Realtime help - stuck 8mm bolts on brake caliper (1 Viewer)

[Gnarwgn]

Hey team -

I'm in the middle of removing my rear right caliper/disc break so I can get at the bellcrank assembly, which is frozen and i'm replacing the various bits in there to get it working again. That was the PLAN anyways, until I got stuck removing these 8mm bolts holding the small caliper plate on, so that I can access the 4 larger bolts to remove the caliper. I think I partially stripped these with my impact drill, which was a bonehead move. Any suggestions? Thanks in advance from a cold garage in Issaquah....

 

[cpcc]

its a shield, you can cut it off.
or try some lock pliers to see if you can grasp and turn the bolts

 

[ramangain]

Just bend it out of the way and move forward. Consider it a small annoyance to deal with towards the end of the job rather than a showstopper.

 

[3_puppies]

6 point socket? grind it down so you get full engagement with the head of the bolt.

 

[LongHaulCruiser]

Try to fine a socket in your kit that you can hammer onto the damaged head and carefully remove the bolt by hand. Or: Vice grips might work. A small pipe wrench. Cut a slot in the bolt head and use a large screw-driver to take out the bolt. Drill out the head and use an easy-out. Just some things I would try in that position. Hope you find a way to get it done.

 

[Gnarwgn]

Guys -

thanks for the great tips. Land cruiser won last night,was able to remove the caliper, but the final two 17mm bolts that hold whatever the caliper mounts to are not budging. Impact made no difference. So...any advice on those? Such a classic project, 4 bolts holding me back from fixing my ebrake and completing this 1/2 banana job!

 

[mcgilvrey007]

I've had to develop several levels of escalation dealing with stuck fasteners over the years. Don't forget a liberal spray with penetrating oil
Level 1- Whatever ratchet/socket combo thats easiest/within reach
Level 2- 1/2" ratchet and the appropriate 6 point impact socket (the harbor freight ones are actually pretty good)
Level 3- 1/2" breaker bar and heat applied with a propane torch
Level 4- From this point on the fastener will be destroyed, Air chisel the side to knock it loose
Level 5- OxyAcetylene torch, a bolt cant be stuck if its liquid

 

[Octous]

suggestion: Heat and cool, heat and cool. Thermal cycles help break rust.

 

[Malleus]

Those two bolts have an installed torque of 76-ftlbs, if installed correctly. I've never removed a set that was installed correctly, even by a dealership. For some reason, the prevailing theory seems to be that you can't tighten wheel/brake related bolts too tight.

I tried using a targeted flame on one set, and even with a heat proof blanket, I melted the brake lines. I would not suggest doing this. The best solution, although not a fast one, is to spray the bolt head/flange connection (this will get under the head, I promise) with either AeroKroil or just ATF (use the cheap stuff). I use an acid brush and paint it on. Keep applying it, about once an hour, until the joint obviously won't take any more. Get a breaker bar (or your ratchet, if you must) and a 2-ft length of pipe and pull. It will come off. I've never been able to get mine high enough off the ground to use a longer piece of pipe on the breaker bar handle; YMMV.

HTH

 

[AlpineAccess]

Do you have an impact gun?

Hit the bolt - impacting it tighter first, then in reverse Even if it doesn't move at all, keep repeating this for a few impacts in both directions. Then flip it over to reverse and back it out.

If no movement, a good penetrating oil and let sit for 24 hours, applying a few times.

 

[pili]

Be super careful with an impact on these...I broke the heads of 2 of them when tightening into reman calipers.. This was just using hand tools.

 

[blinder52]

Heat. Penetrating oil, six point socket (tapped on).... Don’t get in a hurry.

 

[ramangain]

Guys -

thanks for the great tips. Land cruiser won last night,was able to remove the caliper, but the final two 17mm bolts that hold whatever the caliper mounts to are not budging. Impact made no difference. So...any advice on those? Such a classic project, 4 bolts holding me back from fixing my ebrake and completing this 1/2 banana job!

For those bolts, a 1/2" socket on a 1/2" ratchet being convinced to loosen by hitting the ratchet with a 4 lb sledge did the trick for me. I found getting my HD impact gun too awkward to wield properly.

 

[CanadianRockyCruiser]

 

[2001LC]

1) No need to remove 8mm bolts, to pull off rear calipers.
2) 17mm caliper mounting bolts, break free, with 17mm six point socket and 3/4" breaker bar.
3) Loosen the E-brake adjusters, before pulling brake disc/drum off. Failure to do so, and the e-brake shoes may hang-up on drum. This may damage the shoes retainers.

E-brake adjuster.

Here one "Brake plus" failed to loosen/release shoe from drum. The tech placed washers on retainer, trying to hold in. Worked to get out of the shop, until E-brake needed!

 

[Gnarwgn]

Thanks all for the great input...I killed the beast yesterday! The 6 point socket wrench was the key. I just needed a bigger one and it broke loose.

NOW have a fully functional ebrake - added benefit was that the frozen bellcrank lever arm/pivot bracket (pictured) was also the source of the crazy rear passenger side screech I've experienced for 3 years every time I hit a bump. So thats a relief.

Last question - driving around today a bit and I'm getting rotor noise, I'm wondering if a clip is sticking out on the brake shoe and contacting the rotor, going to get back in there and take a look, but wanted to ask if anyone had other thoughts/ideas to check out.

 

[blinder52]

I distorted the dust shield when I was loosing up a corroded e-brake lever and it was touching the back of the disc. Had to pull the disc to see it.

 

[Gnarwgn]

I distorted the dust shield when I was loosing up a corroded e-brake lever and it was touching the back of the disc. Had to pull the disc to see it.

is the dust shield the dinner plate sized metal thing that the bellcrank arm runs through? I may have done the same thing come to think of it trying to pry the old one loose...

 

[blinder52]

Yes, it is very close to the disc. You will be able to tell right away by marks on the dust shield or the rotor. I made the mistake of prying against it to loosen up the lever.

 

[blinder52]

is the dust shield the dinner plate sized metal thing that the bellcrank arm runs through? I may have done the same thing come to think of it trying to pry the old one loose...

Yes, it is very close to the disc. You will be able to tell right away by marks on the dust shield or the rotor. I made the mistake of prying against it to loosen up the lever.