Real time OME caster bushing question (1 Viewer)

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Dec 22, 2003
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Location
VA
I'm in Stresspuppy's garage trying to get OME caster bushing and have a huge problem. Trying to get the rear bolt out of the passanger side control arm on my 94 and the bolt is only half out but is hitting the front flange of the catalytic converter won't come out any further. What do I do next??? Cat bolt's are way to rusted to get out.
 
Here is what we are up against:

img_2567.jpg



Any input would be VERY much appreciated.
 
You might have to cut it and pound out the remaining piece with smaller bolt. Call C-Dan for a replacement ...in the mean time, get you a grade 8 or better bolt and install it from the other side so you want have this problem again...just my 2 cents. HTH.

david
 
davegonz said:
You might have to cut it and pound out the remaining piece with smaller bolt. Call C-Dan for a replacement ...in the mean time, get you a grade 8 or better bolt and install it from the other side so you want have this problem again...just my 2 cents. HTH.

david

That is our backup plan. Thanks for the input.
 
Well that sucks. Still need to put these in on my 94 but hadn't anticipated that one.

edit- sorry no useful info
 
I presume that you have verified that the converter can not be pushed or jacked up (without breaking anythig) the 1/2 inch or so necessary to get the clearance you need?
 
Rich said:
I presume that you have verified that the converter can not be pushed or jacked up (without breaking anythig) the 1/2 inch or so necessary to get the clearance you need?

OR -
Is there any type of exhaust bracket that can be loosened/removed to allow it be pushed up a bit?
 
MoJ said:
OR -
Is there any type of exhaust bracket that can be loosened/removed to allow it be pushed up a bit?

The flange it's hitting is on the front. From there it is a hard pipe to the exhaust manifold, so no play there. There is a bracket on the rear of the cat but that won't help with movement at the front of the cat. It does not have any play to it.

What I'm really wondering about is why I seem to be the only one that has run into this problem.
 
So then unbolt the tranny from the cross member and unbolt the engine mounts and jack the whole works up.
 
Rich said:
So then unbolt the tranny from the cross member and unbolt the engine mounts and jack the whole works up.


Uhhhhhhhhhhhh.............

Since it is in my garage and I am helping, I think I'd be willing to pay for a new bolt instead of that effort!!!

;)
 
StressPuppy said:
Uhhhhhhhhhhhh.............

Since it is in my garage and I am helping, I think I'd be willing to pay for a new bolt instead of that effort!!!

;)

What's the quote in your signature line? Mine should be "I ventured and my cruiser is stranded in StressPuppy's garage AGAIN."
 
Heff:

I haven't done the castors or even tried to pull out the control arms, so I am speaking mainly from intuition rather than experience.

From your picture, it seems that the bolt is barely hitting the front portion of that flange and is mainly being blocked by the cat. side of the flange.

Would there be any possibility of unbolting the mounts of the rear part of the cats/muffler/exhaust tubing just enough to bring it down about an inch or so (of course take out the sensor too)?

You'd probably have to break those rusted bolts on the flange and get two new ones to replace them, but it might be worth a try--sort of lower the entire rear from the cats back of the exhaust system just enough to get the bolt out?

Anyway, just a suggestion from looking at your pic. good luck man--let us know what you finally did to solve the situation.

Best.
-onur
Akron, OH

EDIT: Actually, lookin closer to the pic, maybe just unbolting and lifting the exhaust system up fromthe cats back...worth a shot maybe
 
cut the bolt or grind the head, seems fastest

(Isn't there some sort of trick to these also, like which side you are supposed to turn in the back (opposite in the front) cuz of serrations on the bolt or nut etc...? so you may need a special bolt or nut)
 
Local dealership will have the replacement bolt in tomorrow morning. So the plan is to cut the bolt and replace from the other side.

Thanks everyone for your input.
 
I usually use a real long pry bar and leverage up the cats enough to get the bolt out. I usually put the pry bar on my shoulder and push up with i and wiggle the bolt out. no big deal. No need to cut and replace. the cat does move enough. later robbie
 
Thanks Robbie. Always great to hear from the expert to find out how easy the answer really is.

Do you usually replace the bolt from the opposite side on reassebly or would that be a problem?
 
Last edited:
Heffenoche said:
Thanks Robbie. Always great to hear from the expert to find out how easy the answer really is.

Do you usually replace the bolt from the opposite side on reassebly or would that be a problem?


I'm not robbie, but i would say for sure put the bolt in from the other side. Just seems logical.
 
I guess I am hard on my self and replace it the same way. Just habit to put it back the same way. But I do not see it as a problem installing it the other way. later robbie
 
I installed it the correct way because the nut is non-serated so I'm supposed to tighten that end. If installed backwards you can't get a socket and torq wrench on it.
 

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