REALLY REAL TIME: Removing Aisin Hubs (1 Viewer)

[lunyou]

Hey guys i am down at my dad's trying to remove the locking hubs off my 60. I can get the outside part with the "selector" on it off. Then I take the little nuts off from around the hub and the loose washers.

Now what. I try pecking on the cone washers that are surrounding the studs like prescribed but no luck.

I don't have access to a heat source(torch).

If worse comes to worse can I cut the studs off? Will that help.

thanks

lunyou

 

[coolin82]

Do not cut the studs!! That will only cause you more problems. I have found that a 3/8" ratchet extention, 6-8" long, and a medium sized hammer is all you need. Simply place the tip of the extension on the stud containing the cone washer and wack it with the hammer 2-3 times for each washer/stud. I have never seen this method not work.

Good luck

 

[theRash]

From my own experience and others I've seen on this forum. I took a narrow metal bar, placed it on the cone washer only and 1 to 5 hits with a hammer later... they came loose. Not easy but I haven't seen an easier and cheaper way yet. I did it to a 4Runner and even the Chilton's manual recomends that method.

 

[freds40]

I will usually take a dead blow (plastic) hammer and smack the hub a bit. Then stick a small flat screw drive in the slot on the cone washers and twist it around. Seems to work pretty well.

 

[Spike Strip]

DON'T CUT ---

Use a BRASS Drift (soft), and place it on the top of the stud, and WHACK it with a 2-3 lb hammer -- Cone washers will release and pop up enough to remove with needle nose or your fingers.

Spraying with PB Blaster, WD40 etc, and letting 'em sit a bit helps.

 

[brokenparts]

DON'T CUT ---

Use a BRASS Drift (soft), and place it on the top of the stud, and WHACK it -- Cone washers will release and pop up enough to remove with needle nose or your fingers.

Spraying with PB Blaster, WD40 etc, and letting 'em sit a bit helps.

x2!!!

 

[Crash_AB]

Mine were super tight - there's a small gap in the cone itself, I tapped as close as possible to that gap with the edge of a cold chisel - couldn't get a brass drift on it enough. You don't want to hit ON the gap, but beside it so the cone flexes into it... If you have a deadblow that wont mar up the hub too bad, a few sharp raps on the outermost edge might prove useful [think leverage on the cones] but be careful with that.

WD40 and patience are your best bet. I struggled with mine for almost 2 hours.

Good luck.

 

[cruiser88]

Trail-Gear Inc > Brake Lines

 

[Mace]

Did you take the snap ring off?

 

[Downey]

The way I've always done it is to put a socket against the hub flange (outside the cone washers) and rap with a hammer. This way you don't run the risk of damaging the studs.

 

[alex e]

I use a Medium BFH and a heavy brass drift. Easy.

 

[Mace]

Did it work?

 

[agomez]

x2!!!

x3.....this is a good method.....

 

[zentoast]

Thanks, All

I just wanted to say, "Thank You" to all of you who help out with making this information so accessible. I couldn't figure out how to get those cone washers off, and the 3/8" extension and hammer trick (first post on this topic) worked like a charm.

I'm trying to get ahold of a 54mm socket to break the lock nut fo the wheel bearings loose, but not having much luck.

Anyway, thanks guys!

-zentoast

 

[Drunken Ira Hayes]

Though not the recommended method, using a hammer and screwdriver to remove and install the axle nuts works in a pinch. I have used the aforementioned technique several times with no issues.

 

[MrMoMo]

54mm = 2-1/8" if that helps.

 

[Dynosoar]

There is a locking tab with ears that you have to bend back before attempting to loosen the nut.

Dynosoar

 

[Matt60]

not to be rude but this sorta makes my head hurt, just a little....

 

[PabloCruise]

Mine were super tight - there's a small gap in the cone itself, I tapped as close as possible to that gap with the edge of a cold chisel - couldn't get a brass drift on it enough. You don't want to hit ON the gap, but beside it so the cone flexes into it... If you have a deadblow that wont mar up the hub too bad, a few sharp raps on the outermost edge might prove useful [think leverage on the cones] but be careful with that.

WD40 and patience are your best bet. I struggled with mine for almost 2 hours.

Good luck.

The best method I have found is to place a machinist scribe in the gap in the cone washer and a few gentle taps with a hammer inserts the scribe into the cone.

This expands the cone and walks it right out of the hub body. NOTE: this also works when you are tearing down the knuckles!

This is the simplest method, does not require BFH and does not mar hub body or studs...

Did you take the snap ring off?

Don't foget this!

not to be rude but this sorta makes my head hurt, just a little....

No offense taken!

Can be hard to understand w/o a visual...

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

update please lunyou. as people said there are some tricks. and like mace asked-did you take the snap ring off?
cheers,
j