Realtime: using window switch kills truck

PabloVTA

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Low Idle Probs, was window switch kills idle

Hey guys, my fiance' is stuck in my truck dead in the middle of the road.
She started it up, drove it less than a quartetr mile and was using the window switch to lower the window and the truck just died.
Nothing coming from it now, not even warning lights will work....

Any Ideas?

she's made sure it's in park, and tried starting it a few times, got nuthin.

:crybaby:
 
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PabloVTA

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Well she got it started, but the idle drops to 200 RPM and stalls.
guess I'll be leaving work early.
Thanks for the help, I'll check in tonight when I'm finally home with it.
 
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Wild guess here 'cause you don't have much to go on....

Possible short in the switch caused one or more of the fusible links to blow. This would explain the first post. Now that it starts it could be in "limp home mode" if the ECU got fried.

Like I said, this is just a WAG based on the limited information.

-B-
 
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Unless you have electrical issues the window - was just a funny coinsidence.

Look under the hood and make sure all the vaccum lines are connected. PVC, ect. Also inspect the air intake hose.
 

PabloVTA

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sorry about the lack of info....was hurryin and not thinking straight.
So she managed to limp it up the road a few miles to a station, after stalling 4 times and getting it to start somehow. The first time she needed a jump and got one. The next 3 it started. But the idle was so low it would just thump and putter.
She parked it running at the station and just let it idle for 30 minutes and she said she could hear it getting stronger(the idle). I got in it, drove normal the 15 miles home. No worries. Let it sit for 10 minutes, restarted it, just went and had dinner, 2 hours go by, she starts it up, all good, go to Trader Joes, picked up another bottle of Cazadores, she fired right up, now were home and I'm about to have a shot and toast you all for the great show of support!

Weird how it was dead and the hazard flashers weren't working, clock lost time, but radio kept all stations.....

i'm thinking voltage regulator, or some leftover sand from SurfnTurf going thru a vaccuum hose. Not the first time she's done this....only happens once a year maybe. 2 months ago she wouldn't start in the driveway, nuthin, no click so I charged it up for about 4 minutes and she turned right over an started....now this? I do notice that after I put it in D (blown out light also) the lights dim about 10 seconds later for just a wink, and then come up to full bright. I'm using 9006 bulbs and some half assed wiring to some new plugs since the stock ones melted. But it did the same thing before I changed them out. Guess I'll be calling Slee for his harness.


Replaced the air hose last year. Optima is only a year old at most, and had new terminals put on it, not showing any sign of rust, corrosion or looseness.

Tomorrow, I'll clean 'em anyway and put in the new Bosch Platinum's I bought a while back.

Thanks again!
 
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This is a classic case of the battery terminals losing good contact and dropping the ECU. I have had the same thing happen on my 94-FZJ80 and it is APITA. Also embarrassing! Like "Waggoner5" mentioned; if u break the alternator/battery connection, u loose continuity thru the MAIN fuse link to the ECU and the engine tries to run under emergengy mode, i.e. less than 650 rpm.

...
 

landtank

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When I was a kid my buddy had similar issues with an old chevy. Turned out to be a bad battery. There was an internal break, probably at the plates, that would just drop out the battery. If this started with that new optima, you might consider it.
 

richj11

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PabloVTA said:
sorry about the lack of info....was hurryin and not thinking straight.
So she managed to limp it up the road a few miles to a station, after stalling 4 times and getting it to start somehow. The first time she needed a jump and got one. The next 3 it started. But the idle was so low it would just thump and putter.
The low idle thing sounded like mine when the starter didn't disengage...

Rich J
 

Landpimp

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battery cables or fusible link......which is my suspicion, the no hazards working makes me think this. Or the alt is on the way out, mine did some wierd stuff when the alt was dying.
 

PabloVTA

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update

WARNING LONG POST**
been to 3 dealers for parts, changed the PCV valve and grommet, tube for it as well.
Was really crispy, and no rattle at all and just caked, the tube had chunks of carbon fall out of it. Replaced the set of Bosch Platinum 2's. They were all even wear. all the boots looked shiny and clean still. Topped off the Mobil 1 synthetic and charged the battery for about an hour. Clapped out the air filter too after inspecting the 2 year old intake hose for any cracks. It's still tight. The only thing I couldn't replace that I wanted to was the second hose on the valve cover, it has a crack that's about an inch long and very thin, right at the case near the cover...so I put some stretch seal tape and a fat hose clamp over it, and also hose clamps on the other side.

Started her up, everything is fine, drive it around the 'hood about a mile and a half, park it in the driveway...idle drops to barely 400 RPM.

nothing on but lights. OD switch off. ECT switch off.

WTF?? I pull out the 1 million candlepower flash light and trace each vacuum line. Nuthin.
I drive it to work yesterday, 30 miles one way, 15 miles of stop and go....no stalls, she was awesome. Get in it for lunch break, rough idle and close call stall twice. Call local dealer, plan on getting a free check after work.

So I go, wait 2 hours while they've got it and then get the news. Idle Air Control Valve.

443 bucks! with 225 labor!
I said no thanks, drove home.....which by the way was smooth, no troubles.
Today, drove it to work, had AC on during lunch( yeah, that's right! ) She ran awesome.

Did she just get scared? or does she not like the lady driving her? Dealer check found no codes, no leaks, no errors.
 
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I believe there's a procedure for checking the IAC Valve in the FSM, so you could double check their diagnosis. Can't say I recall much conversation on here about folks having to replace this, so I'm a little sceptical.

Did they test the battery? Free and easy.
 

PabloVTA

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just a follow up...
never got the IACV fixed, and the rig still runs good. Been getting about 12.5 to 13MPG on 92 octane and no loss of power issues.

just has a ruff idle every now and then. After I winterized the truck (new wiper blades and plugs, filled up the fluid reservoir for the washers, you know how vicious the winters are here in Ventura) the rig has been the same it always has.

Guess it didn't like the:princess: driving it to work.

Happy New Year all! Thank you again for the great info and support.
 
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Do you think that it was just a loose battery connection or something similar that reset the ECU? The first few starts after undoing the ECU have pretty crappy idle while the ECU is 'learning'. Somebody correct me if I have this wrong.

Ross
 

PabloVTA

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No, I dont think the ECU ever restarted. I've pulled my EFI fuse a hundred times and it's always the same. I think it has more to do with the throttle cable adjustment. Weird, when it's cold, and I'm standing on the brakes on a down hill stop, it'll idle rough. I put it in nuetral, give the throttle a blip, and it corrects itself. Guess the IACV will need to be rebuilt or open wallet.

maybe I'll get lucky on the CDAN Christmas gift???? hint hint....who won that anyway?
 

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