Real Time PHH Help (1 Viewer)

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C6H12O6

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Dec 23, 2004
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Beaverton, Oregon
Ok, so I'm just about done, and I must say it really wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. It took me forever because I had to keep looking at my laptop at my cheapskate digital FSM. Gotta get a paper copy before anything major.

On to my help issue...
I'm using the silicone hose and constant tension clamps and I can't tell if I have the dang things tight enough. I looked through an old thread about overtightening these things, but nobody ever posted up a definitive answer about how tight is tight. The torque wrench idea doesn't really help, because they just seem to stay at the same torque all the time. I'm using a short 1/4 inch socket wrench with almost know leverage and I can just crank and crank.

I'll load up some pictures in a minute. Any ideas? I had to take the top of the tranny dipstick out to get to things. Must have been the Popeye forearms. Anyway, I'd love to not have to tear it all apart again after I put everything back together.

Thanks,
Steve
 
Here are pics of the new silicone hose and the constant tension clamps.

Honestly, figuring out how the heck to get in there was the hard part. Getting the SPAM key style cotter pin clamp off was a little tricky, but it was so corroded that I was able to manhandle it loose. The silicone hose is great stuff to work with. A very little drop of dish soap and it slid right on.

As usual, I went slowly my first time (not THAT first time... get your minds out of the gutter), but I'm pretty sure I could do the whole job in an hour-ish next time. I don't remember seeing very many people recommend removal of the top half of the tranny dipstick tube, but I can't imagine doing this job around the tube and rubber lines connected to it.

Here are also a couple pictures of the bulging hose and the cracks and general corroded nastiness of the old hose.
 
Did you get the hose and clamps at NAPA? Nice install by the way.
 
Yeah, Napa. I don't have a part number for the 5/8" silicone hose (they had the hose in stock), but the clamps are 705-1500. They were $3.39 each and worth every penny if they keep this little PITA hose from leaking. The hose was $10 per foot, with a one foot minimum :doh: and you only need about 50mm (~ 2 inches).

Don't let this one scare you if you haven't done it yet. It takes a couple hours if you haven't done it before, but I followed Landtank's directions (thanks again!) and found the whole process to be pretty straight forward. Not that big a deal if you are in your garage with a few cold ones waiting. I sure wouldn't want to do it in the middle of nowhere in Montana in a couple weeks. Glad I got to it before the trip.

Steve
 
That picture looks identical to the pic I took of my PHH replacement recently!

C6, I had the same issue with the clamps turning and turning... after a while I decided to stop, even though it still was tightening with what seemed like very little torque. I figured if it leaks in the winter it wouldn't be too much trouble for me to get back in there and tighten it a little more. FYI, I've driven my truck a week or two now (and about 1200 miles) with no leaks.

MLX450 - It looks to be the same parts which I purchased from NAPA. The clamps were in stock in Phoenix at the warehouse store.
 
Hondo said:
That picture looks identical to the pic I took of my PHH replacement last week!


Yeah, I had to hack into your computer for the pic. I don't have a digital camera. ;)

My local Napa had to order the clamps, but they were at the local hub, so it only took a couple hours for them to show up.
 
Thanks for the info. Yup i've ignored the PHH but i replaced all the radiator hoses. I gotta do this (deep breath.... lol i still have scars from the battle with the VSV for the EGR)- to get some peace of mind, and oh while i'm at it i gotta replace my thermostat.
 
If I didn't know better, I might believe you... ;)
 
LOL - think i'll make a trip to NAPA tomorrow. Thanks for the info!
 
Use quality lined stainless clamps and tighten it up til it feels right and then forget it.

That's what I did a couple years ago.

Mr T, the automaker that goes the extra mile on every automobile they build, used a standard 16mm heater hose and the same clamps they use everyplace else.

We are way over-thinking this repair.
 
Steve

How many miles on that hose - looks like it was in pretty bad shape.

Thanks
Tom
 
It was the original hose, so about 165K. I just bought the rig last month, so I'm glad this was at the top of my PM list before its first big road trip. I cut the hose lengthwise and when I pulled on it, it just tore away in pieces. The rubber was rotten and probably about ready to go, as evident by the cracks in the rubber. It was seeping on the truck from in between the layers of rubber, which is pretty common, I guess. From what I read here in the archives, the hose has about a 100K mile life, so I guess it was about time.

Tomorrow I'll finish flushing the cooling system and refill with Toyota red coolant, then it's on to rear brakes, belts, tranny fluid, oil change, etc.

Fingers crossed for no leaks,
Steve
 
cruiserdan said:
Use quality lined stainless clamps and tighten it up til it feels right and then forget it.

That's what I did a couple years ago.

Mr T, the automaker that goes the extra mile on every automobile they build, used a standard 16mm heater hose and the same clamps they use everyplace else.

We are way over-thinking this repair.

I'm pretty much with ya on this one C-Dan. The Toyota lasted 135K with crappy clamps and standard hose. I think I could probably spend and hour or so changing it again at 200K without too much worry. It's not as tough to get to as the fuel filter. As long as you pay attention to it and glance at it at each oil change, then it's a minor thing.
 

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