Real Time HELP!! Rear Axle Troubles (1 Viewer)

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Well I just finished repacking my rear bearings and now I can't get the passengers side axle in. It stops less than an inch befor the hub. And stupid me, thinking I know it all started the job and didn't re-read my FSM and locked the rear. Well it only calls for the front to be locked when pulling the axles. So is that my problem why the drivers side went in no problem but now the passenger side won't because the locker? Should I try and unlock it??
 
Bear80 said:
Well I just finished repacking my rear bearings and now I can't get the passengers side axle in. Should I try and unlock it??

I always lock mine. You need to leverage/lift it causing the inside end of the shaft to come up while trying to push it home that last inch. Its a tough push....I mash my fingers every time. Also try and rotate it a bit both ways...it will go.
 
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Bear; if no one give u an answer; I'f drop a note to Slee Off Road and see if Robbie (my mechanic) will give u some pointers.

dfm
 
elmariachi said:
I always lock mine. You need to leverage/lift it causing the inside end of the shaft to come up while trying to push it home that last inch. Its a tough push....I mash my fingers every time. Also try and rotate it a bit both ways...it will go.

That's what I was hoping but I tried for awhile and I just couldn't see why the drivers side just sliped in. Thanks, I'll have to watch out for my fingers.
 
can you look down the barrel with a flashlight and see if anythings hanging in the way ?
I have had good luck just spinning the axle a little to get it to slide in but without being there its hard to help much more
 
Did you lock the rear before you removed the shaft? If so, that is the correct procedure. If the rear was not locked when the shaft was pulled you may have a problem.
 
cruiserdan said:
Did you lock the rear before you removed the shaft? If so, that is the correct procedure. If the rear was not locked when the shaft was pulled you may have a problem.


Dan, I think I remember someone saying they did the same thing but used a broom handle to move something up inside the diff. and then was able to install the axle shaft. I am not familiar with the locking diff. so I can't offer any suggestions, I just remember that post.

If the axle only lacks going in less than an inch then its already partially in the side gear isn't it?
 
I might be way off base, because it sounded as if you said the rear WAS locked, before you pulled the shafts, BUT:

If the diff wasnt locked, the "Cog" (part that actually locks the locker) as i call it may have slipped off of the actuator collar and got loose when the shaft was pulled out, or it could be misaligned and not sitting correct on the other cog teeth, but the inner splines will still line up with the shaft.

Here is what the cog looks like (when the locker is engaged), you cant really see it in the pic, but when the locker is DIS-engaged the collar slides away from the diff and the cog teeth wont mess anymore (hence, your unlocked), still easy to line up the splines of the shaft, but the cog wont sit correct with the cogged side of the diff, they are clocked and need to go back a certain way and its a PITA trying to line em up when you cant see em!!

elocker4a.jpg


I went through this when i installed the FZJ80 Elockers in my FJ60. It was a PITA, but when i pulled the 3rd out and locked it, it all made sense and was much easier to figure out. It took me quite awhile to figure out what the hell was going on!

Could be a bitch to re-install with a flashlight and broom, might be easiest to pull the 3rd and do it on a bench!

I am probably not explaining this cleary and i apologize, hopefully someone else can chime in and better explain!

Dan, if your reading this, am i on the right track as this possibly being his problem?
 
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Boston Mangler said:
I might be way off base, because it sounded as if you said the rear WAS locked, before you pulled the shafts, BUT:

If the diff wasnt locked, the "Cog" (part that actually locks the locker) as i call it may have slipped off of the actuator collar and got loose when the shaft was pulled out, or it could be misaligned and not sitting correct on the other cog teeth, but the inner splines will still line up with the shaft.

Here is what the cog looks like (when the locker is engaged), you cant really see it in the pic, but when the locker is DIS-engaged the collar slides away from the diff and the cog teeth wont mess anymore (hence, your unlocked), still easy to line up the splines of the shaft, but the cog wont sit correct with the cogged side of the diff, they are clocked and need to go back a certain way and its a PITA trying to line em up when you cant see em!!

elocker4a.jpg


I went through this when i installed the FZJ80 Elockers in my FJ60. It was a PITA, but when i pulled the 3rd out and locked it, it all made sense and was much easier to figure out. It took me quite awhile to figure out what the hell was going on!

Could be a bitch to re-install with a flashlight and broom, might be easiest to pull the 3rd and do it on a bench!

I am probably not explaining this cleary and i apologize, hopefully someone else can chime in and better explain!

Dan, if your reading this, am i on the right track as this possibly being his problem?

If I'm looking at the mechanism correctly.. if he doesn't have the unit locked then the actuator arm has the hub pulled away from the diff. and the dog teeth are not engaged. This means that the internal splines are not lined up because the axle splines are what keep them in place (same set up as many T-cases).

Seems like if you put the axle in the lock position, installed the shaft as far as it would go, have someone go to the other side and rotate the tire slowly while pushing in on the other axle that the dog teeth would engage and the splines line up...letting the axle seat.
 
Well I had LOCKED the rear. However the FSM only calls for the front to be locked when pulling axles. It does seem that I recall the point here on the forum that the rear should also be locked and the whole broom stick thing.

Anyway a few turns on the drivers side and then the passangers side went in, with a little pressure. I guess it was the case when you can fight something for nearly a hour and then you take a break, come back and it just slips together. Thanks again for the input and help! It's all back together with new rotors and now I have the front pulled apart and tomorrow I get to clean and repack birfs. Now if I had just done that when I put new front rotors on a few months ago, I'd saved my self from doing things twice. :doh:
 
Ok I wanted to give this thread a bump because it helped me out when I was having issues last night working on the rear axle. Had the diff locked, but the short side shaft wouldn't go back in that last inch.

Took a break, a few deep breaths as images of pulling the 3rd were going through my mind. Saw this thread, lifted up the DS rear wheel, rotated it about an inch, and the axle went right in. I guess my lesson there was "there are many more angles out of 360 where the splines won't go opposed to where they will line up."

(On second thought bumping a thread with RTH in the title maynot have been a good idea...:whoops: But some of the info in these old threads is really good :cheers:)
 
Since it got bumped...My 80 isn't locked...but when I was putting the axles back in to my rebuilt third 2 weeks ago, PS axle did same thing. Since no lockers, I knew broomstick wouldn't help.

Didn't use BFH but SFH and light taps, axle started in and snugged up nice.
 

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