rear AC (1 Viewer)

[arich]

Rear AC is blowing warm. This is a picture taken from behind the driver mudflap. Can someone confirm with liquid is not normal in this area. It's oily.
I'm also getting little to no condensation drip in the rear.
Front is ice cold.

 

[Markuson]

I'd guess that's condensation. Look at it again after your truck has sat for a while.

If you've got your AC set to 4-zone, it will use the settings from the back seat control unless you override it up front...

Press "Climate" and if 4-Zone is selected, press that to stop 4-zone. Then set to LO and see if it starts cooling.

 

[arich]

I tried all that. I could not get the rear AC to cool.
The liquid is oily. Thanks mark

 

[Tapage]

The liquid is oily. Thanks mark

oily = leak ..

 

[arich]

Yep, that's what I was afraid of.

 

[Markuson]

I tried all that. I could not get the rear AC to cool.
The liquid is oily. Thanks mark

Ah. Dang. Oily = bad news.

 

[JOFS]

EDIT
Sorry I thought I was in the 100 series forum.

I haven't had issues with my 200 series rear air.

Disregard my prior message.

 

[asmo666]

That`s a typical AC leak. Get an UV lamp - if it fluorescens - 101% AC leak

 

[arich]

Ok, is it an easy fix?? O-Ring at that joint??

That`s a typical AC leak. Get an UV lamp - if it fluorescens - 101% AC leak

 

[Willy beamin]

I had to charge mine in 16' before Moab.
Made a Big Difference. I dont have any visible residuals anywhere though. I just figure is par for having a 9 yr old truck.

 

[TonyP]

Ok, is it an easy fix?? O-Ring at that joint??

From re-building my BMW's A/C system, here's what I think:
If its oil, it's probably leaking. If you pop that fitting off there will be an o-ring under the fitting. I doubt the A/C line itself is leaking. The only way to know for sure what is leaking, is cleaning the area, putting UV dye in the system, running the A/C and shining a UV light on the area. I don't know how the rear A/C is setup on 200s so I don't know if there' are hi/low side fittings for the rear system like the front. This is where the dye will be injected. You can buy a kit at any auto parts store. If it's leaking you'll have to drain the entire system before popping that fitting off. This (technically) needs to be done by an A/C professional with a refrigerant recovery machine. Venting the refrigerant into the atmosphere is illegal. That's not to say it hasn't been done before. Let's just say it's a good thing R12 and R134 isn't toxic otherwise I'd be long dead by now.

 

[cc1999]

Did you get your rear AC repaired. My 2011 started doing this exact same thing. Monday was the first time I had taken it on a little road trip in a number of months and realized my front AC was cooling fine but the rear was blowing hot. Pulled over after messing with all the setting in the front. I then tried messing with the all the settings in the rear. Nothing seemed to make any difference. I noticed an appropriate amount of condensation under the front of the truck and nothing under the rear.

Are these two systems totally independent of each other ? I thought they were likely ran off one compressor and two coils, meaning if the system is low on charge why would the front be cooling and the rear not cooling? Even my cool box seems to be working well.

 

[cc1999]

bump

 

[cc1999]

Has anyone paid to have that seal fixed and system charged ?

I am curios what dealers are charging for a repair like that.

I got quote from my Lexus dealer that typically services my LCs.

They said 183.00 to put dye in it and charge it back up to pressure test it for leaks.

They would not quote anything beyond that, since they said there could be hundreds of dollars differences depending on where the leak is.

 

[cc1999]

Update:

Mine was leaking in the same spot as the OP had shown pics of.
I found oily residue in that same area when I crawled under mine.

Yesterday I dropped her off at the Lexus dealer that does all my LC service work.

Total out the door for the repairs is going to run about $475.00 inc tax.
They found 2 seals that were bad.

 

[hedd]

This thread helped me a lot. I had the same issue - leaking at the rear just like the picture above. The dealer wanted to change out a wiring harness for $1400 and if that didn't work the rear evaporator for like $1500. After spending $200 on this diagnosis, I talked to the service manager and asked him to fix the leak and have his best mechanic look at it. They fixed the leak with a new hose and o-ring - $900 fix.

All is working correctly now and has been for about a week. Seems it fixed the problem.

Just to note, my front A/C and cool box worked great the whole time.

 

[arich]

Guys, I started the thread. At the recommendation of my local independent mechanic he recharged the system. Been perfect for over a year. Cost $40.

 

[BadReligion]

Did he replace the o-ring too because clearly there was a refrigerant leak in the photo?

 

[arich]

No, he just recharged since I was just in for an inspection. He said if it didn't last he'd change the O Ring.

 

[BadReligion]

I'd recommend cleaning that area with some simple green to get rid of the oil residue so its easy to see if it is still leaking. Even with a slow leak, you ultimately lose the oil that is supposed to lubricate your compressor, and if that goes, it can 'grenade' and disperse metal flakes throughout your AC system. I spent 20+ hours completely replacing major components and flushing all lines on my 100 last summer after the compressor went. I don't want anyone to have to go through the same process! That o-ring at the rear evaporator is easy to get to. If it needs to be replaced, make sure your AC guy uses Nylog Blue on the new one.