real time help; tightening lugs (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 19, 2004
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52
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395
Location
ventura,ca
i had new tires put on 2 weeks ago tire install dude used an air impact wrench on the lugs and made sure they were good and tight, to say the least. fast forward to today go to sears get a new torque wrench to set the lugs at 109 lbs. as per search here on mud. needed my factory lug wrench w/3' pipe extension to break the lugs loose. now re-tightening the lugs with torque wrench set at 109 lbs. it seems the lugs are barely tight. bad torque wrench:confused: am i that strong:lol: how did your lugs tightness "feel" when you torqued them back on. oh and the torque wrench is the $64.99 (reg. $74.99)twist handle 25-250 lbs. model bag broke on the way out and it hit the tile floor could this affect it?

thanks, cliff
 
Everything is probably fine. But for good measure go get another torque wrench (with someone elses car) and try it again to make sure. 109 ft lbs isn't god awful tight. You can easily go further than that... so yeah what you feel might not feel like enough. They're alloy wheels so you can't go to town on them.
 
Yeah, I agree. I have the same sensation. I always have the feeling they are too loose.
 
when i do not have a torque wrench handy i snug them then go again until i hear them chirp when you give them that last one over...to tight and you risk warping the rotors
 
hi ho off to sears i go.......thanks for the responses & consensus, keep them coming.
 
109 lb??? You have steel rims right?

I run @ 85lbs on my alloys. The tightness is not the issue here. The eveness is the issue.


:cheers:
 
to quote cdan from a 10-4-03 posting,
Rear caliper torque plate x housing 76 lbft.
sliding pins x torque plate 65 lbft.
Lug nuts, steel wheel, all and alloy 91-94 109 lbft
Lug nuts alloy wheel 95+ 76 lbft.
i have a '91 with stock alloy wheels with the conical nuts (conical nuts:eek:)


cheers
 
Abclin;
According to my 1994 Owner's Manual#OM60620U; torque is 108 ft-lb. No spec on wether steel or alloy. I believe This is for the steel wheel, as per the next:

My owner's Manual for 1995, OM60692U specifies steel = 108 ft-lb & alloy = 76 ft-lb.

However; 91-94 alloy wheels have steel insert and conical nuts. 95-97 have flat nuts (washer style), which may make a difference.

There are those that have broken the studs and cracked the wheels by over torquing the lug nuts. I personally run mine at ~75ft-lb. The air gun jockeys can - and do - over torque the lug nuts, over stressing the studs, causing breakage upon lug nut removal.



http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=107

Wheel teck; good info here.

http://www.carbibles.com/tyre_bible.html

http://www.stockcarracing.com/howto/scrp_0504_proper_lug_nut_torque_specs/

http://www.edition719.com/modules.php?name=Content&pa=showpage&pid=1

Discount tire has this listed:
Highlander
2001-05
80 ft-lbs

Land Cruiser
1999-05
100 ft-lbs

Land Cruiser
1994-98
*105 ft-lbs steel

Land Cruiser
1989-93
115 ft-lbs
I don't believe this either.

Pickup 2WD (SRW)
1989-94
100 ft-lbs
Pickup 2WD (DRW)
1989-94
170 ft-lbs
Pickup 4WD
1991-92
80 ft-lbs
Previa/Rav4/Sienna
1991-05
80 ft-lbs
Sequoia
2001-05
85 ft-lbs


...
 
I use a very delicate method...I use a tire iron and go about "that tight" and make sure I walk them on in an even fashion to ensure the lip of the lug goes inside the wheel on each stud. Beyond that I never bother with torque settings. Never had an issue.
 
Curtis;

It (the over-torquing) puts to much force on the rotors; and if one or more studs are torqued somewhat different than the others, that will warp the rotor resulting in a pulsing brake pedal.

...
 

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