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Real Time Help!! Wheel Bearing Seal

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by EricG, Aug 13, 2006.

  1. EricG

    EricG

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    Is there any trick to this?? For the life of me I can't get this thing started, and I'm running out of time & patience!

    FWIW, I replaced the rotors and beat the hub out with a brass hammer using this flange. Did I just FUBAR myself :crybaby:??

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. psfpilot

    psfpilot

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    Are you talking about the seal in the entrance to the axle tube that keeps the differential oil out of the knuckle grease?

    If so, I put a little grease on it and then used the hub nut socket to start it. Then I lightly tapped my way around the perimeter in circles to keep it going in as straight as possible.
     
  3. EricG

    EricG

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    No, I'm talking about the big one in the hub that holds the inside wheel bearing in.
     
  4. psfpilot

    psfpilot

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    IIRC, I used the same technique on that one, too. It just took some patience and very light taps in the proper places to ensure that it went straight in.
     
  5. KliersLC

    KliersLC

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    take a round file lightly to the edges of the hub, lube slightly, and start it with the socket, a piece of wood or a seal installer if you have it. It probably won't go straight in, so once you have one side started, tap gently around the part that isn't in using an uphill motion from either side. be gentle and you will get it...

    Dan
     
  6. turbocruiser

    turbocruiser SILVER Star

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    Eric, sorry just saw this, was out walkin the pooch, try to level the seal as much as possible by hand and then using your hexagonal brass drift lay it across the seal and tap then rotate 90 degrees and tap, etc etc etc. This is one of those times that you want to make minute progress, not alot all at once cause once it's off cocked it wont go in at all. FWIW, not only did I not lube the seal, I always try to completely clean all the surfaces and mine always go in without any fuss, remember make minute progress and "walk" it in evenly. HTH. :cheers:
     
  7. EricG

    EricG

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    Well, I think my beating on the hub to get it out of the brake rotor damaged this flange - you could feel some irregularities in it and no way no how could I get it started. Tried the flat sides of the drift as well as the old bearing race to get it started. So I took a half round file to it to knock off some of the irregularities and put a slight chamfer on it. Got it in then.

    Unfortunately, the other seal was wrecked, so I'm not done tonight. One side is completely done though. This job is taking me FOREVER. Of course, the rain both days didn't help either.

    Any suggestions for what to do for my awesome neighbors who have been letting me borrow a car for almost a week now since my caliper siezed? A full tank of gas is a given of course - maybe get it detailed and a gift certificate somewhere?
     
  8. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    Offer to repack THEIR wheel bearings, and replace THEIR caliper while you lend them your 80. Snicker....

    DougM
     
  9. trainrech

    trainrech SILVER Star

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    Can't offer any suggestions - I did the exact same thing in swapping my rotors. Even using the brass drift I slightly rounded the seal edges. After 3 smashed seals I gave up and handed it to my heavy equipment mechanic who took care of it in about 10 minutes with little more cleaning up of the edge I rounded over.
     
  10. KliersLC

    KliersLC

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    FWIW, I found the best way to seperate the hub was a big screwdriver and hammer on the outboard side. There are already little spaces there for jamming the screwdriver in, and none of the surfaces are machined...

    Dan
     
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