Real time question - in over my head (2 Viewers)

[cmfhsu]

• Engine oil was brown and milky but it didn't appear to have broken down maybe because it's mobil 1.
  
  Yeah, that's a result of the water in your crankcase. I'd do a thorough flush with some cheap oil and a good quality filter, run it for a bit, and then drain that out and put your oil of choice back in.
  
• Transfer case was milky as well.
  
  Same issue, same fix. Shouldn't be a problem unless you've driven many miles with the water in it, which it doesn't sound like. Look up differential breather tubes and think about extending them, in order to prevent (or at least decrease the probability of) that happening in the future.
  
• haven't gotten to the Diffs yet but I'm assuming the will be as well.
  
  Full flush, then a top up.
• Battery was tested and they say its good, just needs a charge which is understandable because of all the attempts to start. this means the starting issue is something else.
  
  I'm going to guess that the click you're hearing is the relay clicking. Can you hear the plunger going down when you try to start it? Does it sort of... make a whizzing sound when you try to crank it? See if you haven't blown any fuses. I haven't had any issues with my starter motor, so I can't tell you anything from personal experience, but since checking fuses is the easiest, it's where I'd start.
  
• oil filter was put on so tight, that it wouldn't come off. tried everything even removing the skid plate for more levergage and using an air filter wrench. Was hungry and tired, sore back, etc., and got impatient. Now it's damaged and leaking. From the looks of the oil, it has to come off and be replaced.
  
  Stick a screwdriver in it and turn. It took me hours to get the filter off my dad's hundy. I made sure to get the new gasket nice and oiled up when I put it in, lol.

 

[City Cruzer]

• Engine oil was brown and milky but it didn't appear to have broken down maybe because it's mobil 1.
  
  Yeah, that's a result of the water in your crankcase. I'd do a thorough flush with some cheap oil and a good quality filter, run it for a bit, and then drain that out and put your oil of choice back in.
  
• Transfer case was milky as well.
  
  Same issue, same fix. Shouldn't be a problem unless you've driven many miles with the water in it, which it doesn't sound like. Look up differential breather tubes and think about extending them, in order to prevent (or at least decrease the probability of) that happening in the future.
  
• haven't gotten to the Diffs yet but I'm assuming the will be as well.
  
  Full flush, then a top up.
• Battery was tested and they say its good, just needs a charge which is understandable because of all the attempts to start. this means the starting issue is something else.
  
  I'm going to guess that the click you're hearing is the relay clicking. Can you hear the plunger going down when you try to start it? Does it sort of... make a whizzing sound when you try to crank it? See if you haven't blown any fuses. I haven't had any issues with my starter motor, so I can't tell you anything from personal experience, but since checking fuses is the easiest, it's where I'd start.
  
• oil filter was put on so tight, that it wouldn't come off. tried everything even removing the skid plate for more levergage and using an air filter wrench. Was hungry and tired, sore back, etc., and got impatient. Now it's damaged and leaking. From the looks of the oil, it has to come off and be replaced.
  
  Stick a screwdriver in it and turn. It took me hours to get the filter off my dad's hundy. I made sure to get the new gasket nice and oiled up when I put it in, lol.

Yes i was thinking the same thing. I'm going to put some regular 10W -30W in it and run it for a bit without driving then put the Mobil 1 in. Same thing with the transfer case. The rear diff oils looked untarnished, clears and oily. Since it was draining and i'm about due for the year fluid changes, i went ahead and changed it.

man looks like another week with the Hundy. last week a rental car, this week metrolink intot he office1 ugh!!

Thanks for the tip about using a screwdriver on the filter. i was thinking to go buy a large pipe wrench...

