

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    I just purchased the Slee rear bumper (so nice) and have decided to put in some rear aux lighting. I'm at about 3rd grade level in terms of wiring and have a few questions.

    I've purchased 2 Hella work lamps (one to face backwards and one behind the rear tire facing forwards to light up the area when scuba diving or camping with carrier open), Hella Rallye 4000 harnesses (cut the wires to make them work) and 2 toyota switches - which will go on the center console. I currently have 1/0 Guage wiring going all the way through the frame and into the rear area and it is powering an inverter. I'd like to also connect the lights to this rear power source so that I don't need to run the harnesses all the way to the aux battery in the front. I've looked at the wranglernw website and see all kinds of substations, circuit breakers and fuse boxes.

    What should I connect the 1/0 guage pos and neg wires to so that I may connect the lights, inverter and whatever else I need ? Another fuse box in the rear ? Or a substation and fusebox or circuit breaker ? The Hella lights are 55w - one with a single bulb and one with two.

    I'd also like one of the rear lights to go on automatically when I put the vehicle into reverse, so I'm assuming I'll need a separate relay attached to the pos lead on the backup lights ?

    Thanks in advance.

    Matt
     
  2. Photoman

    Photoman SILVER Star

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    First, I would put a Maxi fuse or circuit breaker close to the aux. battery and run your 1/0 wire through this. It would be sized to a little over the max you would be drawing. Just say 100 amps. This way the 1/0 wire is protected too in case it would rub through the frame somewhere etc. Since you didn't say what size inverter you are running I will assume a rather large one like 1200 watts or so. In this case I would run the 1/0 to either a bulkhead type junction block like Wrangler 30-100ar and 30-100ab or to a regular junction block like 30-101cr and 30-101cb depending on how you ran the wires. They make covers for these (exp. 32-303b etc.) to keep them from being inadvertently shorted out. That way you could run pretty heavy wires to the inverter with a ring terminal from these studs. Then just run a couple of other fairly heavy wires to power and ground a fuse box. All your other circuits/relays etc. then could be run from this fuse box and be protected individually.
    This is just one of many ways you could do it without having all the details.

    Bill
     
  3. Junk

    Junk

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    What about just sticking a power distribution block in one of the rear quarter panels. make one bank switched and the other constant hot. Then any time you need to add anything, it's basically just plug and play? just a thought :D
     
  4. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    I used the Junk method. Large bore wire fused at battery and run into jack stowage. One relay powers my Hella FF work lamp, one powers the rear fog lamp. Switch wires run to dash switches.

    DougM
     
  5. Beast II

    Beast II

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    Thank you for all of the info. I ended up getting a 200 amp circuit breaker to go between the 1/0 Aux Cables to the back: Circuit Breaker - http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/ROCCPCB200 - Which will connect conveniently into this Fuse Distribution block in the rear quarter panel: Fuse Distribution Block - http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STRCBR44M - and then I ordered an additional distribution block in the event that I need more than 4 connections: Add on distribution block - http://www.sounddomain.com/sku/STRDB448

    I would have preferred to order my stuff through wranglernw, but I needed to get it done and their descriptions (on the website) for their products are very limited.
     
  6. Photoman

    Photoman SILVER Star

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    Beast,

    Sounds good. If I read the info from your link correctly the fuse distribution panel you chose is for Maxi fuses. I think the choices for Maxi fuses goes from 20 amp up. That would work great for the inverter. For just a couple of lights etc. this is pretty heavy duty and if you run small wiring to them; your wires could cook before the fuse blows if shorted. Just a thought.

    Bill
     
  7. bkgiii

    bkgiii SILVER Star

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    Matt, In addition to Bill's comment, you may run into a problem with those dist. blocks. I think the smallest guage wire they will accept is 8, any you're likely gonna' get some connectivity issues with smaller, more-typically-used wires to your auxiliary equipment (inverter excepted).
    .Kit
     
  8. Beast II

    Beast II

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    I've got Hella harnesses for the lights, so I'm assuming they should be ok ??
     
  9. Photoman

    Photoman SILVER Star

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    Beast,

    The Hella wiring is probably something like 14 or 16 ga. wire. Also, lets say you are going to connect up two lights that total 100 watts. They should draw approx. 8 amps IIRC. So first as bkgii said the smallest the dist. panel and dist. block outputs are for 8 ga. (much bigger than 14 ga.) wire. Then IIRC the smallest Maxi fuse is 20 amps, so you will be protecting an 8 amp circuit with a 20 amp fuse. It all can be worked out; but by going so heavy duty you may need some additional pieces and/or have to make some adaptions.

    Bill
     
  10. Beast II

    Beast II

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  11. Photoman

    Photoman SILVER Star

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    Matt,
    Yes, you can do that. Since the Hella wires are smaller you can put the fuse in that wire, it does not have to be an 8 ga. fuse holder. Just about auto parts store sells those inline blade type fuseholders with covers so that have something like 12 ga. wire in and out. Also, please don't use my sizing for the fuse. I was just trying to give you an example since I don't know what the rating is of the lights you are using. Not only that there needs to be a little leeway on the fuse. Again just an example, say for an 8 amp circuit, maybe a 12 or 15 amp fuse might be good. Next, you need to get that smaller gauge wire into the output of the dist. panel or block. A down and dirty way would be to strip say 6 inches of the smaller wire and keep folding the copper over on itself until you build it up to a little bigger than 8 ga. (it will crush down extra if you do it this way) You could also fold it a few times and crimp on a soder type connector, soder it, then tighten down on this in the output hole. Just a couple of ideas.

    Bill
     
  12. Beast II

    Beast II

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    Thank you for all of the help; I appreciate it it big time - I would have melted my wiring . I'll post when finished with some photos :D