Have you corrected any timing problems before moving on to injectors? Do you have a fsm to follow ?
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Have you corrected any timing problems before moving on to injectors? Do you have a fsm to follow ?
When you re-set the dizzy, you did verify you were TDC of the compression stroke yes? If so the pull the valve cover and verify both lobe sets over #1 are pointed up/away from
The valves and that the # I piston is at the top of its stroke. Reinstall the dizzy with the metal blade portion of the rotor pointed at 11 o clock as you're looking at it.
on a 4 stroke engine, each piston is at top dead center twice during one cycle. Once on compression, and once at top of blowing exhaust out. Translate that back to the distributor, it revolves once for every two strokes of the piston. So you could be 180 degrees off.
turn the engine, so it is at tic again. I do this by taking #1 plug out and cover the plug hole with your hand. When the piston comes up on compression stroke you will feel the air push out that hole, stronger than the other stroke when the exhaust valve is open. Then drop a long rod into the hole and when it reaches the peak, it is at tdc.
This X2One other note... if you followed the FSM to install your cams, the engine should have been at #1 TDC already. If you installed the distributor without turning the engine over, it should have been correct. If you turned it before installing dist, you'd need to go two full revolutions to get back to #1 TDC, as @2fpower outlined.
Another thing.. if you've been trying to start it unsuccessfully this many times it may well be very flooded. Once you confirm that the distributor is timed correctly consider cutting power to the fuel pump (easiest method is unhooking the small gray 6-pin connector behind the rocker panel under the driver's side rear door) and turning it over with the throttle wide open for a while to air things out. Pulling the plugs and turning over is another option but more work.
Nope, there are 2 times in each ignition cycle that that hash mark hits zero. You need to verify that your #1 piston is at top dead center and that the valve should are closed for the #1 cylinder. That's why I suggested removing the valve cover and visually checking the valves. It's easier for most people to see it that way. Also, don't always rely on those hash marks, a bad crank pulley or stretched timing chain can cause it to be off. Always verify.I am a little confused by what you mean by "of the compression stroke." If I set the hash mark on the bottom pulley to 0* is that all it takes? Or could that mean it is TDC, but not of the compression stroke? (I did check the hash mark was at 0* when I reinstalled the distributor.