 

[City Cruzer]

Yes, most policies. Call your agent and ask, you may find your anxiety level dropping significantly. Be sure and tell the truth. You didn't intentionally flood the car. Tell it the same way you told us. Also be prepared for them to total it, or at least try to. Just remember that their word is not the last. Everything with auto insurance is negotiable, so if they try to total it, decide what you want. If you want it fixed, then negotiate for that. If they total it and you don't want it totaled, negotiate accordingly. If they total it, then negotiate for the best payoff. Also, if they total it and pay you off, then decide if you are going to want to keep it with a salvage title, and negotiate the purchase price of the vehicle into the deal. If you don't want the salvage deal on it, someone here on this forum will, so post up if this happens.

Let us know how it goes.

Thanks jttexam. My anxiety level dropped a bit just reading the number of options you presented. I'm having a bit of trouble following everything that you wrote. However, if they do total it, I would want as much as possible for it and to keep it. Is that possible? I don't know a thing about totaling a vehicle or salvage. I always thought if a vechicle was totaled, it went to the junkyard as junk.

Are you saying there is a way to keep the car and be paid off for it? Would it be possible to insure afterwards? If it is covered by my Comprehensive coverage with Ameriprise, is it a possibility to just have it fixed?

I guess I need to study more or research more about what happens when a vehicle is totaled or salvaged.

 

[jttexam]

Are you saying there is a way to keep the car and be paid off for it? Would it be possible to insure afterwards? If it is covered by my Comprehensive coverage with Ameriprise, is it a possibility to just have it fixed?

It is possible that it will just get fixed. The best deal here for you is if they open a claim, fix the problems and everyone goes on. The only reason I brought up the case of it getting totaled, is because it is a 12 year-old car and it is a possibility you need to be prepared for.

If it is totaled, you can purchase it back from the insurance company before they sell it to a salvage yard. It will have what is called a "salvage title". You and the insurance company will agree upon a buyout for your vehicle and when they pay you, they just bought it from you. If this happens, decide up front, before you settle with them, what you want to do, and at what price you are willing to do it. If you have not yet signed off on their offer to purchase your truck, you have better leverage for your offer to buy it back from them. Remember, that if you buy it back from them, you are buying it as-is, and any repairs will have to come out of the proceeds of the buyout, or your pocket. Go look at other 1999's for sale. Depending on how this goes, it may or may not be a good deal.

Insurance on a salvage title vehicle will be different. You will probably have to shop to find a comprehensive to cover it, and if you do, it will cover it at the same level that you purchased it back. In other words, for not much money.

If they call you and tell you they want to total it, immediately respond that you want it repaired, not totaled. They will be prepared to defend their case and will try to convince you that state laws require this, etc., etc. If they are not willing to comply, be professional, kind and walk away. They will come back to you with their offer again. If they won't comply the second time, walk away again. They will come back again. If they offer to repair it and issue a salvage title, DO NOT ACCEPT! If they won't discuss the third time, then start negotiating your price for the buyout and start deciding if you want to try and keep it or not. You don't have to do all of this while you are on the phone with them. Take all of the numbers, create a spreadsheet, do your research and get back to them when you are comfortable with your decision. Most of all, be patient. Your best results will likely not come from a quick resolution.

For that filter, cmfhsu is correct. Just stab a flat tip screwdriver (bigger is better) right through the middle of that filter. I little wrist twisting might be required to get it all they way through, but once it is, you have the leverage you need.

 

[options2]

man looks like another week with the Hundy. last week a rental car, this week metrolink intot he office1 ugh!!

Metrolink huh? Just curious, where are you located?

 

[City Cruzer]

It is possible that it will just get fixed. The best deal here for you is if they open a claim, fix the problems and everyone goes on. The only reason I brought up the case of it getting totaled, is because it is a 12 year-old car and it is a possibility you need to be prepared for.

If it is totaled, you can purchase it back from the insurance company before they sell it to a salvage yard. It will have what is called a "salvage title". You and the insurance company will agree upon a buyout for your vehicle and when they pay you, they just bought it from you. If this happens, decide up front, before you settle with them, what you want to do, and at what price you are willing to do it. If you have not yet signed off on their offer to purchase your truck, you have better leverage for your offer to buy it back from them. Remember, that if you buy it back from them, you are buying it as-is, and any repairs will have to come out of the proceeds of the buyout, or your pocket. Go look at other 1999's for sale. Depending on how this goes, it may or may not be a good deal.

