Rear ARB locker C-clip help needed (1 Viewer)

[CruiserMoose]

I've got to be missing something here. This is a 5.29 ARB locker in my rear diff. I was told (I think) that I would be able to put the c-clips in without any loosening of bolts etc...

I tried to put the c-clips in tonight and even though the big center disc does move back and forth some, it does not move over enough for me to get the shafts in far enough to put the c-clip in. There is just no way.

Is there some trick to it? Do I need to remove something first?

Thanks for your help.

 

[Rock_Hugger]

That center block must come out to put the c clips in. The reason it's there is to keep the axles from moving in far enough to let the clips fall off the axles.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

There is usually a chamfered edge on the center block to make it go in/come out more easily.

5.29s for the Cruiser 9.5" are relatively new in the grand scheme of things, but I know with the 4.56 and 4.88s, there was a need to shave just a touch off the ring gear to get the pin out and then the center block. In some cases, a little grinding may be required to get the center block out as well.

Caveat: I have not installed 5.29s in a c-clip LC diff yet, so take the above tid bit of info on advisement.


~John

 

[KLF]

Yes, that thrust block has to be removed, so you can shove the axles in a little more and slide the C-clip in. Then you put the block back in, and slide in the big crosspin.

I've installed 4.88's in Cruiser diffs w/ARBs and yes I had to grind on the ring for both the pin and the thrust block. 5.29's will probably be worse.

Tooth grind for the crosspin:

Grind for the thrust block:

 

[Stumpalama]

x's2 on John's comment. 4.88's required grinding of the gear teeth or block for fitment. Another trick i've been told is to silicone a thin piece of a zip-tie to the c-clip to maneuver it into place. the plastic of the tie and the silicone will be harmlessly ground up later.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

As noted 4.56, 4.88 and 5.29 all require grinding, with 4.56 being the least amount needed and 5.29's requiring the most. Once you have clearances the ring gear to all you to remove the cross-shaft, you can remove the thrust block assembly and install c-clips. Be careful how you pull out the cross-shaft as to not let it bind on the housing. Follow the procedures in the ARB manual for proper c-clip size selection and measurement.

 

[Will Van]

Yes, that thrust block has to be removed, so you can shove the axles in a little more and slide the C-clip in. Then you put the block back in, and slide in the big crosspin.

I've installed 4.88's in Cruiser diffs w/ARBs and yes I had to grind on the ring for both the pin and the thrust block. 5.29's will probably be worse.

Tooth grind for the crosspin:

Grind for the thrust block:

Unfortunately these pics are broken. Where exactly do you have to grind?

As noted 4.56, 4.88 and 5.29 all require grinding, with 4.56 being the least amount needed and 5.29's requiring the most. Once you have clearances the ring gear to all you to remove the cross-shaft, you can remove the thrust block assembly and install c-clips. Be careful how you pull out the cross-shaft as to not let it bind on the housing. Follow the procedures in the ARB manual for proper c-clip size selection and measurement.

I purchased my ARB rear locker as a complete diff with the gears already installed. Do I still have to grind the ring and pin to clear the cross-shaft?

 

[KLF]

Unfortunately these pics are broken. Where exactly do you have to grind?

Sorry about that, the server was retired. I fixed the photos.

 

[65swb45]

Unfortunately these pics are broken. Where exactly do you have to grind?



I purchased my ARB rear locker as a complete diff with the gears already installed. Do I still have to grind the ring and pin to clear the cross-shaft?

Well, theoretically, they could have bolted the ring gear on AFTER (yes, I read many years ago where somebody did exactly that to avoid grinding) But it’s more likely that they ground a tooth on the ring gear, just outside the opening in the carrier where the cross pin needs to come out.

If you see the cross pin, you can readily see if it can pass out over the closest tooth in the ring gear or not.