Insurance on a salvage title vehicle will be different. You will probably have to shop to find a comprehensive to cover it, and if you do, it will cover it at the same level that you purchased it back. In other words, for not much money.

If they call you and tell you they want to total it, immediately respond that you want it repaired, not totaled. They will be prepared to defend their case and will try to convince you that state laws require this, etc., etc. If they are not willing to comply, be professional, kind and walk away. They will come back to you with their offer again. If they won't comply the second time, walk away again. They will come back again. If they offer to repair it and issue a salvage title, DO NOT ACCEPT! If they won't discuss the third time, then start negotiating your price for the buyout and start deciding if you want to try and keep it or not. You don't have to do all of this while you are on the phone with them. Take all of the numbers, create a spreadsheet, do your research and get back to them when you are comfortable with your decision. Most of all, be patient. Your best results will likely not come from a quick resolution.

For that filter, cmfhsu is correct. Just stab a flat tip screwdriver (bigger is better) right through the middle of that filter. I little wrist twisting might be required to get it all they way through, but once it is, you have the leverage you need.

Thanks for all the great data jttexam! That is some very good detailed advice. I'm going to get on the phone with them today when I get home from the office. I have to investigate this because it really does open up other options.

 

[City Cruzer]

Metrolink huh? Just curious, where are you located?

the hot San Fernando Valley in Southern California!

 

[nomembername]

Water and electricity don't mix (or, rather, they enjoy each other's company too much and in a destructive fashion...). If you had water intrusion into your various electronic devices and relays and whatnot, every time you energized the vehicle you fried them a little more.

When you get electronics wet, the first thing to do is REMOVE the electrical sources. Disconnect the battery, take the days to change out the fluids, strip/dry the interior (the consequences of leaving a car wet can be seen here 2002 Audi AllRoad Mold Remova/Restoration...Signature Detailed - Club RSX Message Board ) and get the rest of the work done while allowing the electrics to dry out completely before putting a battery back in and trying to start.

Chances are, because the engine and body control modules are high enough up, they didn't get soaked, but plenty of other connections, switches, relays, and wiring did. Now that you've done the damage (and repeated it) you will have to start doing what jttexam suggested at the top of this page... start going through everything, one by one starting with the grounds, in the electrical system. Also get friendly with a shop that can bench test the electronics or has the advanced scan tools to test circuits individually.

 

[Musky]

That sucks! I remember back in the day I went wheeling in Utah by the B on the mountain in Bountiful and got stuck in a big water hole\bog with my old 82 Toyota pickup. I made a huge mistake by shutting off the truck for about 30 seconds before my buddies told me to keep it running. I cranked it and it started right up. I got pulled out of the bog and everything was fine except I couldn't go over 40mph on the way home. I let it run for about the next 3-4 hours at my friends house and it somehow dried out and everything was fine. I don't know if my distributor cap was wet and it finally dried out or what but I was happy Utah has such a dry climate. Back then you didn't have to worry about computers getting wet. I don't remember water coming in the cab either.

 

[jttexam]

It has been a while, what is new?

 

[City Cruzer]

Hey jttexam thanks for following up, I've been meaning to reply but got overwhelmed with stuff that got dropped while I was trying to save the Cruiser.

Well I'm sorry to report that I'm no longer a proud Hundy owner. :-( I had to let it go. I took your advice and contacted my insurance company. They came out and looked at it and determined there was enough potential damage to total the car. They informed me of cases where airbags would randomly deploy due to damage from water, etc. That concern, combined with their fair offer of $12,000 for the car made me decide to let it go and move on.

I hope to buy another hundy sometime soon but I think my next one will be an 80 series simply because of the increased capability from more lift and the straight front axle. I was in the market for something diesel so I ended up buying what's called a 4 door bronco. it's a ford f350 crew cab with a bronco rear. Dana 60 axles, 4x4 with auto locking hubs, 7.3 liter direct injected powerstroke diesel. I intend to use it to tow as well. It is one of only 3,000 made, and only 30 had the 7.3l diesel. Picked it up of a train engineer in texas that kept it immaculate. Drove it back from Texas last week and then took it on a camping trip to Big Sur. It performs flawlessly as well. The wifey love it because it's a 1 ton and she got to pack all that her heart desired. I'm avergering about 16 mpg but the past owner says if i stay below 70 around 65, I will see 17 to 22. I'm actually happy with 16 for now and with the 35 gallon tank, safely seeing a 450 mile range without dipping into reserves. This will end up being my expedition buildup. it's a 1996 diesel so it's exempt from CA emissions and I intend to swap out the powerstroke with a 94-97 cummins 5.9 12v at some point, install an ARB in back and a tru trac up front, lift another 3 to 5 inches, reverse shackles,auxilary tanks, winch, etc.

So, while I'm really sad to see the hundy go, (and for the record the C350 is no hundy), I came away okay thanks in part to the advice you provided. I'm still going stay active on Ih8mud because its got the best advice out there and some of the most friendly, knowledgeable members.

Forgive me for the non Hundy picture post but thought anyone who hasn't seen a 4door bronco could see mine!

Also, I've got some parts from my old hundy, third row seats, molding, center console, think i still have the stock radio too. if you want any of this stuff, let me know. I'm not trying to make anything off of it, just want to see it all go to a good home.

Best!

 

[BigBlue99]

Bummer about your hundy but that is an ideal long-distance expedition platform you picked up. Nice rebound. I take it your trim is gray? Need a new interior trim piece for the upper tailgate as mine is now warped and has a broken snap.

 

[Topoguide]

Hey, nice find. No, it is not a Hundy... but those Centurions are darned fine trucks.

A couple words of caution with it though (coming from a prev owner of that era Ford truck):

1. Get rid of the auto-locking hubs - they're known to explode for no good reason. Plus they don't work like you would think, when you change direction they unlock and re-lock (in about 5ft). Get Warn manual locking hubs, in the long run you'll be happier.
   
2. Be careful with the front bumper, to achieve the 5 mph bumper Ford used an accordion section of frame... but once it's hit/pulled/bent it doesn't go back easily. I would replace that section of frame when I put a more expedition worthy bumper on
   
3. Watch the back bumper when coming off an obstacle/hill/etc. That truck has a habit of the bumper coming up and denting the fender right above it. This I know from personal experience
   
4. During the build up add a roll cage. Ford was terrible with the saftey of the tops, they will smash flat in a heart beat. And that is the metal part I am referring to.
   
5. If it has ABS be careful. ABS will radically increase your stopping distance in that truck when it comes on.
6. To get rid of the notorious serpentine belt squeak use the Goodyear Gatorback belt.
7. Use 911 brake pads. The stock pads are very soft and your truck will chew right through them, the 911 pads were designed for emergency vehs and work great.

I am sure you'll enjoy it. If it was a bronco I would say jump it, 'cause they fly like it's cool... but that thing is just a monster

 

[MidTex]

3,000 made and only 30 were diesels? I would have thought the numbers would be reversed.

 

[e9999]

Sorry to hear you had to let go of the 100.
Stick around.
(Let's save the Ford discussion for some other forum, though)

 

[City Cruzer]

Thanks for all the great data regarding my new truck. Much appreciated... and with that I will end the Ford discussion!

 

[City Cruzer]

Big Blue, yes my trim is grey but I only have the trim pieces for the floor and surrounding areas that I removed to take out the seats and carpet.

 

[jttexam]

Sorry to hear it.

Glad it worked out.

Awesome new truck, while not as comfortable, it could be the only vehicle made that can out-last a Land Cruiser.